Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Collapse
X
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
The big question is how does it calculate it? Map sensor and speed? or using actual fuel amounts that pass through the injector?
I'm with Rebeldryver on the vacuum gauge thing, I run them in my cars for at least a while. Though my Skylark's mileage versus vacuum pulled currently has me a bit confused.Escaped on a technicality.
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Originally posted by TheSilverBuickThough my Skylark's mileage versus vacuum pulled currently has me a bit confused.
Do you get less vacuum, but better mileage, in overdrive?
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Originally posted by SpiderGearsMangas @ 2.17 a gallon this morning
cut the gas tax and let the people live ! you DC frauds ! none of it fixes the roads anyway
you hear about the congressional gas pump in the capitol parking garage ? NO CHARGEBS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
Resident Instigator
sigpic
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Originally posted by squirrelOriginally posted by TheSilverBuickThough my Skylark's mileage versus vacuum pulled currently has me a bit confused.
Do you get less vacuum, but better mileage, in overdrive?
Escaped on a technicality.
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Hopefully it's not as annoying as the Ford/Lincoln/Mercury factory system.
The problems with the FoMoCo system are: (1) instantaneous fuel economy varies wildly (from 1 m.p.g. at full throttle to 50+m.p.g. when coasting), (2) average fuel economy is over a whole tankful instead of a trip or a rolling average (e.g. the last 10 minutes of driving), (3) sometimes the vehicle still runs when the computer says range to empty is zero.
On the other hand, when that meter says you're getting 5 m.p.g. (even if you know that you'll get 50+ coasting down the other side of the hill) you do have a tendency to lift off.
A better design for a meter would display instantaneous m.p.g., trip average m.p.g. (resets at key off) , and tank average m.p.g. at the same time (with lifetime average available upon demand).
BTW, a vacuum gauge is good only for relative m.p.g. comparisons on the same vehicle. A big vehicle using tall gears, a small engine and low vacuum readings can sometimes score higher m.p.g. than a similar vehicle with a larger engine, lower gears, and high vacuum readings.
Why? Reduced pumping losses and a higher effective compression ratio.
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Since our fleet cars, Lincoln Towncars, spend hours idling. It's hard to say exactly what mpg those cars are getting. The models we buy also have an idle meter which explains whose letting the cars sit and run for days on end. Though, if the car is getting less than 15 mpg overall, it's pretty obvious.
Randal, your issue may be that the rpm your cruising at in the Skylark isn't where the engine combo is most efficient. I get better mpg at 80 plus than cruising at 70 mph in the Impala. You've obvoiusly found the best cruising speed for efficiency in the Centurian, as 23 mpg is fantastic for that car.BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver
Resident Instigator
sigpic
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Originally posted by TheSilverBuickWith the Centurion engine I was pulling 10-12 inHg in OD and got 23mpg consistently, this engine with more compression and pulling 12-15inHg consistently got 17mpg. It pulls a ton of vacuum at idle too despite a slight chop to the idle. There are three things I'm considering plausible causes. First is I did swap rear gears from 3.23's to 3.70's.
Old engine, 10-12 in, 23 mpg, 3.23 gears
New engine, 12-15 in, 17 mpg, 3.70 gears
So, if I understand correctly, you are now getting worse mileage, more vacuum, and you have a steeper final gear ratio.
Like I said....
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Originally posted by squirrelOriginally posted by TheSilverBuickWith the Centurion engine I was pulling 10-12 inHg in OD and got 23mpg consistently, this engine with more compression and pulling 12-15inHg consistently got 17mpg. It pulls a ton of vacuum at idle too despite a slight chop to the idle. There are three things I'm considering plausible causes. First is I did swap rear gears from 3.23's to 3.70's.
Old engine, 10-12 in, 23 mpg, 3.23 gears
New engine, 12-15 in, 17 mpg, 3.70 gears
So, if I understand correctly, you are now getting worse mileage, more vacuum, and you have a steeper final gear ratio.
Like I said...
Scott, the Centurion gets 15mpg highway. When the Centurion's engine was in the Skylark it got 23mpg and loaded the engine up in 5th under 70mph. My old Firebird with 700r4 and 2.73 gears got better mileage at 80mph than 65mph as it was a sweet spot for the engine. The Skylark's current engine doesn't seem to nose over anywhere above 1200rpm. I might go back to 3.23 gears... or such, but I'm not going to start experimenting with gears until I get the EFI tuned up and I know the engine is running lean while cruising.Escaped on a technicality.
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
heh....it's fun to try to explain this....
Randal, think about it in terms of throttle opening. The further open the throttle is, the more efficient the engine is.
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
Originally posted by squirrelheh....it's fun to try to explain this....
Randal, think about it in terms of throttle opening. The further open the throttle is, the more efficient the engine is.Escaped on a technicality.
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
If you're looking for efficiency, then you want to pick a cam that has the right timing for maximum cylinder pressure at the rpm you want it to be efficient at...instead of running rough because it has too much overlap...right?
For a given car speed, gearing the engine to run slower will require more throttle opening, so the engine will run more efficiently (mostly). It increases the load on the engine. You're going the wrong way, decreasing the load and increasing rpm, so that the engine is using a higher percentage of the power it makes just to overcome it's internal friction (pumping loss)
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
Comment
-
Re: Autometer = Ecometer? Yep, It Really is This Bad
I picked a cam with almost no overlap. It was a risky venture I'm not willing to say was wrong until I know I have the fuel and timing right. If I conclude the cam is wrong I'm going to get the small one from DF's and Chad's Carcraft article ;D
The gears were cheap and came with the carrier, so those were a matter of convience and not the ideal set I was going for. I was/am aiming for 3.42's to go with the .64 OD.
I'm targeting 2,000rpm for cruising to guarentee I have sufficient oil pressure when the engine is loaded up climbing hills in OD. 3.42 gears would get me that and load the engine up a bit more. The 3.23's loaded the engine up too much I think (at least the Centurion's engine) as anything under 70mph the rpm's were too low for my liking (and with this engine I'd probably have to worry about pinging).Escaped on a technicality.
Comment
Comment