Looks pretty nice. Gonna spruce up the rims now as well? If those are 5 lug it’s likely that Ford Ranger wheels are a bolt on.
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No plans to do much with the wheels at this time other than clean them up. The spare is currently on the RF so I'll switch that so all 4 wheels on the ground are similar in appearance. I already have too much $$ into it and new deck boards will pretty much finish it for now. I may add brakes on the front axle but the bank account may require waiting on that.
Dan
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Looks good!
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Hey sorry forgot getting back with you. A lot going on. I just got a job and am moving back east. Get this.... the new job satellite structure tech. Yup space mechanic!
Regular pressure treat lumber has to dry out before you are supposed to put on any kind of coating on it. If you noticed the underside of the old boards was a lot nicer. If you can keep water beading on the top it extends the life of the deck substantially. Some of the deck stains have uv protection also. Sherwin willams semi-solid and opaque deck coats come to mind. If it were mine I would let it dry out until spring. Pressure wash it. Let it dry 24 hr and coat it with linseed oil. Thompson's will also work but don't use the water based stuff.
Are you going to paint it to match Mutt and the dodge?
steveWell I have stopped buying stuff for cars I don't own. Is that a step in the right or wrong direction?
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Note the pics in post #45 (back a page). It's silver, looking like the world's heaviest aluminum trailer. I'm going to stripe it in black separated by a teal strip so it'll sorta match the race colors if one looks carefully enough. I'll post pics when I get back on it.
I was thinking of the S-W stuff, probably in a pickled oak sort of color (in other words, a very light grey) so it more or less matches the trailer frame. Good tip on the pressure wash - the treatment chemicals no doubt will leach out and sit on top so they ought to get rinsed away. I went light in color so it isn't so hot to touch after a day of sitting in the sunlight and I can already tell it works. I thought it was my original idea but there were quite a few silver trailers on the Salt so evidently great mimes think alike (can you imagine me as a mime???!!!).
Where are you moving? Sounds like you'll be workin' for Da Man!
DanLast edited by DanStokes; August 23, 2019, 07:51 PM.
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Originally posted by rightpedal View PostHey sorry forgot getting back with you. A lot going on. I just got a job and am moving back east. Get this.... the new job satellite structure tech. Yup space mechanic!
Regular pressure treat lumber has to dry out before you are supposed to put on any kind of coating on it. If you noticed the underside of the old boards was a lot nicer. If you can keep water beading on the top it extends the life of the deck substantially. Some of the deck stains have uv protection also. Sherwin willams semi-solid and opaque deck coats come to mind. If it were mine I would let it dry out until spring. Pressure wash it. Let it dry 24 hr and coat it with linseed oil. Thompson's will also work but don't use the water based stuff.
Are you going to paint it to match Mutt and the dodge?
steve
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Oh... I thought the silver was primer. Yea that will look snazzy with some striping. For the most part staining it immediate will be ok. I still say if you have the patience, wait a bit. Your going to get some bleed and flaking at the knots and some grain lines. Pack the lumber tight, fresh treated 2x6 will shrink up to 1/4 inch.
Nope..... Private industry. Not saying much more till I know what I can say. The job is north of DC so back to Annapolis area. I start 9/3. So yea drag week will be during my second week of work. not sure if I can peal away for it. Too bad because my brother lives right next to buds creek. I might hit the VA venue on Sunday. Are you going to be there?
I hadn't really intended on hijacking your trailer thread......
Well I have stopped buying stuff for cars I don't own. Is that a step in the right or wrong direction?
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Steve do you still have the same number?
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Got back on the trailer today on probably my last day in the shop for a while. I wanted to get the wiring reinstalled before I forgot the whole concept though I did mark stuff reasonably well.
Shot from the rear. Sort of a no-brainer to pop the lights back in, etc. but I also decided to run the main harness thru plastic (read "non rusting") conduit. It worked out to use a 5' piece ahead of where the side markers hook up, allow those wires to escape the conduit, and then run another 5' piece from there back. Once the floor is installed I'll add more supports so the plastic won't sag.
An attempt to better show the conduit placement. Here you can see that I ran more conduit from side to side for the right side marker lights. From the factory all the wire was run thru welded-on lock washers that I had to twist off the get the harness loose. This way the wiring can be serviced if needed at some point and I didn't have to weld on my new powder coat.
From the front with the break-away battery and switch installed. I was fuzzy on the wiring for that but a quick look online refreshed my memory. Etrailer.com has lots of vids on such topics.
And the factory installed metal conduit w/box. With this the wiring is done except for 1 redundant ground that hooks up inside the box in this pic - I'm known for grounding the heck out of everything.
Last edited by DanStokes; September 28, 2019, 07:41 PM.
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