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  • Rustoleum roll forums? active threads?

    Short story, looking for info re: primer and prep for Rustoleum roll on paint jobs. Hoping someone can point me to a group or forum or a thread that is current. Doesn't have to be BS forum.

    .

    Long story, I have health issues that keep me from spraying my beater. I'm in an HOA so even if I wanted to spray it just wouldn't be worth the drama. Plus!, my garage is tiny, I have no room for compressor etc.
    Last but certainly not least its a rusty old Corvair, which I like but not worth shelling out big bucks to have a pro shoot. (fixed income) I do like having a project its good therapy.

    .
    Be glad to list my questions here if any interest is shown. I get its frowned upon by many. I would have left it in the all too cool "Patina" but it looked more crappy than cool survivor.
    So I'll sit back and see if I get any reply's. Won't be a problem if I don't just thought I'd put it out there.
    I should mention, I did add a post to the huge Mopart thread. No response. Most of what I find is really old.Except the FB group which is not too active and mostly about bomb cans. Hasn't been helpful. Nice people though.
    Last edited by nonhog; March 2, 2021, 03:07 PM.

  • #2
    I brush painted an old truck with rustoleum about 10 years ago, it was a lot of work, and it came out with brush lines visible...which was fine with me. A roller would be a lot faster and give a smoother finish. If you plan on trying to get it glossy, and looking sort of like a "real" paint job, I expect you'll have your work cut out for you, and you won't be totally happy with the results anyways.

    I would leave the outside of the car alone, it looks fine to me. My brother's been driving a 64 Monza for the past several years, it looks worse than yours, and he has no desire to paint it, at all. Fortunately today, you can get away with that, most folks seem to dig old cars that look like old cars.
    My fabulous web page

    "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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    • #3
      I've done it for the box of a truck before. That was about 10-11 years ago, looks fairly rough again now (granted it's been parked outside and hasn't moved for the last few years). Looked decent at the time, the one thing that I did do was thin the paint 50/50 or so with mineral spirits and apply lots of coats with a hard foam roller. No roller marks, no runs, etc. Does it shine like a base/clear paint? nope. But was it presentable? Yup.

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      • #4
        Thinning with acetone also works to bring gloss and flow to Rustoleum. I spray painted my car trailer with it several years ago, and it still looks ok, but the gloss is long gone...since it sits outside in the sun.

        And I've read that you can add a catalyst and get it to really pop, and last longer too. It's dangerous stuff, so be careful if you do.
        My fabulous web page

        "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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        • #5
          Have you looked at: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ba...rimer-kit.html
          There are UTube videos on this product.

          Nick

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          • #6
            Originally posted by nickleone View Post
            Have you looked at: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ba...rimer-kit.html
            There are UTube videos on this product.

            Nick
            I have and I am not opposed to it other than its expensive. I feel I can get SPI for a lot less. Only thing is treating the rust is not playing well with SPI epoxy. They (SPI) has great service, they said rolling it is just fine. Yet to ask Eastwood about using Rust Mort. I actually am considering using the red oxide SPI primer and leaving it and not covering it with Rustoleum. Also considering using Rustoleum primer/surfacer because whatever I do I will have some block sanding to do!

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            • #7
              Let me make the obvious suggestion. As long as you do some prep (that's where they skimp) a trip to MAACO really isn't a bad way to go. Last time I checked they use Sherwin Williams (yes, they make car paint too) and it really isn't all that bad. Some franchises are better than others so you'll want to ask around but if you make the prep your part of the project you get the warm and fuzzy feels of a project well done and should get a decent result, much better than a roller job.

              Dan

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              • #8
                Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                Let me make the obvious suggestion. As long as you do some prep (that's where they skimp) a trip to MAACO really isn't a bad way to go. Last time I checked they use Sherwin Williams (yes, they make car paint too) and it really isn't all that bad. Some franchises are better than others so you'll want to ask around but if you make the prep your part of the project you get the warm and fuzzy feels of a project well done and should get a decent result, much better than a roller job.

                Dan
                Hi Dan,
                Somehow I missed much of your finishing the Volvo. Was just catching up today a little bit. Sadly our V8 Volvo caught fire and was too big a project for me to fix. I did check with the local Maaco and haven't ruled that out. In Tucson the cheap job starts at 1K not bad but even the Maaco guy said I wouldn't be happy with it. More like $3500 which is cheap these days. I got to get it straight first. At my new slow rate of movement that could be awhile. Lots of time to decide. That being said I have seen a few really nice rolled paint jobs.

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                • #9
                  I would suggest checking YouTube for rolling/brushing info. I know there is much info regarding spraying..

                  I sprayed my Falcon with Rustoleum semi gloss white to preserve it until I can build it.
                  The car had previously been stripped and primed, but was surface rusting again. Patina in my part of the world is the nieghbour of "rotting into the ground".

                  I thinned with acetone and sprayed. Rustoleum/Tremclad does not smell like automotive paint, your neighbours may not even notice.

                  If you're set on brushing, im certin you could polish and smooth it. It's your car, you will probably like it more!
                  Check out the "Professional" super bright colours.
                  1997 Ranger 5.0L HO, GT40 heads/tubular intake, 65mm TB, 1.7rr, B303, Tri-Y headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster mufflers, T5 trans, Tri-Ax shifter, CenterForce Dual Friction clutch, 8.8 Traction Lok 3.55 gears, Cobra 13" front brakes, Cobra 11.65" rear discs.
                  1997 Mustang GT
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                  • #10
                    It does not look too bad in my opinion -and I can't believe Rustoleum and ScotchBrite pads would look better- several years ago I saw something about a COMET cleanser wash on old paint.Might be worth doing a trial spot. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE
                    Phil / Omaha

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                    • #11
                      I would not mess with it, unless you are sure you can make it look really nice. But then, it'll be just another boring restored corvair. At least now it has some character.
                      My fabulous web page

                      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by nonhog View Post

                        Hi Dan,
                        Somehow I missed much of your finishing the Volvo. Was just catching up today a little bit. Sadly our V8 Volvo caught fire and was too big a project for me to fix. I did check with the local Maaco and haven't ruled that out. In Tucson the cheap job starts at 1K not bad but even the Maaco guy said I wouldn't be happy with it. More like $3500 which is cheap these days. I got to get it straight first. At my new slow rate of movement that could be awhile. Lots of time to decide. That being said I have seen a few really nice rolled paint jobs.
                        The Volvo is sorta done. Dick's been having annoying issues mostly centered around the EZ EFI of which I am not a fan. He's thinking of switching to Holley or FiTech but he's having some health issues and it's moving slowly. Sorry to hear about your engine fire.

                        On the MAACO job - when did they get to full price? If you were close I'd put you on to the guy who sprayed Truck the last time. Not show quality (who needs that?) but a nice job for $2K including materials, base/clear. And he's a nice guy who is not a drunk. If you ask around you might find somebody like that in your area - I found Harry thru our local auto paint store.

                        Dan

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                        • #13


                          this is current. LOL no going back now.
                          Last edited by nonhog; March 3, 2021, 12:43 PM.

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                          • #14
                            well...it was a nice looking car....

                            My fabulous web page

                            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by squirrel View Post
                              well...it was a nice looking car....
                              Not up close.
                              I tried addressing posts earlier but kept getting security token missing,whatever that means?

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