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  • Originally posted by Brian Lohnes View Post
    How's this for stupidity? Because the ignition is controlled in part by the awful feedback Q-Jet, normally I wouldn't be able to swap the carb, then the ignition. It would have to be a group deal. Well, I am heading to the junkyard tomorrow to try and find a damned vacuum operated HEI so I can really do this in steps. It may get used for one run. No one ever accused me of being the brightest guy in the room.
    Brian
    I think you'd want the vacuum HEI anyway so you can change the advance rate! Don't forget to grab a spring/weight kit!
    Will you have time to stab in the distributor at home and give it a quick recurve in the driveway with a buddy and dial back timing light? IIRC the advance curve is pretty lame in a stock HEI dist.
    Might not be a bad idea to get it out at home just from a removal standpoint. I've had a couple that were glued in pretty tight from years of neglect.

    I can't wait to see you tackle this! But what is in the plans for fine tuning? Unfortunately with just enough time to get the wrenching done...will you just prove that adding parts aren't enough, you have to tune it?

    Do you have access to a wide band O2 sensor? That would make things way easier! Although I'm not sure how effective it would be in the collector of an open header.

    You HAVE to get video of the open header cruise!

    Comment


    • FEAD = Front Engine Accessory Drive
      Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

      Comment


      • for the cost - get a set of cherry bomb type "collector mufflers"

        inquiring minds want to know how much they will affect the 1320 time compared to open headers....

        and

        they'll probably get you home without a noise violation ticket, and with some of your hearing intact.
        There's always something new to learn.

        Comment


        • Brian, I spent a good amount of time in Ron's car with open headers at GM Carlisle this year.

          TRUST ME, you don't want to drive all the way home like that. My ears hurt just thinking about it.
          I take photos.

          Comment


          • I know the pain as if I pull this off it will be the third trip home from NED I have made since I started going there with open headers. By the third day after the headaches usually stop.
            That which you manifest is before you.

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            • Isn't cherry bomb a site sponsor? Header mufflers FTW!

              BTW, Cherry bomb makes THE ONLY turbo style mufflers that will fit the falcon's abbreviated muffler area under the floor next to the frame conns, only 7.75" wide.
              There's always something new to learn.

              Comment


              • Well, the header issue has been rendered moot. Not in a negative way. Details to follow on that next week.
                That which you manifest is before you.

                Comment


                • No pipes at all, straight open heads, like a man!
                  Escaped on a technicality.

                  Comment


                  • I will mention that the solution costs roughly $50,000.
                    That which you manifest is before you.

                    Comment


                    • Alright, let's make this a somewhat productive discussion.

                      What order would you do this junk in?

                      Ignition system (new dist, coil, and MSD 6AL-2 box)

                      Carb (Q-Jet replacement Holley 650CFM)

                      Intake (Weiand Street Warrior)

                      Headers (Flowtech full length)

                      Camshaft (snotty COMP roller...factory roller engine)
                      (I am including rockers, pushrods, new lifters, springs, and timing set on this)


                      In my mind, I am thinking -

                      Ignition system
                      Carb
                      Intake
                      Headers
                      Cam/valvetrain

                      I am thinking about getting the new coil and MSD box in and prepped so I can stab the new distributor in, plug in the box, and roll.
                      The carb swap, because it is the Q-jet replacement is a direct, and I mean direct bolt on. Factory fuel line doesn't even need to be altered.
                      The intake is tricky because it is going to have to go on and come off when I do the cam. No way around that. Think I can reuse the gaskets if they have only been on there for a couple hours max?
                      Headers - only concern is breaking a manifold bolt off to where I can't get at it. Pretty much torpedo'd if that happens.

                      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                      My thought is to get all that done on Saturday and on Saturday evening pull the motor down, swap the springs, yank the radiator, and get ready to stab the cam in, install the new timing set, new pushrods, rocker arms, and bolt it all back up.

                      If it rains, I am 100% boned but I have a backup plan, which would be to do all of this same stupidity, but on a chassis dyno. Not as cool as the strip, but would still be neat to measure power gains.

                      New England Dragway closes on 10/31 so margin for error is pretty much 0.

                      Tuning time was asked about. There is none. This would be more of an exercise in seeing what stuff does right out of the box and then going back in the spring and actually tweaking, tuning, and honing in on max performance.

                      ------------------------------

                      I literally cannot find a vacuum advance in a yard around here. Nothing old enough. The search continues tomorrow.
                      That which you manifest is before you.

                      Comment


                      • Seems like a good plan. As long as you got 2 bolts holding the headers I'd call it good enough, not like you'll hear the exhaust leak over the open headers. If the bolt binds up in the hole when it snaps, surely you can exert some violence with a pry bar and hammer to coax it off.
                        Escaped on a technicality.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Brian Lohnes View Post
                          Alright, let's make this a somewhat productive discussion.

                          What order would you do this junk in?

                          Ignition system (new dist, coil, and MSD 6AL-2 box)

                          Carb (Q-Jet replacement Holley 650CFM)

                          Intake (Weiand Street Warrior)

                          Headers (Flowtech full length)

                          Camshaft (snotty COMP roller...factory roller engine)
                          (I am including rockers, pushrods, new lifters, springs, and timing set on this)


                          In my mind, I am thinking -

                          Ignition system
                          Carb
                          Intake
                          Headers
                          Cam/valvetrain

                          I am thinking about getting the new coil and MSD box in and prepped so I can stab the new distributor in, plug in the box, and roll.
                          The carb swap, because it is the Q-jet replacement is a direct, and I mean direct bolt on. Factory fuel line doesn't even need to be altered.
                          The intake is tricky because it is going to have to go on and come off when I do the cam. No way around that. Think I can reuse the gaskets if they have only been on there for a couple hours max?
                          Headers - only concern is breaking a manifold bolt off to where I can't get at it. Pretty much torpedo'd if that happens.
                          The gaskets need to be lubed or they'll likely stick and tear when they come back apart if they are paper. The printed rubber felpro's are probably re-usable. I'm not sure for 20.00 that I would take the chance?

                          I never had a problem with getting Chevy exhaust bolts OUT at the heads - it was keeping them in that was my problem. PB them now and see if they'll turn loose while it's in the driveway. The y-pipe will be another story I'm sure. I'd plan on sawzall and pull the pipe with the old manifold. Save your patience and knucles.

                          Can you get headers in there without lifting the engine?

                          Agreeed on the dizzy, may want to do that in advance too just to make sure it will come out.

                          It's in town at stoplights and stuff that open headers give you the headache. About 60 or so, they're not so bad with a stock compression 350.
                          Last edited by Beagle; October 19, 2012, 01:39 AM.
                          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                          Comment


                          • I've had several of these caprices. Even if you notch it an inch of the top of the cross member there just isn't room for header midday. You'll want to re- enforce the crossmember . The easiest way is 1/2 inch flat steel stock 3"x8" or so . Now you can run a 2.5 inch pipe if you oval it a little . This will give you room to run straight pipe and glass packs that I know of. Possibly Tunis. Second gen camaro headers will almost fall in.
                            Previously HoosierL98GTA

                            Comment


                            • In all your free time, can you get a good idea of what the current advance curve is in the stock distributor?

                              After the swap check the same on the new distributor. If you keep the initial advance on both - the biggest difference will be the advance curve. It could be as simple as "old - 10 initial, 28 total, in by 3800" "new - 10 initial, 34 total, in by 3000"

                              After all if you replace the oem HEI with another OEM HEI and they're both functioning the same - the change should be nothing - right?

                              Would it be easier to get an aftermarket (likely chinese) HEI instead of scrounging the yards? I bet they're on ebay for $45ish
                              There's always something new to learn.

                              Comment


                              • I've used one of these Skip White HEI distributors in a cheap build.
                                Worked fine and I've spun that motor to 5 grand many times. 49.99-57.99 shipped. Although the weight posts were goofed up and it was a bit of a pain to recurve.
                                http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/...roduct=A&Sub=A

                                Man...seems like somebody you know local would have one an old HEI laying around you could barrow...?
                                Last edited by andy30thz; October 19, 2012, 05:49 AM.

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