Need some input ... 66 Chevy SB truck

[Bamfster]

Take a look at the add, want honest opinions on price, thoughts on pitfalls etc.

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/2673038281.html

Been talking to the guy .... seems to know what he's talking about and the only reason I'm interested is because he's more of a horse trader .... not a cash sale. I got some junk in storage that he's interested in, but I don't want to get into a truck that I can't unload relatively easily in the future. It DOES NOT have and engine or trans .....

Thoughts, opinions, What say you?

[Brian Lohnes]

Since Goliath is a '66 that truck has the same cab on it.

Obviously, find out how bad the "typical" rust is. In Goliath's case, it required major surgery and could have probably used more. The bottoms of the doors are probably rotted away, too. That seems to be typical of these trucks. My chassis is obviously different but the rest of the truck as far as the electrical and junk is all old school straight forward stuff.

You could do the motor swap and everything in your sleep. It is the condition of the cab that I would pay lots of attention to. Kinda weird he led with the "no rust in the bed" line.

Brian

[Stich496]

5" DROP ON COILS,, pass

[A/Fuel]

Do you have an engine and transmission you could put in there so you can drive it?

[milner351]

Seems like he's already spent more than his asking price on suspension axles etc. Watch out for rust, otherwise - it could be way cool or a total freaking nightmare - flat black paint can hide a lot of sins in sheetmetal.

could be way cool if you have the time and space to make it that way.

[realsteelfreak]

squeeze him on the trade, basic SBC & 350 turbo installed ,Clean it ,chassis black the frame ,drive it for the hell of it or sell it for your price. I would be driving it in a week.

[Bamfster]

Engine and trans is no biggie, got a couple different options up at the shop.

I guess I should also throw my end game out there. Me and a former partner have started up a small construction/remodel business (RAM Construction). I just want somewhat of a beater truck to haul tools and trash in that has a decent cool factor to it ... don't need to carry lumber etc or anything huge.

He says over 2500 on suspension but I have a feeling he is just passing along info from whoever did the work told him ... no receipts for parts.

[Stich496]

thought you did tranny work?

[Bamfster]

thought you did tranny work?

Yea .... and?

[HillbillySailor2]

Like the others said, look for rust in the cab corners floors, and cab mounts. And is it just me, or does the front end geometry look all kinds of wrong???

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'd pass on it - that picture of the red suspension (really, who would advertise that?) screams .... hmmmm, how to make this sound nice .... a can-do attitude that's gone horribly, horribly wrong

[STINEY]

That's what I thought at first glance too.........but on closer inspection it seems that there is no spray-bombage or overspray on the boots or joints? Perhaps there is more than meets the eye going on here?

$1500 - - Jeez, scrap has to still be around $250 for that. Is there $1200 worth of cool left in it, aside from its weight? Probably yes......IF there is a nice clean title papertrail that goes along with it.

Not that I'd pay $1500 or $1200.....might go a cool grand but I'd offer less in nice crisp greenbacks in person.

[Orange65]

Rust areas- rockers, back corners of the cab, the "brow" above the windshield (the gutter drains get clogged and water gets past the aging seam sealer), top of windshield inside the cab, and the cab floors at the kick panel. Also look at the bottom of the hood all around for rust and the bottom of the front fenders.
5" drop is too much for springs alone. I have a 5" drop using 2" drop spindles and 3" lowering springs on my 65 C10. That may be a misprint on the ad as he lists new spindles. I would ask how he lowered the rear- could use blocks and springs combined. 5" on the back could cause frame to rear interference.
Price seems a little high for the truck depending on how rough the body is. But if he has all new suspension, it may not be that bad. Any SBC or BBC and transmission will fit. If it is originally a manual trans, you may need a bell housing from that body style to use a manual- some of them had transmission mounts on them. I would try trading or talk him down. LMC truck has everything you need to rebuild it! I love that body style.

[HillbillySailor2]

That's what I thought at first glance too.........but on closer inspection it seems that there is no spray-bombage or overspray on the boots or joints? Perhaps there is more than meets the eye going on here?

$1500 - - Jeez, scrap has to still be around $250 for that. Is there $1200 worth of cool left in it, aside from its weight? Probably yes......IF there is a nice clean title papertrail that goes along with it.

Not that I'd pay $1500 or $1200.....might go a cool grand but I'd offer less in nice crisp greenbacks in person.

But take a look, in particular, at the upper control arms. They look like they're bottmed out/bound up. And that's what I can see in just this pic.

[Scott Liggett]

I had to fix major problems with an improperly lowered 66 C10. The shocks were bottoming out breaking the shock mounts off the lower A arms and egging out the upper shock bolt holes in the frame. I had to have big washers inside and out of the frame to have round bollts again.

The first two pics of the truck show it wet. The paint, or primer is really flat black.

Bed woods are usually wasted. Look to see if the metal strips are still there and the bolt holes to mount the bed and bed floor arent rusted away. Cab probably has door sills rusted away. I think LMC trucks makes patch panels for the sills and floors.

The in cab gas tank is usually rusted out at the bottom.