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[i]Back [/i] on the road again.

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  • [i]Back [/i] on the road again.

    Somewhere around 2005 I decided I had enough of drag racing, and wanted to just enjoy my car again. The condensed story is that I put a new 14.? :1 motor in the Chevelle and it only picked up a tenth over the 11:1 motor, but it launched so much more violently that it was pretty much worthless as a racecar unless I dropped a bunch of money back into it AGAIN.

    After it sat for close to a year, I worked out a deal with a buddy of mine who happens to be a great racer and a pretty good engine builder, too.

    He found someone who wanted to upgrade from their 750 d/p to my QF 850... because I don't need an 850 on the street.

    He found someone who had a car similar in weight and motor to my car who wanted my almost new Coan 8" converter that stalled @ 5200 in my car. I replaced mine with a nice unit from FTI Competition Converters; Greg (the owner) calls it his "tight 4000". It drives around like a tight converter, but flashes to 4000 when you stand on the go pedal. It is a sweet converter! The receipt for the converter is dated 4/4/08.

    The rest of the deal was that I would get my aluminum AFR 195's back and he would get his ported Bow Ties back. He had a set of BRC forged flat top pistons for 3.75 stroke and 6" rods that only had 7 runs on them I would get. He would get his crower rockers back (because those are what work on his Bow Tie heads) and I would get my Crane Gold's back. I would re-use my crank, rods, balancer, etc.

    I sent the block to the machine shop. Not the good race car machine shop - just the regular machine shop, since it was to be a street car motor. My buddy sent one of the pistons over to the machine shop as well, so the machinist would bore/hone the holes to the right size for forged pistons. ( I didn't want this motor to sound like a diesel with loose forged pistons rocking around inside. )

    When it was done, my buddy sent a driver to pick it up. It sat bagged in his garage for a couple years or so.

    At some point a while back, my mom was missing "her" grand car, as she calls it, and paid for everything else it needed - gaskets, rings, bearings, etc. which came to around $400.

    I wasn't in a hurry at this point, because I was low on funds and caught up in something else that occupied my time... and I had canceled the insurance and registration on the car, so I couldn't drive it anyway.

    Finally, I come around to my old life again and tell my friend I'm ready to get working on the Chevelle. He works it into his schedule and a couple weeks ago we got started on it.

    To be continued...

  • #2
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • #3
      I love happy endings ....
      Whiskey for my men ... and beer for their horses!

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      • #4
        crap. spent 20 minutes typing out part 2, then hit the wrong button. Poof, gone. grrr.

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        • #5
          Great!! Good luck on making it a runner.
          I'm still learning

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          • #6
            Step one: cut the rings. I have never filed rings, so lucky for me my buddy has done a LOT of them.

            Step two: get the car out of my garage and to his shop, pull the motor, take it apart, inspect. Noticed that the block had been clearanced for the rods to clear the pan rail, so I ended up having to clearance the new block. I have seen a block clearanced right into the water jacket, so I had to be careful not to take too much... on the other hand, I didn't want to spend all day taking a little bit, washing the block, dummying it up, and checking all 8 holes, over and over. I got lucky and got it on the first try.

            *note: spiro locks aren't bad once you get the hang of them. The first old piston I took off the rod took me 15 minutes. The remaining 7 took about 20 more minutes.

            The rods were out of tolerance and out of round. This time I wasn't messing around with the cheap machine shop - they went to the good machine shop. Crank, rods, and bearings go. As a favor to my buddy (who went to high school with the machine shop owner) I got the rods back in two days. The rods were already labeled, but the cap screws and the bearings came back numbered, too. And the clearances were now from .0027 to .0028. Sweet.

            I still have the original paperwork that came with the AFR's, which among other things, direct how to drill steam holes if needed. This block still has the steam holes, so the heads needed them. You should have seen me with the carpenter's square, tape measure, sharpie, and head scratching back to my days in geometry class - trying to be sure I drilled at exactly 30* away from the head bolt holes. It is unnerving drilling into heads at an angle that goes above the combustion chambers... but it went well, and I hit the water jackets just where the instructions said I would. Whew.

            The rest of the build went smoothly until we get to the pushrods. My AFR's needed .200 long pushrods when I first bought them... and neither one of us know where those pushrods are now. It doesn't matter, because I had upgraded the valves sometime in the past, and the valves that were installed were .100 longer - I needed new pushrods. Fortunately BoLaws had a set in stock, so a quick drive into Orlando the next day had only set us back a day.

            Some of you recall I was waffling on camshaft choice - Keep the billet steel roller or go to a cast core street roller? I opted for the street roller. I went with the Comp Cams Xtreme Roller XR286R with 248/254 duration @ .050, .576/.582 lift, and lash settings of .016/.018. Research I have done points toward the tighter lash settings helps the roller lifters live considerably longer on the street.

            Ready to install!

            to be continued...

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            • #7
              Having an "in" with the "good" machine shop is priceless! This thing should be an absolute blast on the street, and I'm sure you'll still have fun on the strip with it from time to time too...
              There's always something new to learn.

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              • #8
                Get some pictures for us. It's cool that you'll be able to enjoy your ride much more this way.
                BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

                Resident Instigator

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                • #9
                  I skipped over a few things.
                  -I traded him my Victor Jr intake manifold, port matched to those Bow Tie heads for an RPM Air Gap he had hanging on the wall. I'll be spending most of my time under 6500 rpm, and the Air Gap beats the Vic Jr under 6500... sweet trade, imo.

                  -My distributor cap and rotor were nasty, and the dist. had the bronze gear on it... rather than switch everything around, he already had a distributor that was locked down, had a newish cap and rotor, and the cast gear on it... so he just traded me. Sweet.

                  -My old solid motor mounts were fubar. The passenger side was cracked and bent so bad the motor leaned over...a lot. It was ugly. He had a set of used solid motor mounts in his shop. These were considerably thicker than mine - like 3/16" and 1/4", although they were both Moroso pieces . He gave me the better set. Sweet.

                  Just wanted you guys to get a sense of what a good friend he is.

                  We got it fired up last Friday night. After setting the timing, it sounded decent - although I was a little dissappointed in how the cam sounded. And it smoked. A lot.

                  Turn off the fans and let it get up to 200 degrees to help seat the rings... still smoking it's butt off.

                  Bad gas? The car has been sitting for a long time, maybe some old gas needs to get burned out, so I take it for a test drive to burn out some of the old gas, and perhaps heat the exhaust system enough to burn out any oil that may be in it. ???

                  Get back from a 6 mile ride, getting on the throttle a few times... still smoking. Pull it back into his shop to investigate... While the headers are cooling down enough to pull a couple plugs, I check the fuel level. I used about 5 gallons in my little test drive! Holy cow.
                  The plugs were like black velvet.

                  Keep in mind that this is the used 750 dp carb I had traded for... I had never driven the car with it - it just sat in my garage and idled a few times. Now, the power valve was okay, and the carb had 80 jets in the front (with a power valve, yes) , so he had changed the jets to 70's before the test drive...

                  It's midnight Friday evening, and he has to work in the morning... but he said "get that carburetor off". He grabbed a Holley HP series main body he had, swapped main bodies, and inspected the base plate. We had to straighten the linkage from the primaries to the secondaries because when you closed the primaries all the way, it started opened the secondaries.

                  Fire it up... no smoke. Ahhh. Adjust the air bleeds and idle screw, and it sounds great.

                  12:45 am I left his house, filled the fuel cell at the gas station near his house and I drove the Chevelle home - leaving my truck at his house. Used about a gallon to a gallon and a half to drive home 15 miles.

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                  • #10
                    I was a slacker- no pics. Sorry.

                    ...and before I reinstall the power steering, inner fenders, sway bar, change the gears, etc., I will take it to the track to see what it runs.
                    Last edited by yellomalibu; June 2, 2011, 09:58 AM.

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                    • #11
                      So the smoke was it running crazy rich.... have you changed the oil and filter yet?
                      There's always something new to learn.

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                      • #12
                        I did take a couple pics of the car, though. I have my new BFG's with the white letters in, and the decals have been removed... and if you really pay attention to details, you'll see I added the piece of trim on the fenders, in front of the doors.

                        After I install the inner fenders, I'll install my original flat hood (which I also had painted when I got the car and the cowl hood painted)


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                        • #13
                          pretty awesome
                          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                            So the smoke was it running crazy rich.... have you changed the oil and filter yet?
                            Not yet. I have the oil change, just need to do it... and check the valves. I set them cold to 10 and 12, wanna check them hot.

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                            • #15
                              Yeah, thats a pretty cool car.
                              Originally posted by TC
                              also boost will make the cam act smaller

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