any ford techs?

[1931s/x]

nevermind on the reverse and nuetral issue it does it all the time. it seems like it is dumping all the fuel into the engine, im thinking thats why the scan tool shows the fuel rail pressure dropping to 0 when it runs like crap. if there was 0 psi, i dont think it would be loading up on fuel. also makes sense why it would run better when i unplug the pump.
the codes it has, in order,
p0122 tps low input
p0172 bank 1 too rich
p0175 bank 2 too rich
p0191 frps range performance
p0405 i think that was egr related
p0452 i think that was evap
p2196 o2 stuck rich
p2198 o2 stuck rich
the car was running perfect just minutes before this issue.

[1931s/x]

i looked online it looks like its around 130. i only put a pump in it, not the whole module. with strainers that was only around 100. i guess ill go to a dealer and see what they say for the fpdm.

[ford141]

Can't help with how to test it. Mine was obviously bad, since it came out in two pieces...

I seem to think my module was around $100, much cheaper a new fuel pump for that truck.

[1931s/x]

i removed the fuel pump d river module, cleaned the back, cleaned the ground connection that its bracket secures, no change. this fpdm has my intrest now. i wish i could find out how to test it. so far im aggrivated, but most of the crap i bought is just normal stuff that should have been replaced, aside fro mthe fuel pump, and that wasnt a ton of money.

[1931s/x]

i did the pump, strainers and frame mounted fuel filter. no change. well other than the new strainers are not black, the filter was nasty too.

[ford141]

Might be a long shot, but I had a VERY similar problem with my old 2005 F150. It turned out to be the Fuel pump driver module, which was located on the frame above the spare tire. Water, dirt, and salt had collected between the module and the frame, causing corrosion which lifted the module in the middle and broke it in half. It would run fine until the electronics moved around and shorted, causing the erratic fuel pressure. I had been getting codes for the fuel pump and injectors, but there were no codes related to the driver, which was the actual problem.

[Beagle]

I saw a few posts in the Focus forums where that was causing their problems... so I'd vote yes on possible cause.

[1931s/x]

i was thinking it only acted up when it got up to full temp, but i ruled that out when i started it up this morning and it ran like crap right away. the scan tool showed 0 fuel rail pressure most of the time it was running. it did spike a few times but mostly stayed at 0. it doesnt want to start right up, the fuel pump is making a lot of noise, its easy to access, i unplugged the pump while running, the car imediatly runs good until the rail runs out of fuel. i pulled the line after the filter and turned the key on, it is pumping fuel but i dont have any way to put a guage on it t osee what the actual psi is. the pump has steady 12.8 or so volts reguardless of how its running. could a bad pump really cause all of these codes?

[Beagle]

http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=6796

wasn't for the Merc specifically but the information seemed worth a try....

A possible short of the VREF signal internal to the EGR system module (ESM) may result in less than 5 volts on the VREF signal line. To check for internal ESM short, check resistance between Pin-2 (VREF) and Pin-6 (signal return) on the ESM with ESM harness disconnected. If resistance is less than 2000 ohms, replace ESM following Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-08.
Inspect main engine harness to powertrain control module (PCM) rub through on the A/C line at back right of engine compartment. Repair as necessary.
Inspect fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor located at top right of engine for broken or cracked vacuum port. Replace as necessary following WSM, Section 303-14.
Inspect inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) located in front passenger foot well for loose or disconnected wiring/connector and build date code on switch. If switch was built before November 2005 (5 L XXX) replace switch. Date code is visible without removing switch and is located near top of switch. (Figure 1)

[starterguy]

The chewed pcm ground is a good choice to check. Personally I saw some Taurus cars with bad Transmission range sensors in 2001-2 where they would backfeed and create all kinds of havoc. I had one that would shut the radio off in park and neutral, as well as various codes. The range sensor is on the side of the trans where the linkage attaches, try checking the connector there for moisture inside.

[min301]

Also check for a chewed PCM ground.

[1931s/x]

im going to check out the filter tomorrow. i never did it. all this time i thought it was in the tank, but i did see a rgular inline filter on rockauto. i did try wiggling wires and pulling plugs to check for corrosion. i had pretty much every plug off and they all looked fine. this stuff is way too high tech. i tested the tps, it seems to work fine im going to retest it when it starts acting up. i didnt figure out how to test anything else yet.

[VTJUNK]

You can google any OBD codes.

P0122 Throttle position sensor voltage too low.

P0191 Fuel rail pressure sensor range performance.

P0405 EGR sensor A circuit low voltage.

P0452 Evap Emissions control system pressure sensor low input.

I'd start the car and start moving some wiring harnesses and see what happens. Maybe your little friends did some damage you can't see? Lots of voltage issues there.

[min301]

Does it have a fuel filter, or is it in the tank?

Sounds kinda wonky, check with your local dealer for TSB's and recalls.

[1931s/x]

i just took it for a ride again, it was fine but started idling funny when i would put it in reverse or nuetral. for some reason those 2 seem to trigger it more than park or drive. watching the data on the scan tool as i took it for a ride, the fuel rail pressure is pretty erratic. at 38-39 its runs great, but it will start to fluctuate and go anywhere from 0 to 72 psi. this time i only got p0122 p0405 and
p0452. i dont know if the pcm tries to correct for too much fuel? i dont really think its the pump, i dont think the pressure would go that high if the pump was going bad. i dont know if its telling the pump to do that or the pump is crapping out. i need to figure out how to test the fuel rail pressure sensor. would it try to change the fuel pressure if there was a lot of water in it?