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Grainger, like mcmaster carr, graybar, etc, has an amazing selection and usually has a ton in stock if there's a store near you. I can stop on my way home at the one north of the airport and with my Ford ID we get 10 or 15% off.
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Ron, I'm an electrician. T12 manufacturing ceased as of last June or July. What's left is old inventory, when gone, that's it. Forget HID because the slightest blink in power, the lights have to restrike. I'd stick with 4' T8's (F32T8). T5's are slightly more effecient but more expensive. T8's are common as dirt and pretty cheap. The new electronic ballasts will work on 120, 208, 240 or 277 volts. No need to get the right voltage. While not specifically intended for cold weather, they work much better i. Colder weather then a rapid start T12. The outdoor T12's were high output and expensive!
When you buy T8's, get the 3500K bulbs not the 2400 or 4100k. The 3500K gives off a more natural lightTomOverdrive is overrated
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Tom - do you have a brand preference - or a brand to stay away from?
The new shop has old 4ft fixtures, they appear to be quality pieces, so they maybe worth swapping in new electronic ballasts - and - they're against the finished ceiling built in, so - swapping the entire fixture will present other challenges.Last edited by milner351; January 23, 2013, 10:20 AM.There's always something new to learn.Comment
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Originally posted by milner351 View Post
No particular brand, they're all the same. We have some schools with programable Lutron ballasts, $100 a pop! Stick to cheap. If they're nice fixtures, sure install electronic ballast as well as new sockets if needed. Repaint the diffusers with glossy white paint which is some where in the order of 96% to 98% efficient in reflecting light compared to those expensive anodised reflectors that are used in retro kits.TomOverdrive is overrated
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Thanks Tom - during the inspections I found that several of the fixtures were flickering and several bulbs where out - I'll plan on swapping in electronic ballast and T8s throughout - another thing to put on the list.
here's a 10 pack on ebay...
Last edited by milner351; January 23, 2013, 12:55 PM.There's always something new to learn.Comment
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Originally posted by milner351 View Post
A few other great things about electronic ballast besides variable voltages is the number of tube they'll run. With the old magnetics you had to get the right one for the number of tubes you were running. Now that really doesn't matter. You can get a 4 tube ballast and it'll run just 1 tube. They also work on a wide range of tube sizes to boot.
The only issue with those on your link which is really a minor point, they'll run a maximum of 3 tubes. Fine if you have 3 tubes or less.
The Lutrons I was telling you about, there is a light sensor in the ceiling which reads the amount of light in the room. I can program the fixtures by the widows to be dimmer to save energy. When I replace one, there's at least a dozen wires, I need to record the old serial number on the bad ballast as well as the serial number on the new one. I have a Palm Pilot to communicate with the light sensor on the ceiling. I enter the old serial number as well as the new serial number then transmit. Now, the school is less then 4 years old, I've replaced at least 30 inthat time and that's a conservative number. So $3000 in ballasts. Have I saved $3000 in electric on those ballasts? I have no idea, but I wouldn't bet on it. So where's the savings?TomOverdrive is overrated
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I forgot to say I'm a big fan of indirect lighting. It takes away funky shadows and makes lighting more even.TomOverdrive is overrated
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