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  • Roll bar thru the cab questions

    On the gasser truck we are building it has been determined we want to run rear down tubes from the main hoop. This will require running them thru the cab sheet metal or thru the back window. The cab is a 5 window and the rear window is narrower than the spread of the frame rails. To keep everything in line it will have to run thru the sheet metal. So my question is does anyone know of a rubber grommet that can be used to weather proof the pass thru? We tossed around welding and finishing it but any frame flex will just ruin the paint and body work. So any ideas or prior examples??? Thanks for the help!! Rich

  • #2
    There's always the slit hose trick. Cut a length of fuel (or similar) hose to the approximate length of the OD of the hole, slit it down the outside (hose usually has a curl from the reel), and slide it over the sheet metal. It'll take some maneuvering to get it in place but it works. I usually use 3/8" hose for a hole with a decent sized OD like this will be, and I put the gap at the bottom.

    Another thought would be a fuel filler gasket like for an old truck (where the fill tube goes thru the body) but I think the center hole would be too big.

    Dan
    Last edited by DanStokes; January 16, 2013, 07:44 AM.

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    • #3
      How about a modified shifter boot or CV shaft boot?

      Just throwing ideas out...


      Ron
      It's really no different than trying to glue them back on after she has her way.

      Comment


      • #4
        Can you show a pic of the area on the cab where you expect the bars to come through? I have a few ideas (google flexible water tight grommets) but need to know if the cab sheetmetal will be flat or if it will be on a curved surface.


        Ron
        It's really no different than trying to glue them back on after she has her way.

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        • #5
          Some good ideas. I think it will be curved Ron,but that remains to be seen. He has to choose what seat combo first,then plan the cage other than the main hoop that is. This ought to be fun....

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          • #6
            there is a large grommet that fits between the filler tube and the tank on my plymouth that I bet would work really well in this application.

            see if this link works and this will give you an idea of what I am talking about..

            If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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            • #7
              I've done this a lot.....I'll see if I can find some pics.....easiest and coolest way is inner tube and some 1/8 aluminum plate....I basically make a double sided shifter boot...I use 8-32 counter sunk stainless hardware to clamp it down.....I use rubber on the inside and outside for a double seal. Instead of inner tube I use industrial rubber sheet....I get it from CIR out here but truck tube works just as well....
              The Beatings will continue until MORALE IMPROVES !!!!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Chassisman View Post
                I've done this a lot.....I'll see if I can find some pics.....easiest and coolest way is inner tube and some 1/8 aluminum plate....I basically make a double sided shifter boot...I use 8-32 counter sunk stainless hardware to clamp it down.....I use rubber on the inside and outside for a double seal. Instead of inner tube I use industrial rubber sheet....I get it from CIR out here but truck tube works just as well....
                clever, almost like an aircraft vibration isolater....

                If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Chassisman View Post
                  I've done this a lot.....I'll see if I can find some pics.....easiest and coolest way is inner tube and some 1/8 aluminum plate....I basically make a double sided shifter boot...I use 8-32 counter sunk stainless hardware to clamp it down.....I use rubber on the inside and outside for a double seal. Instead of inner tube I use industrial rubber sheet....I get it from CIR out here but truck tube works just as well....

                  This is the RIGHT way to do it. If you just do a grommet, it's only going to wear out quick. You will be surprised how much movement between the cab and bar you're going to get. We fought this on Parish's truck at Drag Week. Definitely do what Chassisman is recommending, it'll not only weatherproof but it'll last. Grommets will fail completely.
                  www.realtuners.com - catch the RealTuners Radio Podcast on Youtube, Facebook, iTunes, and anywhere else podcasts are distributed!

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                  • #10
                    How much gap do you need to keep it from binding?
                    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                    PB 60' 1.49
                    ​​​​​​

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                    • #11
                      I think I'll try Chassismans method on the S-10. They go thru the back window and it would be nice to seal it up.

                      Dan

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                      • #12
                        This is how the Lightning guys do it. This is what will probably be in my truck eventually.

                        Core Supports, Rhodes Custom Auto, x275, Ron Rhodes, Ronny Rhodes, Seat Brackets, Door Hinges, Roll Cages
                        I R Bob
                        You can't drink all day unless you start in the morning!
                        2007 LH, 2008 LH, 2009 LH, 2010 LH, 2011 LH, 2012 DNF/BLOW'D UP, 2013 LH, 2014 LH

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by BluLightning View Post
                          This is how the Lightning guys do it. This is what will probably be in my truck eventually.

                          http://www.rhodescustomauto.com/ericeldreth.htm
                          Thats pretty much exactly how I've been doing them since 1992......his bar set up is nice.....but I'd land the side bar on a 3x2 outrigger....little more surface area contacting the frame....on a hard roll that curve could collapse and the main hoop could fold over.....not likely but if it did it would be ugly...
                          Last edited by Chassisman; January 16, 2013, 06:19 PM.
                          The Beatings will continue until MORALE IMPROVES !!!!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Chassisman View Post
                            Thats pretty much exactly how I've been doing them since 1992......his bar set up is nice.....but I'd land the side bar on a 3x2 outrigger....little more surface area contacting the frame....on a hard roll that curve could collapse and the main hoop could fold over.....not likely but if it did it would be ugly...
                            Good to know for when I get that far.
                            I R Bob
                            You can't drink all day unless you start in the morning!
                            2007 LH, 2008 LH, 2009 LH, 2010 LH, 2011 LH, 2012 DNF/BLOW'D UP, 2013 LH, 2014 LH

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                            • #15
                              Pretty much geometry.. How angles and curves react with force upon a spot..
                              To play and test your theory, gas weld coat hangers in your roll cage configuration, then mimic the roll or crash forces..
                              It will bend easy.. If it doesn't.. Then you have a strong cage.. But the point is it bends easy enough to observe what happens thus you can figure if your set-up will work..

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