And pics after powder coating. This whole project is overkill I know, but what the heck.....
Here you can see why I thought I might lose the trailer if I didn't take action. Note the pits in the metal. I think I caught it in time for the structure to be OK but some of the pits are pretty deep.
More to come as I reassemble everything but I have a couple of projects ahead of that.
Dan
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Trailer Redeux
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Originally posted by Russell View PostSome may say that's working smarter not harder. I am sure you will end up with a better trailer doing it your way. When I was looking at used trailers sometimes the price between new a used is small. Sell the one you have. Put the money you would spend to fix yours and the money from the sale and go tow home a new one.
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Some may say that's working smarter not harder. I am sure you will end up with a better trailer doing it your way. When I was looking at used trailers sometimes the price between new a used is small. Sell the one you have. Put the money you would spend to fix yours and the money from the sale and go tow home a new one.
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Not worried about the springs - they're heat treated at several times the 450 temp.
And yes, I went back over and pulled the hubs and brakes. I was hoping to be lazy but it was prudent to strip the rest of the rolling stock. The bad news - I started stripping this stuff and in the middle of it we had a localized downpour! So I got wet which really wasn't a big deal but I DO get to gripe about it.
Now then - they're baking the trailer and I would have to scuff the whole thing and then apply paint that I would have had to buy. Turns out it's only a couple of hundred more to just have them coat it (silver was my choice) and save the hassle. So that's what I'm having done. It'll look like the world's heaviest aluminum trailer.
So laziness and old age trumps frugal.
Dan
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Originally posted by DanStokes View Post... To my surprise they'll bake at the trailer at 450*F as part of the undercoating process...
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wow, I'm glad I did mine at home...crappy blasting job, and sprayed with rustoleum.
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Trailer is at Area 51, the sandblaster/powder coater here in town. To my surprise they'll bake at the trailer at 450*F as part of the undercoating process - this is both good and bad. The primer will be TOUGH but I may need new brake magnets as I'm not sure what will happen to the wires. If I had known this I would have removed the magnets but live and learn, I guess. I may have to replace the wheel seals, too - I'll see how they hold up.
They expect to have the trailer back to me on Friday but I let them know that there's no hurry as I really don't need it 'till September.
Dan
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Back on the trailer today. It's going to get blasted and primed on Monday so I need to get everything in order by then so I can just hook up and tow. So pics of yesterday and today's work.
Here's a rear view. Note that the retaining plate (I guess I'll call it) across the intersection of the flat deck and the beavertail, is now a bolt-on. It really doesn't have to do much so I think a few screws will get the job done. If you look closely you'll note that there are now studs from the center of the retaining plate thru the gap between the 2 sections of channel. After the decking is reinstalled the bottom of the studs each get a big washer and a nylox nut to hold the length of the plate and the planks in place. (Stiney - those planks will be CCA treated.)
Also shown in this pic is the extension of the license plate mount. The plate kept getting bent up because it was just mounted at the top with 2 screws and the bottom of the plate was hanging loose under the trailer frame. Note that the mount area now extends below the frame and here is further proof that I'm a better grinder than I am a weldor but it's plenty stout.
Side view of the retaining plate. I'm using SS faseners (as/per usual where possible). Sometime in about 2044 some future dude will thank me for my clever design when s/he redecks the trailer again.
Another view of the studs, hoping to show how this works. The downward sections were as provided by the factory. Then I welded the angled sections on, screwed in the long studs, angled said studs so that they fit thru the slots between the channels, then installed the retaining plate. Looks like it's going to work groovily.
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You want the absolute best wood treatment - Chromium Copper Arsenate is it.
Grandpa and I applied it to several hay wagons and trailers we rebuilt in the 80's.
CCA, that's the stuff. Green tint and super effective. Simply brushed on (not pressure treated, though that used to be how it was done) it allowed a wooden hay wagon to survive stored outdoors in Ohio for 40 years. I used it on my ramps for my green trailer at the same time - they still look like new 30 years later.
Of course it may be a tad difficult to find nowadays. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromated_copper_arsenate .
Quote from WikiPedia - Nevertheless, CCA remains a popular and economical option to make perishable timbers, such as plantation-grown pine, viable for applications like poles, piling, retaining structures, etc.
The stuff makes PINE viable for pilings? Convinced yet?
Last edited by STINEY; June 27, 2019, 07:10 AM.
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Originally posted by Monster View PostNot sure why you keep mentioning stain, but have you considered coating each board with undercoat before assembly?
also leave air gaps between the boards so it can expand and contract... 2 screws per board per cross member,...
pressure treat is not as strong as regular wood (nor does it stay straight when exposed to the sun)... not often a problem but again, a consideration.
I used weather seal to keep the moss off - these boards get slick when wet... moss doesn't helpLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; June 27, 2019, 06:36 AM.
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I priced the KDAT lumber and MAN is that pricey! It's more than 2X the price of treated. The treated lumber that came on the trailer has lasted at least 25 years and is still good enough that I considered reinstalling it so I'm good with that. I'll just have to let it dry out a bit before I seal it but that's no big deal.
Steve, any ideas on a product to seal it? I'm thinking Thompson's Water Seal or similar - any input?
Dan
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