need help Hooking up Brake Controller for car trailer

[ford141]

Re: need help Hooking up Brake Controller for car trailer

If your truck has the orange, black and blue wires ran to the rear terminated in a plug then you *should* be able to pick up an aftermarket plug adapter that will plug into that factory Ford plug and give you pigtails to wire up the trailer plug to. I did this on my Super Duty because the factory trailer plug was broke when I bought it, and I didn't want to pony up the $140 for a new factory plug. Instead I bought an adapter plug for $10 and a new 7 universal plug with mount for $30 and wired them together and mounted the plug in the factory location. I didn't have to cut the factory harness at all, but the entire plug assembly is aftermarket and only cost $40. BUT, my truck had the factory towing package.

If your truck has the plug in the dash and the wires ran to the rear, it really sounds like it is factory equipped with a towing package. Maybe just missing the relays under the hood? Hopefully you can just put new relays in the slot and get power to the wires at the rear?

[Russell]

Re: need help Hooking up Brake Controller for car trailer

The blue wire works but the black and orange do not. Is the 12+ needed to operate the trailer brakes or does it just charge the battery (which I don't have now) funny thing is the center goes to the reverse lights, but my truck does not put out reverse light from the 4way.

So there is a relay and or fuse missing somewhere?

Is there anyway to fake a trailer? My controller knows there is no connection

[redragtop]

Re: need help Hooking up Brake Controller for car trailer

Here you go.
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Russell, your adapter should plug into your 4-way flat and have three extra wires. If you plug the trailer in, your tail, right turn and left turn lights should all work correctly.Test that they work correctly with lights and flashers on at the same time. Correct as needed. If trailer is not available for testing, use a 12v test light or voltmeter connected to ground terminal( #1 / white) in adapter socket and probe terminals #5, #3 and #6 for correct function according to chart.

The extra three are to add trailer brakes (#2 / blue), 12v+ (#4 / black) and aux. switched power (center terminal / orange) .

All you would need for brakes is to connect blue wire from adapter to brake controller output. Hopefully the truck already has this wire ran to the back from the factory and will have a terminal on it or be blunt cut and taped. If not, you will have to run your own. You may test your truck with your 12v test light (do not use voltmeter). Connect one end of test light to known good ground and test truck harness. When you activate your controller, the test light should illuminate and change intensity as controllers output power is adjusted. If you can't find a wire at the back of truck that supplies power for brakes, you will need to run a new wire and/or repair brake controller.

All power and ground tests are to be done by function/location only and NOT by color!!

This diagram (if this is correct for your truck) shows your truck has a brake (dark blue 12 ga wire), a 12V+ (orange 12ga wire) and trailer back up lights (black/light green 14ga wire). You will notice wire colors from truck are the opposite of the socket. That is why you always wire by function and NOT by color. If wires are present but have no power, check for missing fuses/relays in underhood junction box. Check owners manual for fuse/relay locations.

Diagram also shows standard colors for brake controller. If you find blue wire at back of truck but you can't get your testlight to light, check for output at controller. Repair or replace as needed.

If the wires are there, it only saves you from having to run the wires. You still have to connect them in the front of truck and inside the cab. If your controller has a plug for the dash, it makes it a plug and play, but is not necessary.

The worst case would be you have to run wires:

Power and ground from battery to brake controller with breaker and wire of appropriate gauge. Do not exceed controller rating.
Trip/sense wire to controller from brake light switch.
Route wire from controller to trailer socket (blue 12ga).
Install new socket (7-blade RV type or whatever matches your trailer)if adapter doesn't work.
You will only need 5 of the 7 terminals for lights and brakes only.
You can mount and secure battery on front of trailer for trailer break-away requirements but would have to recharge battery if you don't hook up 12v+ in trailer socket.
Optional: you could also hook up switched power to aux (center) terminal for work lights, back up lights, dome lights, etc.

Hope this helps

[Russell]

Re: need help Hooking up Brake Controller for car trailer

Why do you say do not use a voltmeter. I have already done that. As the controller is turned up and down the voltage at the blue wire changes accordingly!

[redragtop]

Re: need help Hooking up Brake Controller for car trailer

Why do you say do not use a voltmeter. I have already done that. As the controller is turned up and down the voltage at the blue wire changes accordingly!

Is there anyway to fake a trailer? My controller knows there is no connection

Some controllers will not put current out without a trailer hooked up. Was not sure about the one you have, but based on your post I assumed yours would need a load (sorry, my bad). Voltmeters put no "load" on system like test light does. That is why I said to use test light instead of voltmeter. If your controller is putting out variable voltage on wire at back of truck, you should be good to go. Simply hook up your lights and test, then hook up adapter wire for brakes (see diagram). Attach adapter wire to truck wire with appropriate connector and seal from the elements.

Keep in mind that the ground wire from your 4-way flat connector may need to be upgraded in size of wire, depending on how much current your controller can put out and number of braking axles.