Powertrax lockright & no slip,opinions or experiences?

[ChampTrucking]

I just got my grubby mitts on a complete 373 geared DANA 44 rear axle that will bolt into my 61 Lark. I currently have a 331 geared DANA 44 in it now. Both have flanged axles,and the 331 is a posi,the 373 is not. Rather than swiping the posi carrier out of the 331 I want to find some sort of limited slip for the 373 rear so I can keep the 331 posi as a backup axle. Hence my interest in a LOCK RIGHT or a NO SLIP. The appeal is ease of installation for me,and a tight, spool like differential. Also the price is right! So has anyone used either unit and do/did you like it and why or why not??
My Lark is powered by a mild,rebuilt 400 CI with a Weiand 142 supercharger (5 PSI boost) a TH350 with a TCI valve body kit set to "race" and stock rear leafs with Lakewood traction bars. It hooks nice and straight and the 1-2 shift is as harsh as a manual trans.power shift when you are on it. I have no wheel hop issues and run street radials.
I have spent a lot of time on the net reading about the units in question and it seems the NO SLIP is a bit less harsh and a tad stronger than the LOCK RIGHT. And I read of others fail issues. I beat on the Lark more than I should and hit the drag strip when time and the job permit (not as often as i would like) Reason for all the background is I want to be honest with the fact I am not real easy on the little Studebaker. So Thanks in advance for whatever you have to offer! Rich

[SpiderGearsMan]

factory option on the H1/H2 Hummer ..had to change a couple

[SuperBuickGuy]

I have a loc-rite in my Skylark 12 bolt. Two things to consider. 1) they usually unlock when you turn a corner, usually. 2) they do not unlock if you're on the throttle - so jumping on the throttle coming out of a corner is just like driving a spool.

I've beat on mine, and it's come back for more - they're pretty stout little units.... just that unlocking thing can get a bit annoying.... however, for the price and easy of install - you'd be hard pressed to find a better value.

[Brian Lohnes]

I put a loc-rite in a 320hp 4x4 truck I had in college. I wheeled the piss out of the thing and never had any problems. Granted, the motor wasn't some hairy beast, but it worked good and took the abuse.

Agree with SBGs take on how it behaves while cornering.

[1931s/x]

i wanted to put one in my jeep and im hearing nothing good about them on the jeep stes.

[Bamfster]

I've used locrights forever. The last was an F250 w/turbo'd 7.3, had them front and rear. In a long wheelbase vehicle you don't even know they are there. There were several times I had to chain up all 4 tire to get thru and they never gave a bit of trouble.

I had a 94 chevy 1/2 ton with a no-slip in the rear, worked well on the street. The guys are right about it being "softer" on the street .... but.....I broke the no-slip off roading. Knocked a bunch of teeth off the side spacers.

All in all I wouldn't hesitate to run another.

[Orange65]

I have a lock right in my 65 C10- no complaints. Stood up to the 455 quite well.

[ChampTrucking]

Thanks for the replies! Like 31 S/X I too have been reading a lot of bad press on the Jeep sites,but I notice a lot of issues due to bent axle tubes.My friend has one in his 62 Lark powered by a aluminum headed 355 and a Tremec 5 speed and it has lasted at least 1000 miles. I am just harder on mine than he is on his. Time to make some bank and get it bought!

[Scott Liggett]

I have one in my 70 Caprice with a very torquey 454. It works fine. It does lock up in turns if I give it any kind of gas. It clicks on sharp turns. I have about 4000 miles on it.

Mine has come unlocked twice under full throttle runs. It relocked as soon as I let off the gas a bit. Not sure if the installer, me, is to blame. I never checked the side clearance before buttoning it up. One day I'll open it up and check things out.

[bulletproof]

i worked at a 4x4 shop for 16 years , hate to guess how many of these ive installed.. they are both decent units... 2 things that ive seen cause problems, 1 being a bent axle housing, common for jeeps with big tires, if the housing if bent very much it wont act right,,(ratchet under power)
the other thing is the stock case,, ive seen alot of cases break right where the cross pin goes through..
i had them in a dana 44 and amc 20 under a cj7 with 39'' boggers...it held up to some serious abuse..the axle shafts didnt though, but the loc-rites stayed together..the amc20 bent and the locker would ratchet while going straight down the road..no fun at highway speed...
when installing make sure the thrust washers on the side gears are in good shape.if they are worn replace them... when they lock and unlock you might feel and hear a clunk... not as bad with a auto trans,,,,,

[SuperBuickGuy]

i worked at a 4x4 shop for 16 years , hate to guess how many of these ive installed.. they are both decent units... 2 things that ive seen cause problems, 1 being a bent axle housing, common for jeeps with big tires, if the housing if bent very much it wont act right,,(ratchet under power)
the other thing is the stock case,, ive seen alot of cases break right where the cross pin goes through..
i had them in a dana 44 and amc 20 under a cj7 with 39'' boggers...it held up to some serious abuse..the axle shafts didnt though, but the loc-rites stayed together..the amc20 bent and the locker would ratchet while going straight down the road..no fun at highway speed...
when installing make sure the thrust washers on the side gears are in good shape.if they are worn replace them... when they lock and unlock you might feel and hear a clunk... not as bad with a auto trans,,,,,

all good advice, to that I add - make sure the cross pin is in good shape, everything depends on it.

[ChampTrucking]

Thanks for the added advice guys. I do appreciate it!