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Sound deadening material?

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  • Russell
    replied
    I am pretty sure that stuff will stick to anything. I assume the foam in the seat acted as a sound deadening. I would put a layer in on it. Pull the spare tire and put some on the well in the truck.

    The best sound deadening I have ever done on my car is add a turbo! It killed the flow masters drown!

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  • pdub
    replied
    Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
    I doubt (and am often wrong) that the wood is actually causing the noise itself.
    I think the wood acts like a speaker cone for everything that's going on behind it. And remember, I did all of the work on it so it's f*ed up. The wood sheet is only attached to the car on the up-and-down sides, not across the top or the bottom. I didn't have anywhere to shoot a rivet through to except on the sides. That was all in lieu of one of those storebought rear seat delete kits which I don't know how they attach and I was gonna have to cut it up to clear the roll bar downward supports. EDIT: OOOohhhh, I get what you're saying about noise coming in through the floor and the quarters. I'm slow but at least I'm slow.
    Last edited by pdub; October 26, 2022, 09:55 AM.

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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    I was ASSUMING that the wood was a replacement for the rear seat back which creates a separator between the trunk and the cabin area. Typically the noise is coming through the floor and quarters. When I did the wagon, I did the inside of all the external sheetmetal - doors, quarters, floors, firewall ....
    I know your are not redoing the entire car but the way I understand the sound deadening stuff - it keeps the sheetmetal from vibrating/transmitting noise. I doubt (and am often wrong) that the wood is actually causing the noise itself.

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  • pdub
    replied
    Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
    Pdub - I have been trying to stay out of this BUT if you can remove the wood and put the stuff on the sheetmetal then put the wood back in - you will be much happier.
    Hmmm. I having trouble picturing what you're saying. That wood panel covers up the whole gaping hole which IS the trunk. I would put the stuff on the sheet metal where? On top of the metal that the wood panel is riveted to, or line the whole trunk and the trunk lid with it?

    Click image for larger version

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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    Pdub - I have been trying to stay out of this BUT if you can remove the wood and put the stuff on the sheetmetal then put the wood back in - you will be much happier.

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  • pdub
    replied
    Originally posted by Redline04 View Post

    Let me know how that KILMAT works out for ya. I’m in the process of stripping down the whole interior of the TA. I’ll be needing some sound deadener to go under the new carpet and haven’t even begun to investigate options yet.
    Okay, I'll put it here. I don't have the stuff yet. They've got a pretty good demonstration video on their website of the procedure for applying it. I'm just wondering if it'll stick to painted wood. I used a piece of 1/8" plywood to fill in the hole where the upper backseat used to be. I'm feeling pretty stupid now about doing all this - insulating the floors and the tunnel when the whole back half of the car is like a bass drum.

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  • Redline04
    replied
    Originally posted by pdub View Post
    Sue Unit put on her shopping hat and we researched and I watched a few product videos and we settled on ordering the 80 mil KILMAT stuff...!
    Let me know how that KILMAT works out for ya. I’m in the process of stripping down the whole interior of the TA. I’ll be needing some sound deadener to go under the new carpet and haven’t even begun to investigate options yet.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Beagle View Post
    I spent untold hours scraping off 23 pounds of sound deadener off the bottom of mine, not sure what to tell you. :|
    I'm thinking you're saying "don't do it!"

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  • pdub
    replied
    Originally posted by Beagle View Post
    I spent untold hours scraping off 23 pounds of sound deadener off the bottom of mine, not sure what to tell you. :|
    But did it make a lot of noise while you were scraping off all of the sound deadener? (My attempt at humor)

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  • Beagle
    replied
    I spent untold hours scraping off 23 pounds of sound deadener off the bottom of mine, not sure what to tell you. :|

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  • happy39
    replied
    I used lizard skin in my 54 ford wagon. The sound deadening is fair but that is tough to call because the wagon is so similar to a drum. If you slap the roof you do get a thud.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    I've tried them all and even the 'cheap' Home Depot roll on stuff.... spray on ceramic coating is both easiest and most likely to reduce noise and heat to the inside. It's what's inside the Corvette and my FJ40. The FJ40 has bedliner over the top instead of carpet. The stuff works and works very well. So story to illustrate. When I did the '40, I didn't seal the center console to the floor - and always kind of wondered why the coating wasn't working - to the point that I'd have the windows down in the snow. Then I sealed the console.... now it's cold inside and I'm considering adding back the 2nd heater...

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  • anotheridiot
    replied
    Buy car insulation direct from USA's supplier for the lightest heat and sound deadening insulation. You will not find a lighter automotive sound deadener!


    Sorry I missed it, the stuff is so expensive. The real expensive stuff is closed cell, which will not hold moisture like the old stuff that just stayed wet and ate floors.

    Maybe next time.

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  • pdub
    replied
    Sue Unit put on her shopping hat and we researched and I watched a few product videos and we settled on ordering the 80 mil KILMAT stuff. Over n out. Thanks as always guys!

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  • CTX-SLPR
    replied
    I like FatMat but not sure how available it is anymore. If you use is sparingly (i.e. covering 1/3-2/3 of mainly just flat panels) you can get a decent way to keeping the sound down to OEM levels. If you're going full quiet than cover every square inch!

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