Chaining the Motor Down.......

[TC]

Anyone do this??

I know back in the day, we'd run stock engine mounts and put a limiting chain bolted to the frame and motor to prevent the motor from moving to much.......

What benefit of any is there to doing it??

And would you be better off just going with solid mounts??

And I guess I should ask, how much of a pain in the ass are motor plates and are they really worth it??

[squirrel]

I chained the engine in my 55 after eating up a fan on the shroud, when the mount broke. Seems to be fine now. I don't want solid mounts, I put too many miles on the car.

[SpiderGearsMan]

Engine plate

[Grumpy]

I use Engine/Motor plates but I think the need is determined by how much strip time the car is going to see?

[Eliteman76]

Well, after ripping the second mount in my GTS with a 4 speed...keep in mind I've been running freaking 2.75's out back with the top loader and still ripped a NOS mount...here is a basic suggestion:
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/engi...que-strap.html

[squirrel]

Chevys are a lot easier, there are holes right there ready to use.

[ford141]

I've been running solid motor mounts on the 460 in my '79 F350 for 3 years now (old school engine swap mounts). I put a lot of street miles on it, but I really don't notice a difference in vibration between it and my other trucks with rubber mounts. Maybe they transfer more noise, but I really can't tell, the truck is pretty loud anyway. I don't see the problem with solid mounts on a street vehicle. But a chain would be cheap, quick, and dirty insurance.

[Scott Liggett]

I have one on the Caprice. It was attached to the frame and the bottom of the AC compressor. I plann to reattach it when I reinstall it with the AC.

[Mater]

my 82 Grand Prix had one for the oldsmobile it had in it.

honest i never thought the engine made enough power for it to be of any use but it was there when i bought it

[HillbillySailor2]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but some GM and Mopar cars came from the factory with torque straps (cables with metal eyelets on each end) bolted to the driver's side of the block back in the 60's. My Dad also ran a chain on his Chevy Biscayne back in the day when he broke a motor mount (after replacing it of course).

[Stich496]

I've been running solid motor mounts on the 460 in my '79 F350 for 3 years now (old school engine swap mounts). I put a lot of street miles on it, but I really don't notice a difference in vibration between it and my other trucks with rubber mounts. Maybe they transfer more noise, but I really can't tell, the truck is pretty loud anyway. I don't see the problem with solid mounts on a street vehicle. But a chain would be cheap, quick, and dirty insurance.

in what that dent body.. it might be the frame soaking it up.. the stations 77's(they had three) frames where flexy when new

[Stich496]

Anyone do this??

I know back in the day, we'd run stock engine mounts and put a limiting chain bolted to the frame and motor to prevent the motor from moving to much.......

What benefit of any is there to doing it??

And would you be better off just going with solid mounts??

And I guess I should ask, how much of a pain in the ass are motor plates and are they really worth it??

what car? the 80 g body? turbo build.. I'd chain it.. cheap and it works.. if you plate it. those g body frames are weak at the door pillar and you'll need to box it..

[ford141]

in what that dent body.. it might be the frame soaking it up.. the stations 77's(they had three) frames where flexy when new

True, they are flexy, especially the older highboy chassis (77 and earlier), but I really don't think they are any more flexible than an older car. My cousin has a '72 Olds Cutlass and we tried jacking it up on the frame just behind the front tire. After we lifted the body about 4 inches and the front bumper never moved, we decided to change our jacking strategy. I really think the car would have folded in half if we kept jacking.

[milner351]

Ran a chain on the clevo in my 70 mustang for years - good insurance with a 4 speed especially.

There's also the trick of drilling through the factory vulcanized mounts and putting botls with large diameter washers on both sides and a nylock nut - that limits the amount of flex in the mount and is almost impossible to see once installed.

[squirrel]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but some GM and Mopar cars came from the factory with torque straps (cables with metal eyelets on each end) bolted to the driver's side of the block back in the 60's.

there was a recall on Chevys to install the straps, saw quite a few of them when I worked at the junkyard 30 years ago. It was on mid to late 60s cars, before they added the extra tabs to the mounts to keep them from moving too far. Then they changed the mount design around 1973 to totally encase the mount in metal, so it couldn't go far, which solved the problem.