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  • Who's got the best Oil...

    Since y'all know so much about what car is best... I can't wait to hear what you think the oil of choice is...

    Here's my opinion first...

    The Best Oil is that which you change at regular intervals... Brand, type, spec's... mean virtually NOTHING if you don't change it often and if you do.... Brand means virtually nothing....

    I don't care if it's Valvoline, quakerstate... so on and so forth.... just change the junk and life is good....

    Racing Oils are different and frankly we try and run a synthetic simply because David's proven it's better for HP and he likes it for durability.... ( his engines, he gets to pick )

    What say you guys.... Remember... Be Civil....

  • #2
    I don't get but a few days and am reminded of the quicklube I worked at.
    routines kept coming back. same cars..about 40 a day.

    I found the same. nothing matters.
    Some engines (I run one), the oil has to stay in longer...not sure if its titanium or what. Just an engine that don't like alot of intervals. probably part of the 1980s mid 30 mpg engineering.

    what makes me mad is filters. I could not wait to spend too much on a billet reusable. Greatest thing I have ever done.

    I did learn some oils do what they say. pennzoil with a 40% cleaning label..wow. they meant it. Awesome on EGR type engines.

    synthetic does not like much to do what it claims..but they all have their perfect match.

    I like organic.

    I am actually thinking of engines and oil. the little hondas when synthetic came out. They love each other. I still think they got a heads up on alot of things before they happened. not many engines care about syntheic. my own subaru makes plastic with synthetic.
    Last edited by Barry Donovan; July 2, 2012, 11:27 PM.
    Previously boxer3main
    the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

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    • #3
      I agree with you Keith.

      Although I'll run synthetic for a longer time, say 10k-15k miles in an engine that doesn't burn it.
      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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      • #4
        Royal Purple is my oil of choice when it comes to the performance engines...... Rotella in the diesel and whatever the dealer gives with free oil changes in the suburban, which I change about every 3000 miles..........

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        • #5
          Who the hell knows which oil is the best? It's not your car will run like dog crap with one oil over the other. I buy the cheapest, usually the store brands, but I've been buying Valvoline VR1 for the Caprice with it's flat tappet cam. It's about $2.00 more per quart than the cheap stuff, but buying a separate bottle of Zinc additive is a minimum of $15.00; so, it's cheaper just to buy the VR1.
          BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

          Resident Instigator

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          • #6
            I WILL say Penzoil really sucks!
            Why?.... Mom's 78 Cougar with the 302, or was it 351? No matter..
            5 days a week freeways, 90 miles round trip.. City blocks 5 on each end. Weekends.. Half freeway half country roads..all places where the oil warms up good.. Proper oil changes, Dad insisted PENNZOIL.. 140K, needing rebuilt (dad thought. Old school, cars last 100K)
            The lifter galleys and crank case area was full of half inch SLUDGE... Mom drove fast too..

            I use anything but Pennzoil.. In all my veihcles. Semi relegious about changes.. No sludge in any of mine..

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            • #7
              I've found the Best Oil is the kind I only have to top off every now and then.
              The oil in my daily somehow discards and removes itself in some mysterious way when it has done it's thing in there...
              www.BigBlockMopar.com

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              • #8
                To remain civil per Keith's rules....and Keith's rules rule...

                I don't know beans about any of it. I took some advice from lots of folks and got Mobil 1 juiced into Red for the Mile run.

                But historically, over the years Quaker State has a bad reputation through the grapevine. Really bad. More than one car guy told me that stuff clumps up and grunges the block and heads and makes everything go bad over time. When I was traveling by bicycle, I'd oil my chain with whatever was in the garbage can at the gas station. The last drips left over. I actually thought a few times....Quaker State? - do I want to put this on my bicycle chain?

                But I certainly don't understand it. I mean really. Isn't oil just oil? At least it should be. No, I don't understand it, the difference, if there is one.
                Charter member of the Turd Nuggets

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                • #9
                  I use Brad Penn........the green stuff.
                  It's a 50/50 blend and has lots of zinc in it.

                  When I had the 427 in the '70 Nova, I tried Mobile 1.
                  I couldn't get the small leaks to stop.
                  Switched back to regular oil and leaks stopped.
                  Thom

                  "The object is to keep your balls on the table and knock everybody else's off..."

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Monk View Post
                    I use Brad Penn........the green stuff.
                    It's a 50/50 blend and has lots of zinc in it.

                    When I had the 427 in the '70 Nova, I tried Mobile 1.
                    I couldn't get the small leaks to stop.
                    Switched back to regular oil and leaks stopped.

                    Soooo .... oil leaks are oil leaks. Maybe Mobil 1 is more viscous?

                    I'm sure no mechanic, but if there's a leak, it leaks.
                    Charter member of the Turd Nuggets

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                    • #11
                      Oh boy 1 of my favorite subjects!
                      No off the shelf oil has enough zink for a hydrolic cam especially the mythical "Shell Rotella"
                      Vavoline VR1 is as close as you get.
                      Comp Cams, Penn, Gibbs have the ingredients you need.
                      Running synthetic is a dumb move in an older style engine, why?
                      Because older engines have looser tolerances and need thicker oil to compensate as where LT1/LS1 style are built tighter and as before the cams don't need wear additive .
                      The old saying is "thin oil is for 5 second cars"
                      What I run? Qastrol 10W40 and Comp Cams additive. And lately have been adding ZMax to the oil and the engine seems to start and run smoother.
                      One time I ran cheap "EXXON" oil and had to stop in the "middle" (if you know what I mean) of Louisville Kentucky and change the oil due to zero oil pressure

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by peewee View Post
                        Soooo .... oil leaks are oil leaks. Maybe Mobil 1 is more viscous?

                        I'm sure no mechanic, but if there's a leak, it leaks.
                        I've heard about the synthetic oils being more likely to leak about as much as I've heard about the old Quaker State sludging up... I heard it was because it was a paraffin based oil.

                        This is a neat myth vs fact website:

                        Yes, it's a Havoline product, so I am cynical that some info may be slanted - but a neat read nonetheless.

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                        • #13
                          Tried Mobil 1 in the Jeeps, they don't like it, it thins out quickly.
                          I run Mobil Clean 5000 now Super 5000 in both Jeeps, it works good, holds good oil pressure between changes.
                          I rebuilt wife's TJ 2.5 motor .020 over, the ring gaps are a smidge bigger, & it uses a little oil after 3k miles.
                          I run whatever oil I find in the trunks of junk cars in the S-10. The S-10 don't care as long as it HAS oil.
                          I've used Napa brand oil, it's rebadged Valvoline.
                          Walmart Supertech oil is ok too, surprisingly so are their filters.
                          I haven't decided what to use in the dune buggy motor.
                          Might go with Brad Penn, or maybe regular oil & add some Redline additive to it...

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                          • #14
                            I tend to over-simplify things. It's got some oil. it's got some gas in it. Drive it.
                            Charter member of the Turd Nuggets

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                            • #15
                              I just love this discussion cause it's honestly so far on the wrong side of the decimal point when it comes to our junk.... honestly I've never worn out an oil in a race engine....

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