Bench Race This, Dragsters........

[TC]

So call me crazy and all over the board, but I've been looking over at RacingJunk.com and there are some real reasonably priced dragsters........So here's the question if you were looking at getting into running a dragster, what would be an entry level Class that you could run??........Also on the dragster itself, what's the benefits of a longer or shorter wheelbase, I've noticed that they range form 200" to 300".........While at the track this past weekend my friend and I noticed a lot of dragster there running a big block with a single carb and they had automatic transmissions, what class are they running in??

So how would you do it??......

And hell I'd be up for wrapping one in the BS colors and calling it the forum dragster...........

[yellomalibu]

Most of the time when you see a dragster at the local drag strip, they are running "Super Pro".

The old school dragsters were hard tails. Frame rails all welded up, no suspension.
There are also "slip tube" dragsters, where (I believe) a couple frame rails slip inside another one, unwelded, to allow some give.
There are now lots of 4 link dragsters. They don't bounce off the starting line, and don't bounce when braking while stopping after the burnout. Very consistent (which is the name of the game).

I have seen a dragster or two in the "pro" or "sportsman" class, which is a footbrake class - no trans brake, no electronics (delay box)... but most people who have spent the money on a dragster run in Super Pro. At Orlando, Super pro costs $30 to enter and pays $1000 to win. Sportsman costs $25 to enter and only pays $300 to win. <-- That is why I switched to Super Pro. My car was fast enough to run in the class, why would I beat on it for peanuts? Also, dragsters are pretty light weight... in the foot brake class, you often aren't allowed to run faster than 10.00 - hard to get a dragster to run that slow without electronics (throttle stop).

[Brian Lohnes]

TC, good observation on the power plants. The vast majority of dragsters running in Super Comp (8.90 class) and Super Pro (dial your own), are BBC powered on alky or race gas with a single carb and a Powerglide transmission. That is the most economical way to run those classes. Moving up a notch, if I had a dragster, I would run Top Dragster which is a super fast bracket class (like 6-second dial ins). The field qualifies on ET so in qualifying you run the thing balls out and then in eliminations you dial in and run like a bracket race. In that class you'll find big inch big blocks and lots of nitrous. There are some guys who run blowers and stuff, but a 555-600ci engine, twin dominators, and a stage or two of spray and you are looking at a 6.70-6.90 car that can repeat run after run.
It is impressive to see 200mph cars repeat over and over again.


I would get a suspended car if I were buying one, although the hard tails were certainly functional and will probably sell a lot cheaper on the used market. Also you need to be careful with buying a used dragster now because as chassis rules have changed, lots of older cars will only cert to 7.50 and you'll need to have the driver's area of the chassis updated.

You are a big dude, so that is another consideration. Finding a car that "fits" you is important as well.

[yellomalibu]

Oh yeah, btw... you're crazy.

It'd probably be a lot cheaper to finish your Camaro to go drag racing.

[Ron Ward]

Super Pro and Super Comp... where all the "big block Chevys on a stick" come to play.


Ron

[John Brewer]

Make sure that when you go looking for a car that you have all your driving gear on, including HANS if applicable. What might fit you when you have street clothes on might not fit with driving gear.

On Brian's point about chassis cert., if you are looking at a car that someone says will cert, to 6.00 or has an old 6.00 tag, have them get it done before purchasing or have a contingency of purchase that the purchase will not go through if it doesn't cert.. the rules have just changed in the last year or so. As someone who ran into this, I know as my car will not cert. to 6.00 any longer.

Alos, with door cars, anyone who tries to sell anyone a car that they say is 25.1 and have a square tube chassis is not correct. there are no tags for square tube cars with the 25.1 stciker,. Round tube only. The person who cert. my car a few weeks ago just ran into this on a newly purchased car from another division that evidently the inspector wasn't up on the rules and he immediately tore off the sticker and the purchaser now has to try and get his money back from the seller. Unfortunate, but true.

[JeffMcKC]

Kind of a boring ride at 8.90

Top Dragster is where its at and Cubic Bucks.

The Recerts and updates will kill our pocket book.

Its a killer class to be in, the 8.90 guys are Sharks and your a Dolphin.......

[Bamfster]

How easy are those things to drive on the street?

[TC]

I guess Super Comp would be the way to go if your looking at getting into the sport.....8.90's in a rail would be plenty fast for me as a beginner and it seems like it would be some cheap fun, since most of those guys run the same motor all season long......

And what's with the length of the cars??......Is longer better??........

[TC]

Its a killer class to be in, the 8.90 guys are Sharks and your a Dolphin.......

Hey even a Dolphin can beat a shark up sometimes.....

And you got to start somewhere.............

[Ron Ward]

I am NOT trying to steer you away from a Super Comp ride, but understand this: It is in NO way cheap. And if you want to be competitive with the likes of Gary Stinnett, Matt Driskell, Tommy Phillips, Luke Bogacki, Pete Biondo, Sheldon Gecker, and a host of other mega-skilled and talented S/C drivers, you better bring your A-game. These guys mean business and it is no place for the meek.


Ron

[Silver68RT]

I have a front engine dragster. When I bought it, I had dreams of making it into a Jr Fueler with an injected small block and running Goodguys nostalgia events or Comp eliminator A/ND in NHRA. Quickly realized that was way out of my league. No way could I afford to build an engine that would even qualify for those classes. So I figured I'd just bracket race it. Took me a couple of years to get the car sorted out to the point that I got it re-certified, all the safety equipment up to date, and me to the point where I felt comfortable making a full pass. I got an IHRA license, ran 8.94 @ 145 on my 2nd licensing run. It was a lot of fun, but I haven't been out since I got my license. It's got a 400 Chevy small block with a tunnel ram and a PG.

I got busy at work and with other projects, my track switched from IHRA to NHRA, and the chassis cert has expired again, along with all the safety gear. It would probably cost at least a couple grand, maybe even 3 or 4 to run it again. Dragster means lots of safety gear, including a fire suit, and that stuff's not cheap. It was always a pain finding guys to come to the track to help. I enjoyed running it, it's a huge adrenaline rush, but now it's an expensive piece of garage art. Make sure it's something you really want to do, have the time to do, have the money to do, and it would be good to have some reliable friends who will help you out at the track.

[SpiderGearsMan]

high dollar bracket racing

[TC]

I am NOT trying to steer you away from a Super Comp ride, but understand this: It is in NO way cheap. And if you want to be competitive with the likes of Gary Stinnett, Matt Driskell, Tommy Phillips, Luke Bogacki, Pete Biondo, Sheldon Gecker, and a host of other mega-skilled and talented S/C drivers, you better bring your A-game. These guys mean business and it is no place for the meek.


Ron

Would Super Pro be better??

And by Cheap I mean it'd be cheaper that running a Nitro Dragster and a lot safer....... And there are some pretty good deals on complete setups with cars and trailers that are already to go.......

[Brian Lohnes]

Yeah, by a lot. Dial your own racing is not easy by any stretch but it is the place to start to hone your skills and them move into an index class or something of that nature.