I hate painting in winter.

[SpiderGearsMan]

6.2 ...hope it lives ..we launched a few rods out the side of the last 6.2 nat guard refugee

[Beagle]

We (shop monkeys) drove the crap out of one for about 300k back in the late 80's before it got traded. We drove it slowly, like there was a choice or something, but it just kept going. Floored the whole time, and the yugos were zooming by us like we were an old lady with a walker, but it kept going. You guys at GM know about this new mystery substance? They call it oil. Seems to help keep the block a one piece design. Hope that helps.

/edit - it didn't help the body. Good thing it had a minimal interior and a big bed to hold the trim screws that fell out. :P

[RAIV70Judge]

If your going to use a single stage paint, like enamel or urethane, get some accelerator for your mix and also use a little fish eye eliminator. Being that the rig is a diesel, there is bound to be oil everywhere on the surface. the accelerator will flash real quick to dust free, and you can get your wood fire going again quick.

[SuperBuickGuy]

We (shop monkeys) drove the crap out of one for about 300k back in the late 80's before it got traded. We drove it slowly, like there was a choice or something, but it just kept going. Floored the whole time, and the yugos were zooming by us like we were an old lady with a walker, but it kept going. You guys at GM know about this new mystery substance? They call it oil. Seems to help keep the block a one piece design. Hope that helps.

/edit - it didn't help the body. Good thing it had a minimal interior and a big bed to hold the trim screws that fell out. :P

and don't run it out of coolant.... my 6.2 has at least 262,000 miles on it (goodwrench replacement) - and I will put the turbo on it quite soon. I agree, they're not difficult to break, but they also will last forever if you take care of them.... and get awesome mileage.

[Thumpin455]

Well the thing is red, needs another coat so it will get more paint tomorrow. Just got done with it today. Started the fire at 0900, finally got the shop warm enough to shoot it about 5pm. I think there is more junk floating around in winter than there is in summer, so hopefully it can be color sanded tomorrow before I do the second coat.

I am never painting in winter again, unless I have some sort of heat that is always on. This project is kicking my ass hardcore.

[Thumpin455]

Here it is all red, need to wait a day for it to cure, then sand some spots flat where the primer ran, and where the color peeled, then shoot the second coat. This one is proof I can make anything look good in pictures.

[milner351]

Looks great from here Todd!

heating a building consistant enough to paint in, with wood, then keeping junk out of the slowly drying paint..... that's a monumental effort in itself - not even counting the work to actually apply the paint.

[DanStokes]

Looks good, Todd! And Red! I hope they appreciate you.

Painting in the winter is always a PITA in Michigan. I insulated the snot out of my Ann Arbor shop and I had a gas furnace. It would hold temp pretty well for hours unless I opened the overhead door - this sometimes became a choice between ventilation and retaining heat. Usually I just walked out and waited a couple of hours to ventilate. I had a pretty big exhaust fan but an over all paint would exceed it's capacity.

Dan

[Eliteman76]

Painting this time of the year sucks. Metal needs to be 65 deg F to have stuff properly stick.
Humidity right now in our shop has been in the 30% area for a while, so it's real nice and dry. Humidity is going to make stuff slow cure.
The reducer also plays a huge part...if the reducer you got was not for cold/cool temps, that is going to prolong things as well.

I am back to painting for a living instead of sales monkey...except instead of cars, I am painting this sorta stuff...