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  • #16
    I put a big window AC unit in the shop - problem solved. It doesn't get frosty but it cools it quite a bit and pulls a lot of humidity out of the air. I had to replace it a couple of years ago but it was still worth the $350 or whatever. I'm old and don't have to be uncomfortable.

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    • #17
      When I built my shop I put in a P-TAC unit (think Holiday Inn) and made provisions for a second one. I'm with you Dan, I don't have to work in the heat or cold anymore.
      Ed, Mary, & 'Earl'
      HRPT LongHaulers, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.


      Inside every old person is a young person wondering, "what the hell happened?"

      The man at the top of the mountain didn't fall there. -Vince Lombardi

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      • #18
        No AC in the garage. Got a lot of other Projects to tend to with it first, I’ll probably start a thread on it soon.

        Come to think of it, no AC in the house either.
        I'm probably wrong

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        • #19
          Oh looky what I found. There's a plate welded to the side of the clutch pedal that makes contact with a limit switch when the clutch is pressed all the way down. Without looking it up I'm figuring that's the interlock switch for the engine will crank if the clutch is mashed in all the way. Somebody had wrapped a whole stack of garbage around that plate with electrical tape so the pedal arm would contact the switch sooner. Maybe somebody had REAL short legs and couldn't mash the clutch all the way to the floor. Or maybe that's a Ford factory answer to something. Now I don't know whether to leave it that way or not, I've been driving Red that way since the day I got him.

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          Charter member of the Turd Nuggets

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          • #20
            I'd say yes.

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            • #21
              AKA Neutral Safety Switch.
              Car won't start/crank until clutch pedal Is fully depressed.

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              • #22
                I'd leave it
                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                • #23
                  Gyah. Just wow. Like, Shazam. That stack of garbage on the clutch pedal has been bugging me, there has to be a "why." And there sure is.

                  That switch is momentary contact normal open. When the clutch pedal is pressed all the way down to the physical stop the switch is still open, it needs pressing down some more to close it. That stack of garbage is soft, it depresses the switch plunger the rest of the way down without tearing the switch off of its mounting. If that's a factory fix for a design flaw (or for installing the wrong switch) they were running out of garbage and they sure used a whole lot of rolls of electrical tape on the assembly line that day.

                  I'm thinking about a hard fix, probably wood (or a stack of quarters). It would have to be the right shape and height to mash the switch the rest of the way down without tearing the switch off. Or maybe I'll just put the garbage back on there. Either way, I'll still be wondering who figured that out and put that garbage on there. Maybe I'll go around asking 2006 Mustang owners if I can look at their clutch pedal just to see...

                  EDIT: Red's crew chief took a look at it and she observed the obvious - that plate was welded in the wrong place on the pedal arm. Some of it is even sticking up higher than it ought to be. That happened at the factory and somebody at the factory had to put that garbage on there after the car was built and they were testing it out. Had to be. At least that's what we think.

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                  Last edited by pdub; June 19, 2022, 06:14 AM.
                  Charter member of the Turd Nuggets

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                  • #24
                    or just bypass the switch.
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by pdub View Post
                      Gyah. Just wow. Like, Shazam. That stack of garbage on the clutch pedal has been bugging me, there has to be a "why." And there sure is.

                      That switch is momentary contact normal open. When the clutch pedal is pressed all the way down to the physical stop the switch is still open, it needs pressing down some more to close it. That stack of garbage is soft, it depresses the switch plunger the rest of the way down without tearing the switch off of its mounting. If that's a factory fix for a design flaw (or for installing the wrong switch) they were running out of garbage and they sure used a whole lot of rolls of electrical tape on the assembly line that day.

                      I'm thinking about a hard fix, probably wood (or a stack of quarters). It would have to be the right shape and height to mash the switch the rest of the way down without tearing the switch off. Or maybe I'll just put the garbage back on there. Either way, I'll still be wondering who figured that out and put that garbage on there. Maybe I'll go around asking 2006 Mustang owners if I can look at their clutch pedal just to see...

                      EDIT: Red's crew chief took a look at it and she observed the obvious - that plate was welded in the wrong place on the pedal arm. Some of it is even sticking up higher than it ought to be. That happened at the factory and somebody at the factory had to put that garbage on there after the car was built and they were testing it out. Had to be. At least that's what we think.

                      Click image for larger version Name:	Clutch Switch Travel.jpg Views:	0 Size:	66.6 KB ID:	1320915
                      possibly a carriage bolt and a couple of nuts to make an adjustable point for the switch to contact? mark where the switch contacts the tab, drill the tab, install the carriage bolt with one nut on either side of the tab and adjust it until the switch consistently makes...
                      Patrick & Tammy
                      - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                      • #26
                        There wasn't enough room in there for a carriage bolt adjuster, etc. I fixed it with aluminum flat bar stock. It only took all day and half the tools I own but that's just what I do, whenever I DO do.

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                        The new cylinder came today and it sure enough has a Mickey Mouse plastic clevis on it. SBG's sexy clevis is said to arrive in four days. Meantime I can try to figure out how to get the plastic clevis off of there without ruining the whole cylinder. I mean, that plastic clevis is not meant to come off of there. Sure, the old one came off real easy when it rotted and split in half.

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                        • #27
                          May I suggest a hammer? If a hammer of some kind doesn’t solve your problem, then the problem is probably electrical.
                          I'm probably wrong

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                          • #28
                            Seriously though, a hammer may be the best option to remove the clevis without damaging anything else. The old rod has knurling on the end of it. Trying to pull it off or twist it off could cause problems in other areas. Smack the clevis at the attachment point hard enough to break the plastic but not hard enough to damage the metal. Get it right, no damage to anything else.
                            I'm probably wrong

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                            • #29
                              Hmmmm. Hammer. I might. Or maybe I'll just put it on like it is. If the plastic clevis lasts 16 years like the first one did I'll be 80 years old when it breaks again. So...
                              Charter member of the Turd Nuggets

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                              • #30
                                I'd install the new master cylinder as is, and then when the new clevis arrives, put it on the old cylinder, seal the assembly in a zip lock bag and then in a coffee can sized container and stash it as a spare....
                                Patrick & Tammy
                                - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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