Unitized Wheel Hubs; mixing brands

[CTX-SLPR]

Howdy,

Been chasing a brake squeal on my wife's daily driver, a 2012 Genesis, Jenny. Finally localized it down to failing wheel hubs. I thought it was just one of them so only bought one but it turns out it's both of them. I got a Timken bearing but was disappointed that they're now "using selected suppliers" for the unit vs. making them on their own like they used to. I'm thinking of using an SKF on the other side and I doubt it really makes a difference but wanted to get thoughts before I fork out the $125 at RockAuto. Price is within $5 of each other so it's more just seeing if the SKF is local made vs. subcontracted out.

Thanks

[SuperBuickGuy]

the only time unitized bearings matter is where there are high loads on the part. On your 'burb, absolutely buy the best USA or German made you can find. On a DD car - it really doesn't matter. With that said, if you are planning on cutting the fenders and putting some 31" tires on it to go run a Gambler 500, then sure, buy the best - then you can sell them when the rest of the car fails.

[Dan Barlow]

My burb runs thru them about every 6 months on the left side after replacing everything myself and having it professionally aligned . Which is a 50% improvement because it was going thru both sides at that rate . I think the left ones problem is something hanging up in that bank of anti- lock stuff on the driver inner fender cause I've already replaced the calipers, lines , and hoses . All that said , I think mixing them will be fine .I really haven't found much difference in any of them .

[CTX-SLPR]

Ordered up an SKF, we'll see if it's any improvement on the distributed supplier model of Timken.

[SuperBuickGuy]

My burb runs thru them about every 6 months on the left side after replacing everything myself and having it professionally aligned . Which is a 50% improvement because it was going thru both sides at that rate . I think the left ones problem is something hanging up in that bank of anti- lock stuff on the driver inner fender cause I've already replaced the calipers, lines , and hoses . All that said , I think mixing them will be fine .I really haven't found much difference in any of them .

professionally aligned.... never f**king ever again. My Colorado - 1" toe out by the "professionals".... oh and complained it pulled right.... so they put all the camber in the right wheel... guess what, didn't fix it. nice job Les Schwab... jerks. I aligned it, works perfect

[Dan Barlow]

Mine was aligned by the guy everyone that is into cars says is the best . My tires are wearing on the inside edge a little tops of the tires appear to lean in a bit . I'm done fooling with it . If I keep it or the chassis , I'll solid axle swap it .

[Loren]

Lifted IFS (i.e. excessively angled control arms) especially with positive-offset wheels will always be problematic. Our stock-height '91 Chevy 4x4 with its' junk drivetrain was at-least an excellent-driving truck w/ no front end issues. I aligned our solid-axle Cherokee by eye, didn't even take a measurement, ten years ago. The tires will all rot before they wear funny. So far so good just buying whatever unit bearings, lucky. I've always been suspicious of those things but they do beat what you used to have to deal with, with front drives.

[CTX-SLPR]

Turned out the rear clunking was a loose swaybar end link. Tightened it up and no more clunks over bumps.
Still replacing the other hub, just not on as quick of a schedule as while it's wearing out, rotor wear pattern shows the disc not running true to the caliper and it squeals in the mornings, it's not a concern about it coming apart or wearing out other components.