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  • Need SBF Input

    Back to the Volvo. It went to the dyno today and found out that we need a different ECM so he can get into the tables and really make it do what it can do - place an order w/EZ-EFI and that's handled.

    Now for the problem: It's leaking out the front crank snout again, especially under load like on the dyno. The seal was recently replaced and it was OK for a while but once we loaded it on the dyno it's peeing all over the front of the engine - again. The engine has a breather on one VC and a PCV on the other. So is there some trick set-up for SBF's that handles this issue? Of course, I've thought of a burp tank and that MAY be the solution but I'm wondering if there's some other solution (performance front seal, double lip seal, etc.) or maybe a different balancer? I'd really love to solve this forever.

    THANKS

    Dan

  • #2
    I know nothing of this F in which you speak but......
    Can you get a sleeve that goes over the balancer that "renews" the balancer surface from wear caused by the seal?
    For example, something like this but for your application.
    https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/1...alancer+sleeve

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1989,mustang,5.0l+302cid+v8,1133952,engine,ha rmonic+balancer+repair+sleeve,5408


    Or is that even close to the issue?
    Last edited by 68scott385; July 10, 2018, 02:45 PM.
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...n-block-wanted

    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...-Blue-Turd(le)

    Comment


    • #3
      If you pull the breather off the valve cover - can you feel a lot of pressure blowing out the hole?
      Another possible - on the BBF (385 series) engines, they used a slinger - large thin washer that goes on the crank snout between the timing gear and the spacer that goes into the seal. I believe its purpose is to block direct air flow to the seal lip,


      Last edited by cstmwgn; July 10, 2018, 04:52 PM.

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      • #4
        I'll have to look into that oil slinger for a SBF. I don't remember if I installed one there or not (I'll take a look back at my pics) but if not that's something to try assuming there's room for it in this engine. This is the third time that seal has been changed and it's still losing oil.

        I DO need to check for pressure in the pan but probably should have done that on the dyno under load. It doesn't seem too bad during normal street driving but loses a lot under heavy load which is, after all, kind of the whole idea with this engine. I'm just hoping this is a more or less common issue with these and that there's a cure out there.

        Dan

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        • #5
          I am having a hard time following. Is the timing cover to balancer seal leaking? Is it centered? Did you use the dowels? Is it coming out around the balancer bolt. I nomally put a little dab of rtv on the key. Could it be the oil pan gasket? Just thinking out loud....

          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
          1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

          PB 60' 1.49
          ​​​​​​

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          • #6
            It sure seems to be the balancer seal. I was hoping there might be a super-spiffy ready made fix for these. Remember, everything is new here including the balancer, etc. I'll take all the thinking out loud I can get!

            Dan

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            • #7
              Dan

              Again, I don't know SBFs but on the BBFs, when you are replacing the seal or installing the front cover. After you have installed the new seal in the cover and are reinstalling it with new gaskets you loosely put the screws/bolts in the cover and then slide the spacer into the front seal and sort of giggle the cover a little to let it settle in the center of the seal. Please forgive me if this is too basic but I really don't know of any special magic for front seal leaks. It sounds like crankcase pressure but with everything new it is hard to imagine what might be the issue.

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              • #8
                Has the block been line bored? If so you may need to sleeve the balancer BIGGER than stock because line boring moves the crank centerline. At this point sleeving the balancer looks to be the only way out anyway so why not give it a shot? Maybe look at some different brands of main seal to see if some are made "tighter"? Plus you could be seeing A LOT more blow by as your rings seat up so it MIGHT just go away by itself. Ring seating can take a long time depending on how the bore behaves during engine assembly, ring hardness and bore finish.. Remember all the voodoo around torque plates? Guys even went into manifold torque plating and temperature normalizing while boring to avoid a long wearsome break in, less parts life and of course less power.

                Of course I'm not suggesting anything really dumb like the main seal being in backwards.

                You can change a main seal in the car so I'd say roll the dice, put some MILES on it and then STILL consider crankcase evac as is is a power adder anyway.
                My hobby is needing a hobby.

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                • #9
                  One possibility is that the rings simply aren't seated yet - the engine has less than 100 miles on it at this point. I know that Blueprint uses all the spiffy techniques and equipment so it's a high probability that the engine was machined right in the first place. You may well be right that all we need to do is wait and drive it.

                  Dan

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                  • #10
                    So what did it put down on the dyno?
                    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                    PB 60' 1.49
                    ​​​​​​

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Not a simple answer. Right now we're at 304 rear wheel BUT..... we found out that the ECU that comes with the self-tuning EZ-EFI doesn't allow access into the tables, just the ability to request different targets based on the O2 sensor readings. However, FAST DOES offer an ECU with full access and Dick decided to order that sucker - it's on the way. The dyno guy is positive that there's a lot more power (as well as a better idle and other refinements) to be had once his laptop can talk to the core of the ECU. Lots more tuning is to be done.

                      Randy (the dyno guy) will call me when he has the new ECU and he has time to dig into this more.

                      Dan

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                      • #12
                        Dan,
                        The 1990 Mustang service manual has instructions to align the oil seal on the 5 Liter. Install the seal in he timing cover using a tool that slips over the crank snout to align the seal before you bolt the cover down. The diagrams also do not show an oil slinger.

                        Nick

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                          Randy (the dyno guy) will call me when he has the new ECU and he has time to dig into this more.
                          The typical Limbo we all get stuck in at some point or another ....

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                          • #14
                            I'm going to send a note to Blueprint and get their input. Bet they have some experience here.

                            Dan

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                            • #15
                              You can try a quick and dirty thrust bearing check by prying the balancer back and forth gently.
                              If it is 1/8 inch or more they will leak, i don't know the spec but somewhere around .005-.010 is normal.

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