Cheap Paint job, DIY style.

[Thumpin455]

Phil doesnt have enough mask there to protect from some stuff in hardeners... Just saying. The results of getting sensitized to some of that stuff is unpleasant at the very least. Cheap paint isnt too bad, but you have to know what is in the stuff you add to it, and its effects on you if exposed, and have the right protection for it. I learned the hard way and I had lots more respirator than that..

I dont know if an airless sprayer would work very well, would be a pain to clean up after so I hope its cheap. Ive never used one, even though there are two of them in the shop from the guy who used to live here. As long as you get nice even coats that are just thin enough to lay down, yet thick enough to cover it, it will look ok. Its when it isnt thin enough or too thin that you get crappy results.. or with crappy rattle can paint it wont matter after 3 or 4 months.

[Barry Donovan]

being central florida, the makeup of acrylic (a dirty word for the north) will apply as the hawaiian chemists invention intended.

interesting to add hardener to armour coat..will remember that.

I have yet to wander far from very expensive two part urethane and a 200F baking job.

..and cheap guns do work..if not, add a filter/separater to the imperfection. I have a cheap one, 1.6 nozzle..love it.

[BBR]

I painted a Ranger once with a Wagner power painter. Actually worked very well.

[milner351]

I would look into the tip size on the gun and make sure it jives with what s/w intends for the product. I'm a big fan of s/w stuff - I've used very similar products on garage floors with great results.

Another vote for the HF HVLP gun - but again - test spray on some cardboard or something to make sure you're not ending up with a bad combination - it will probably take some fiddling with air pressure / tip size - and I'm not sure that stuff will be thin enough to spray with the tip that comes with a cheap HF gun. I sprayed rustoleum on an oil tank with the $14 HF gun, but I thinned with laquer thinner first per the instructions, the results were not impressive.

[rightpedal]

The graco gun you have and the power painter are not in the same league. The graco will lay down a hell of a paint job. I think you might need to have the gun serviced if it is pulsing. The one I used produced a dead smooth fan. The guns motor did pulse a bit but the fan was perfect. You are going to have to thin the dtm stuff watch out using penetrol it is a great idea on the horizontal surfaces but on the verts it will run really bad.

These guys will have everything you ever wanted to know about this kind of paint work.

http://rolledon.forummotion.com/

I paint a lot of trim and cabinets with my HVLP gun ($60 sata ripoff) I primarily use three products.... the standard latex Pittsburgh manor hall trim semi-gloss white. It gets cut 20-25% with water (well more than mfg recommendations) but I have had no problems with pealing or adhesion. A cabinet grade waterbase enamel by california paints that goes on much the same as the trim paint. Both end up dead smooth but the sheen is slightly less than a non cut brushed application. The third is classic rustolium gloss (I have shot black, red, and white) You are going to have to play with the thinning agent. Acetone cuts dry time for under coats and basic thinner extends dry time. Either way it takes a bit of time to flash/surface dry so there id definitely going that bug that dies after a walkabout.



This my truck with a 50/50 gloss/flat mix of rustolium


Steve
I will pm you my # if you have any questions

[yellomalibu]

Thanks Steve.

I did first coat this morning.

The DTM says you can thin it 12%. I thinned it only 5% due to fear of the adhesion issues.

I should have waited for a morning that wasn't 100% humidity. I THOUGHT that it would give it a few extra minutes to lay down... but it gave it a few extra minutes to develop sags, instead.

Do I need to show pics of my failure? Yeah, I guess I do. I'll post them later. I have to get to work now.

[yellomalibu]

In this shot, you can see the stripes where I overlapped the spray pattern. It sagged/ ran in each of the overlapped areas after I took this shot. *edit* Looking at the pic closer, those aren't overlapped areas. I just put the paint on too heavy AND spaced the lines too far apart.



In this shot, you can actually see the runs. They got worse before the paint set.



This side actually looks pretty good. The paint was still wet in these shots, and didn't dry quite so glossy, but it will be fine if I can get the whole thing painted without runs.

[tardis454]

Needs one of these now.

[yellomalibu]

Oh, I'm not done yet.
I will razor blade and/or sand the runs out, then make another attempt at this.
This morning was a learning experience. I learned 2 things:
1. Don't paint on a foggy morning.
2. Back up a bit further with the gun or move a bit faster with it.

This stuff will lay down; I don't need to put it on thick or do it in slow drying conditions.

[DirtyWhiteBoy]

A little sanding a little buffing it will look beautimus!(if that paint will buff!?!)
If your going to squirt it again, stand back more than you think you need to; move forward as needed.
If you "fog"the first coat in an area, the next pass usually clings better (it seems like it to me). LIGHT coats and patients is the trick.
If you spray until shiny and slick.......well you know. Also most paints i've used should be at least dry enough to LIGHTLY touch before re-coating. I often use a tac cloth between coats. That's all depending on paint of course.

[Teddyzee]

You know what? It's white and will get occasional use, not too bad!

[Beagle]

^^ x2

I've never been able to razor blade a run without it looking worse than the run and then requiring a ton of work. If you lay down another coat or two, need more pics. It looks painted to me though.

[rightpedal]

I forgot to add that I usually lay down a couple of coats that I don't care about sheen wise. Sand between coats and go for a nice glossy semi thick final once there are no more zebra stripes.

I admire your ambition trying to single coat over brown. Sound like you and I have the same patience level.

Steve

[yellomalibu]

Lol - ambition. Yeah, I don't know what I was thinking. I've been sanding on it already this morning, getting the runs and the sags flat. Since I have gone past the "re-coat" time, I'm going to sand the whole thing again with 320... Probably shoot it again Sunday.

Is "sanding on it" a southern thing? Would the rest of the country simply have said they were "sanding it" ?

I'll post a couple pics of the dried runs in a bit.

[yellomalibu]

I started sanding the runs and then thought you guys deserve to see them. The top run I had almost sanded out when I came to this realization.


There were more on other parts of the topper. These were the worst of them.



This product seems to act like Pro Classic, which I use a lot. If I hadn't picked a foggy, cool morning AND if I would have had a fan moving air around, I bet the results would have been a LOT better.
- but - I will take Steve's advice and go thinner on the first couple coats.