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new to me, but not "brand new"...brand used?

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  • Originally posted by Monster View Post

    ... got any pics ?
    that was when i was 13 or 14, before i had a license and mom was teaching me how to drive off road.
    heck, pagers and beepers werent even around yet, nor cell phones much less a phone with a camera...
    im 48 now so that was.....34-35 years ago?

    glad mom taught me off road, sliding in mud/sand etc means when you got road everythings easy--
    and when/if it does slip-n-slide you just steer into it a get on the throttle.

    wish you could talk to uncle mike, ask him about that time out in hana where he got stuck 2/3 of
    the way up a muddy hillside-and mom jumped in his truck, backed down and across a super narrow
    bridge with no rails, did a 'rockford turn', rocketed back across the bridge and up the hill in reverse--
    and made it to the top the first shot. he still talks about that at every family get together, it was spectacular.

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    • Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
      uncle mike .. got stuck 2/3 of the way up a muddy hillside - mom jumped in his truck, backed down and across a super narrow bridge with no rails, did a 'rockford turn', rocketed back across the bridge and up the hill in reverse and made it to the top the first shot .. it was spectacular.
      Your Mom friggin' ROCKS !

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      • Originally posted by RockJustRock View Post
        When the aftermarket thinks the same as you, that is usually some good thinking. Considering he already did the axles and drivetrain it wouldn't surprise me if the other owner beat you to it though. Usually if they make it a guy like that takes it.

        https://www.roughcountry.com/frame-s...IaAhTIEALw_wcB

        Click image for larger version

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        yes, i put that kit in my last one 25 yrs ago, luckily this one isnt cracked--i dont think the po
        ever took it of road. i may install that kit as preventitive maintainance on this one to prevent
        it from cracking in the future.

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        • I was thinking to stiffen the frame for that ride quality and tractability you seek while driving across sand, dirt, rocks, trees, small animals, children, larger animals and volcanic residue. Perish the thought of un-necessary bounces. The owner of "Bouncing Betty" seems to LIKE the extra bounces, to each his own. But yeah, when I Googled "K5 Blazer ladder bars" I got zip, zilch, nada. When I Googled "K5 Blazer frame" it suggested "boxing kit?". Strange that flex is more of an issue on the shorter wheelbase, but it looks like many people feel it is.
          My hobby is needing a hobby.

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          • Originally posted by RockJustRock View Post
            I was thinking to stiffen the frame for that ride quality and tractability you seek while driving across sand, dirt, rocks, trees, small animals, children, larger animals and volcanic residue. Perish the thought of un-necessary bounces. The owner of "Bouncing Betty" seems to LIKE the extra bounces, to each his own. But yeah, when I Googled "K5 Blazer ladder bars" I got zip, zilch, nada. When I Googled "K5 Blazer frame" it suggested "boxing kit?". Strange that flex is more of an issue on the shorter wheelbase, but it looks like many people feel it is.

            'bounce' is ok, and to be expected in a lifted 4x4 with stiff springs and big ballooney tires.
            wheelhop, however, is NOT ok--it breaks parts. everything from wheel studs to axleshafts,
            spider gears, ring & pinions, ujoints and driveshafts, in extreme cases it can break springs
            or tailshaft housings or even crack your frame.

            theres a reason why im so paranoid about porpoising, as noted these stubby blazers are
            famous for it--and despite the HD axles, etc, i still want to minimize the possibilities of
            the dreaded hoppies--and the broken parts that can go along with it....

            im going to try the 48" ladderbars simply because--
            A) i have them already, free is a nice price.
            B) they are known to work stopping wheelhop in street/drag cars-why not a 4x4 too?
            C) easy to mount or unmount if they suck.
            D) see (A) above.....

            im still thinking bout the front, pinion goes down/right side plants on the front axle during
            hard throttle (opposite of the rear where pinion climbs and left side plants) so i have to
            figure out something on that end too...there ARE enough brackets to run 4 shocks per
            wheel on the front, if it ends up being a damping issue....and i may double up the rears too.
            Last edited by fatguyzinc; May 18, 2019, 07:30 PM.

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            • wheeeeeeee!!!! finally going home 10pm tonight. its been a L-O-O-O-O-N-G 3 weeks here
              in maui as moms indentured servant. so tomorrow after i pickup my boy from school we
              are rolling under the war wagon to look at how we are going to mount the 48" ladders.

              the front is a good sized 3/4 hole heim, rear bolts around axle with giant u-bolts but im
              thinking once we get the mounting squared away and a few test runs to see how it works
              if everything is copacetic then i may ring weld the rear to the housing as well.

              so happy im going home! love my mom and would do anything for her but D@MN she
              drives me nuttier than squirrel sh@t...........

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              • took awhile--got stuck in the "EBESBM" (every body elses sh@t but mine) loop again--
                but the 48" ladder bars are painted and sorta in. still gotta cut/weld the forward mounts
                and its 9:30pm here now so no cutting metal...till tomorrow. i hope. unless EBESBM
                rears its ugly head again.....


                Click image for larger version

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                • YESSSS......... got the fronts welded up, they are IN !!!

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                  • Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
                    YESSSS......... got the fronts welded up, they are IN !!!
                    Where is the road test result report

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                    • Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

                      Where is the road test result report


                      cant drive legally yet, plates still in storage. hopefully soon....

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                      • and somehow the stars lined up again, and i managed to install
                        the trailer hitch on the rear frame--what a pain, carriage bolts
                        and broached plates you gotta fish thru the frame for the forward
                        mounting points. 1st one took me 4 freaking hours..........

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                        • somehow the gods are smiling down on me--got a few free hours today too,
                          so i taped off the lower dash/glovebox and sprayed em metallic blue to match
                          everything else. (the truck was originally silver, and though they did the door
                          jambs and such blue to match paintjob, the dash was still silver.)

                          pics soon.... and crossing fingers i get to work on the 55 tomorrow-at least,
                          thats the plan.........

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                          • Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post


                            B) they are known to work stopping wheelhop in street/drag cars-why not a 4x4 too?
                            That when used as a pair they allow no body roll makes them a dragstrip-only thing though. Picture a hundred-percent of your effective roll stiffness, all on one end of the car. In the rain it will want to swap ends on corners, the stresses from street use can tear them right off axle housings, I've seen it. You can use a single, as I did on the Cherokee front and it works well, which will allow roll but differing arcs between it and the leaf springs or any other axle locators still has to be accounted for and with leaf springs it's impossible without pivoting mounts between the springs and axle housing.*

                            *Which I may yet do on the Chero rear, wheel hop at that end remains a problem at the top of a hill despite other measures taken.



                            The Chall uses ladder bars for simplicity (w/ a transverse-leaf) but is a smooth-dry-surface-only car.
                            Last edited by Loren; June 1, 2019, 06:42 AM.
                            ...

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                            • Originally posted by Loren View Post

                              That when used as a pair they allow no body roll makes them a dragstrip-only thing though. Picture a hundred-percent of your effective roll stiffness, all on one end of the car. In the rain it will want to swap ends on corners, the stresses from street use can tear them right off axle housings, I've seen it. You can use a single, as I did on the Cherokee front and it works well, which will allow roll but differing arcs between it and the leaf springs or any other axle locators still has to be accounted for and with leaf springs it's impossible without pivoting mounts between the springs and axle housing.*

                              *Which I may yet do on the Chero rear, wheel hop at that end remains a problem at the top of a hill despite other measures taken.



                              The Chall uses ladder bars for simplicity (w/ a transverse-leaf) but is a smooth-dry-surface-only car.



                              with giant 7/8 through bolt heims and delrin bushed shackles at the fwd mount point, it moves fine.
                              i jacked it up about8-9 inches and the other tire was still on the ground, seems fine to me. maybe
                              not as good as "normal", but everything is a compromise anyway-- more tire means more lift so
                              easier rollovers, less gas mileage, harder to climb into, etc...and the list goes on and on.

                              as long as it doesnt break and helps with the porpoising ill be happy.

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                              • didnt get much done, EBESBM again--but i DID manage to hop in and change the steering wheel
                                to a 13.5" diameter (minimum size per hawaii law) as the one one there was a 12"........

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