Originally posted by Deaf Bob
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You have to realize, on old engines with carbs and distributors, the "tuning" most people think they are doing, is simply "nudging" the advance curve into the right base location, and same with the carburetor - it comes with a fuel curve already, you are simply raising and lowering it to match that particular engine's wants.
Although I do agree that nose, eyes and ears (you must miss those!) are the most important tools in your arsenal.
On modern EFI engines, the engine is looking for the exact same thing as a carb'd / distributor'd engine would be looking for: the proper fuel quantity to match the air going in, spark at the proper time depending on load/rpm, the proper "pump shot" for accel enrichment depending on load/rpm.
The problem is, on the EFI engine you are REALLY doing the tuning, you can control the fuel in any quantity you want (and the injectors and fuel system allow). You can easily add enough fuel to fill the cylinders full of fuel and hydro-lock the engine. With no distributor, there's no safety mechanism from preventing you trying to run 80* BTDC (because your Nitro buddies made you think it would be the "cool" thing to do, seen that already).
That being said, with an OEM tuning system like HP Tuners, one DOES have the "factory tune" on which millions of dollars were spent, as a baseline / reference. Use that just like the Carb and Dizzy "tuners" (chuckle) use the baseline tune that comes in their carbs and dizzies.
I always love seeing professional carb tuners try their hand at EFI. They never realized that they really are professional "Nudgers" and that tuning from scratch is quite a different deal without Holley and Edelbrock doing 90% of the work for you.
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