Originally posted by jcharliem
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Bench race this combo
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Originally posted by TC View PostMath buddy, Math......... You right there are variables, but for the most part the math gets you in the ball park.........
And I used to think like you, but after taking other peoples results and comparing them to the Calculators and seeing basically the same results from the calculators as they were getting in real life, I realized that the calculators are pretty close to predicting what the outcome will be.......
The caculators might get you close, and I use the term close pretty loosely. Sure a 500 hp engine in a 3000lb car "should" run 10's, but for every "one" you hear about on the internet there are probably 100 you didn't hear about that run 13's.
You are right about the math though, it's just that there aren't any caculators that take into account "all of it". There is so much math, geometry, physics, and science that are going on it's hard to predict how each one effects the other.
Just ask someone how long it takes to science out a ride. It's not as easy as plugging in a few numbers and hitting enter. What do you do if the car goes faster?Originally posted by TCalso boost will make the cam act smaller
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Originally posted by Beagle View PostLove your reply, I laughed like hell. Okay, you caught me. I'm full of shit... but... My MC's both felt like big fat pigs compared to a 3200 pound Mustang GT. The 88 did have the hair band cassettes in a giant storage locker in the back seat, electric everything, and only missed the T-Tops. Mom's 80 GP had t-tops and felt heavy too, so did her Hurst Olds (87 I believe). It's probably my bad memory, I never weighed it. The 80 turbo v6 car I put a 350 in ran pretty strong with a really mild motor in it though. Sorry, didn't mean to call your car fat. I like fat butt cars, so it wasn't an insult.
The head size didn't bother me so much as the duration with 10.5:1 , I was just thinking you'll be happier with a smaller cam. The one you spec'd may be pretty low cranking compression and be less snappy on the street than a smaller cam. Same for the smaller heads - dangit, now I can't remember who has the 195's on a 406 that's a pretty haul-ass car here. Yellowmalibu?
On the stroker, take a look at the cap screw rod articles. I had read something recently with a 3 7/8 stroke in a 350, had to go look:
none of it's cheap. lol. A stock 305 rebuild isn't cheap when you get through adding everything up!
You should link back to your project... I remember you doing a man pedal but not what transmission.
The official Bangshift garage door guru. Just about anything can be built using garage door parts, trust me.
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Originally posted by A/Fuel View PostI don't see how you can just say I have an engine that makes x ammount of hp and a car that weighs x ammount therefore it should run this et. Hp and weight are big factors for sure but, track condition, elevation, weather, aero/drag, chassis set up, and driving style....just to name a few, all come into play.
dispersal of static pressures, it is fun to learn the hard way...way more not written than written, because it cannot be.
I believe in maximizing a number ..always chassis.
I have yet to see how much my ricer lost adding a sheet 4x8 and much more, 40 pounds of mig..
a tricky game some manufacture play to claim heavy.
did you know a hot cup of coffee ways more than a cold..even though the same cup, and amount of fluid?
weak steel buzzing along can fake a wait...hard steel, perhaps heavier..can add up to be lighter than the buzzing one...
biggest messup in cars for many years.
yesterdays 300hp in a hard unibody today = very big engine.
I even got a slob of an old stereotyped boxer engine buzzing like a pack of bees, hard body does most of it.Last edited by Barry Donovan; December 7, 2012, 04:15 PM.Previously boxer3main
the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.
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