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  • dieselpowerperformance, anybody done business with them? Experiences?

    apparently stock sucks no matter what you have. I'm being tempted by the evil wicked upgrade gremlin... I'm thinking about bigger injectors and wondering if anybody here has done business with dieselpowerperformance and if they have, how was the experience?

    Basically, I'm thinking intercooler, 1.0 turbine housing, BFH and bigger downpipe, 30-60cc bigger injectors, maybe a stealth pump. Trying to stay under 3000.00 and not so hot it eats the tranny.
    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

  • #2
    in an S10 ? LOL

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    • #3
      7.3 hillbilly hauler yes?

      Beans diesel performance or Rosewood. Talk to them first before you go spending that kind of money.

      Unless your plan is a full on race truck, I don't think an upgraded pump is necessary.

      I'd go more or less in this order:
      1. exhaust (get rid of the flattened factory downpipe and put in a fully round one - you'll have to hammer flat the floor / firewall seam) (this can be had turbo back with a muffler for as little as $300)
      2. intake - baldwin PA2818 or similar "Tymar" style trash can air filter to replace the factory air box ($150 or less)
      3. Modify the program - either with a plug in programmer or a stack on chip - flip chips are available with up to 6 different programs you can switch on the fly. ($$$ not sure)
      4. Beans tranny saver or similar upgraded injectors - $800 minimum investment here depending on how bad your current injectors are
      - when you pull the valve covers etc to swap injectors - it's a good time to pull the turbo "you're in there"
      turbo rebuild kits are available on Ebay for $105ish - including balancing the turbine wheel (you send it in, they balance and send back)
      There's always something new to learn.

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      • #4
        I want to see a backhoe or dozer upgraded.
        Escaped on a technicality.

        Comment


        • #5
          my brother in law picked up an off road fork truck dealio with a 4BT Cummins.... I'm resisting the temptation to do anything besides periodic maintenance.
          There's always something new to learn.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by milner351 View Post
            7.3 hillbilly hauler yes?

            Beans diesel performance or Rosewood. Talk to them first before you go spending that kind of money.

            Unless your plan is a full on race truck, I don't think an upgraded pump is necessary.

            I'd go more or less in this order:
            1. exhaust (get rid of the flattened factory downpipe and put in a fully round one - you'll have to hammer flat the floor / firewall seam) (this can be had turbo back with a muffler for as little as $300)
            2. intake - baldwin PA2818 or similar "Tymar" style trash can air filter to replace the factory air box ($150 or less)
            3. Modify the program - either with a plug in programmer or a stack on chip - flip chips are available with up to 6 different programs you can switch on the fly. ($$$ not sure)
            4. Beans tranny saver or similar upgraded injectors - $800 minimum investment here depending on how bad your current injectors are
            - when you pull the valve covers etc to swap injectors - it's a good time to pull the turbo "you're in there"
            turbo rebuild kits are available on Ebay for $105ish - including balancing the turbine wheel (you send it in, they balance and send back)
            Thanks John, yeah, that's the beastie... and that's pretty much the path I'm going to take. I really would like to start with an I/C because the chips supposedly make the EGT go up, and everything else will want a chip. I found a Hypermax chip in the glove compartment, I need to contact them and see which one it is. If it's the 300hp chip, I may put a pyrometer in, plug the chip in and see what it does. I'm thinking of a Volvo or newer Powerstroke intercooler, I can't see dropping the coin on a "kit" when you can get a decent core (most of the money) for 200.00 or less on ebay or CL. They show up all the time here. The serious guys get a bigger core and let their stock junk go for cheap.

            The exhaust is straight pipe but it's still the stock downpipe. I saw how ugly it was, and figured on the BFH treatment and a 3" downpipe. Everything after that is already 3" mandrel and at some point it goes up to 3.5 or 4.0, I didn't measure yet. It's bigger than the front and the front is definitely 3".

            I'm not sure if you can see this air filter or not, but it's pretty huge.
            Click image for larger version

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            The pump / injector thing starts getting pricey. That's where most of the coin in the budget goes.

            The turbo housing seems like a good idea if it's already got an I/C, they are not that pricey and it's a good time to get it rebuilt. Majestic Turbo is in the same town I work in and has a good reputation. I'll likely let them do the rebuild so it can get in and out and I won't have to sweat if I dorked something up or not. The 1.0 A/R seems turbine housing to be a popular swap to get it to spool quicker? With an I/C I think the EGT will stay in line.
            Last edited by Beagle; November 2, 2011, 12:13 PM. Reason: translating to english since I can't speak today.
            Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by milner351 View Post
              my brother in law picked up an off road fork truck dealio with a 4BT Cummins.... I'm resisting the temptation to do anything besides periodic maintenance.
              Put it in a 4x4 Ranger and get 30mpg driving to work and back year round?


              (I actually don't know jack about those engines)
              Escaped on a technicality.

              Comment


              • #8
                That's a PA2818 already in there - if you're into sheetmetal fab - build a box around it to shield it from heat - always wanted to - haven't done it yet.

                My '97 4x4 was fast for a truck, with beans tranny savers, .84 (it was a 5 speed with 4.10 gears) housing, and a program a guy from work built for me. I also could get about 19mpg on the highway running 65mph max.

                I never put an intercooler into the '97 but it was on my long list of wants I never got to. I would use a take out superduty intercooler as you've mentioned - cheap take outs are available and a huge boost to a non intercooled truck. I was always taken back by the price of the hose, but you got to pay to play.

                I think a 1.0 is a good housing for an automatic truck without steep gears.
                If it's not already - I would put a large by huge transmission cooler on it - and possibly an inline oil filter style filter for the transmission. That's on my list for the -01 as well as gauges for pyrometer and trans fluid temp.

                The local turbo rebuilder is a major plus - as long as the price is reasonable - turbos are not complex machines, I was surprised how little there was to them, the stockers are bushings, not ball bearings.

                If you're not already I would recommend switching over to 5w40 full synthetic motor oil, remember to drain the HPOP reservoir with a vac pump when you do for added insurance.
                There's always something new to learn.

                Comment


                • #9
                  mine has 3.55's and it dropped to about 18.5 with a HPOP leaking like a stuck pig, pulling a trailer with a Fiat on it... 65-70.

                  The oil was just recently done, it's another couple thousand until it is due. Looks from the stickers like they were using Rotella. I'll have to get a loan for the next one... 15 quarts, ouch. What's the story on the HPOP reservoir?

                  Maybe I'll see if I can get a Garrett book and look at it, they are dirt simple but .00000000 precise. I'm a bit of a hamfist.
                  Last edited by Beagle; November 2, 2011, 12:48 PM.
                  Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TheSilverBuick View Post
                    Put it in a 4x4 Ranger and get 30mpg driving to work and back year round?


                    (I actually don't know jack about those engines)
                    it'd get closer to 45-50 with the right gear. I want one.

                    They get close to 3000 for a 4cyl Cummins / Isuzu around here. I want to put one mid engine in a Geo Metro with a rwd conversion. It weighs about what the car does I think.
                    Last edited by Beagle; November 2, 2011, 12:51 PM.
                    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      4BT's sure are not cheap. No diesel is cheap to rebuild, but they are built to last - I was astonished at the mahle piston/rings that came in the motorcraft rebuild kit, they were very well made and came out very well weight matched.

                      There is a goldish plug on the top of the HPOP with a small hex drive - I think it's a 5 or 5.5mm hex - sealed with an o-ring.
                      That is the reservoir the high pressure pump pulls from to fire the injectors - it holds oil there so a cold start has adequate oil pressure to fire the injectors - not relying on the crank driven oil pump (right behind the balancer) to get oil up there first, there's a drain back check valve to hold oil there when pressure drops after shut down. When changing oil types (or if you're worried about contamination) you want to evacuate that reservoir of the old oil before refilling with new. I think it holds a quart or so - but I'm not truly sure.

                      I'm happy to report that after 3000 miles on the dyno 15w40 - you can still see through the oil on the dipstick, I'm past 5000 miles since the rebuild, so I'm going to go with the 5w-40 synthetic - as I recall Walmart has the best price on the rotella - but it's still an expensive oil change - 4 gallons at $20 a gallon plus about $12 for a filter - but - then you're set to run at least 10,000 miles between changes. I'm still considering a bypass filtration system and extended changes - since I know the engine is new now - that would keep it alive for pretty much eternity.
                      There's always something new to learn.

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                      • #12
                        I just did the oil change on the 01 last night - there's about 20 ounces of oil in the HPOP resevoir and it's a 5mm allen head to remove the plug. Mighty vac does the trick to get the oil out, you need a small funnel to get oil back in, smaller than an atf funnel small.
                        There's always something new to learn.

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