damper final
The dimensions of damper are 58 mm circle (rear wheel bearing outer race was used as trace). that is a hair over 2.25 inches. this leaves 3/8ths ring of air at full closed.
according to the equations that go to area of circles..the damper subtracted from the 3 inch opening equals a 49 mm diameter hole while closed. That is 1.9 inches.
the trick is that the blade is 16 gauge, or less than 1/8th inch in width..so its not actually a 49mm hole feeding the whole engine to 3k rpm perfectly, there is another dimension, the thickness of blade. A thick blade would need less diameter so air can get by. It is tricky until trial and error, and AFR readings figures it out. The concept of venturi could also be aiding even more air, hence seeing a tiny space for air to get by..because it is speeding up to get by it. Natural aspiration lives on venturi.
complicated stuff..believe it or not. The AFR gauge has earned itself in more than 3 ways at this point.
the thing I had fun with is adjusting so blade is perpendicular to the 3 inch duct, and it is exactly centered while closed. Being stuff is old, stresses during runtime etc..it was worth the effort to set a corrective shape, regardless of its final outcome. That shaping would be more nature anyway...it earns all its got through nature.
So an answer that can help any old engine..go big duct, add shaping later. A small duct is not going to work, even if you math it. A character of air and the range of temps earth has got...just not possible to set a duct exact as needed. Japanese and the 80s was horrible like that. Tried exact and thought of no errors in storms/temps. Nothing but math, and not enough nature is a loser.
I could add a note about their airbox that holds the filter in the engine bay.. I have that drilled exra, a 2 inch hole on the back side, still gets more cold air than engine bay air.. I did that in 2006. Again the exact sizing error was insane. it has been quite a process. 16 full years..what I have done by eyeball and nature is quite amazing to see on that AFR gauge. "Feel" is an option to tune indeed. I was not even wrong.
The bangshifty surprise for this one..it does not run out at the other end. The engine will have to run out of power for reasons of stroke and displacement. fuel air can do no more..neither can exhaust system or ignition for that subject. Engine is maximized, all with a gentle rheostat for real world at the small end of things. Kinda like a vtec..for air only. It is a big big curve of deep breathe to little after all..

project complete. I was testing progressive vacuum..it is not working. not sure what is going on. when throttle needs to choke, it loses vacuum and the damper closes anyway. definitely helping no matter what source it is hooked up to. It got the oil pumping right away in cold start, found the oil filter was not tight enough as a result. I could smell antifreeze when I took a vacuum hose off the intake..might have a gasket not seated.
No more heat tape, going to make the damper do the work, like original.

the damper does not open all the way, and decided to try it being a 3/4 open. I did not notice anything hindered. I did give it a very large intake..3/4 is enough. This is not a full choke of course..photos in previous post show the throttle blade sitting inside a 3 inch diameter. a little more than a .25 inch lets air by it when fully closed. This is to damper only.

project complete.
It is not so much ashame to treat this like a motorcycle. It was reassuring to see that damper close after shutdown, preserve next start, keep the battle of maines diarhea out of the intake after shutdown. this engine is too small to put up with those things.
A satisfying thought is going with the antique rules by resembling oem function, by whatever means it takes. This avoids custom, but it is still custom.
anyway, this is really a conclusion. All is there in an oem way but over 100% larger. Familiar with the monojet, th eupper and lower flows...the real lesson this past year is a boxer underneath it. Hard earned to hear the runtime being where it is at. this car needs no shit from anybody.
Letting it sit for a few hours, I could not wait to get out there and see how long it would take just to move it back into its parking spot. Was quite a chore for sometime. The damper is in action. If it cannot catch a cough from a cold start..an explosive startup returns the downfall. I then feathered it much like an old school race car, it now accepts that routine many have heard over the years...the damper showing up on the AFR guage as a richer towards stoich condition, even as cold. The little sube is on its way..
parts spanning 6 decades, every continent that makes parts...as well as mentality in evolution.
The dimensions of damper are 58 mm circle (rear wheel bearing outer race was used as trace). that is a hair over 2.25 inches. this leaves 3/8ths ring of air at full closed.
according to the equations that go to area of circles..the damper subtracted from the 3 inch opening equals a 49 mm diameter hole while closed. That is 1.9 inches.
the trick is that the blade is 16 gauge, or less than 1/8th inch in width..so its not actually a 49mm hole feeding the whole engine to 3k rpm perfectly, there is another dimension, the thickness of blade. A thick blade would need less diameter so air can get by. It is tricky until trial and error, and AFR readings figures it out. The concept of venturi could also be aiding even more air, hence seeing a tiny space for air to get by..because it is speeding up to get by it. Natural aspiration lives on venturi.
complicated stuff..believe it or not. The AFR gauge has earned itself in more than 3 ways at this point.
the thing I had fun with is adjusting so blade is perpendicular to the 3 inch duct, and it is exactly centered while closed. Being stuff is old, stresses during runtime etc..it was worth the effort to set a corrective shape, regardless of its final outcome. That shaping would be more nature anyway...it earns all its got through nature.
So an answer that can help any old engine..go big duct, add shaping later. A small duct is not going to work, even if you math it. A character of air and the range of temps earth has got...just not possible to set a duct exact as needed. Japanese and the 80s was horrible like that. Tried exact and thought of no errors in storms/temps. Nothing but math, and not enough nature is a loser.
I could add a note about their airbox that holds the filter in the engine bay.. I have that drilled exra, a 2 inch hole on the back side, still gets more cold air than engine bay air.. I did that in 2006. Again the exact sizing error was insane. it has been quite a process. 16 full years..what I have done by eyeball and nature is quite amazing to see on that AFR gauge. "Feel" is an option to tune indeed. I was not even wrong.
The bangshifty surprise for this one..it does not run out at the other end. The engine will have to run out of power for reasons of stroke and displacement. fuel air can do no more..neither can exhaust system or ignition for that subject. Engine is maximized, all with a gentle rheostat for real world at the small end of things. Kinda like a vtec..for air only. It is a big big curve of deep breathe to little after all..
project complete. I was testing progressive vacuum..it is not working. not sure what is going on. when throttle needs to choke, it loses vacuum and the damper closes anyway. definitely helping no matter what source it is hooked up to. It got the oil pumping right away in cold start, found the oil filter was not tight enough as a result. I could smell antifreeze when I took a vacuum hose off the intake..might have a gasket not seated.
No more heat tape, going to make the damper do the work, like original.
the damper does not open all the way, and decided to try it being a 3/4 open. I did not notice anything hindered. I did give it a very large intake..3/4 is enough. This is not a full choke of course..photos in previous post show the throttle blade sitting inside a 3 inch diameter. a little more than a .25 inch lets air by it when fully closed. This is to damper only.
project complete.
It is not so much ashame to treat this like a motorcycle. It was reassuring to see that damper close after shutdown, preserve next start, keep the battle of maines diarhea out of the intake after shutdown. this engine is too small to put up with those things.
A satisfying thought is going with the antique rules by resembling oem function, by whatever means it takes. This avoids custom, but it is still custom.
anyway, this is really a conclusion. All is there in an oem way but over 100% larger. Familiar with the monojet, th eupper and lower flows...the real lesson this past year is a boxer underneath it. Hard earned to hear the runtime being where it is at. this car needs no shit from anybody.
Letting it sit for a few hours, I could not wait to get out there and see how long it would take just to move it back into its parking spot. Was quite a chore for sometime. The damper is in action. If it cannot catch a cough from a cold start..an explosive startup returns the downfall. I then feathered it much like an old school race car, it now accepts that routine many have heard over the years...the damper showing up on the AFR guage as a richer towards stoich condition, even as cold. The little sube is on its way..
parts spanning 6 decades, every continent that makes parts...as well as mentality in evolution.

) and knew that missing number in electronic games was missing. The car? it was an automatic with no engine braking. 

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