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  • Torque Wrench question

    I hand torque every wheel that comes off the car here at my shop. I have a Mac twist type wrench that I have had for several years, that still test accurate according to the tool truck guys "torque standard". but

    It is an older wrench, and has well over 5000 clicks on it.
    I am shopping for a new wrench and am wondering what are your thoughts on the split beam style wrench instead of the twist style?

    I have a snap on split beam wrench here, but I dont like how it feels when you get to the "click".

    what do you guys use?
    Charles

  • #2
    In the shop here the torque wrenches are calibrated either annually or every two years. That's not a cheap process, but it's the only way to insure they are still within spec.

    I think as long as yours works and stays calibrated - you're good to go.

    I don't trust "torque sticks" but lots of folks use them.
    There's always something new to learn.

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    • #3
      Dont like beam wrenches, nor do I care for wrenches witha dial indicator.

      We cal ours every year and they are certified witha +or- range. Depending on the application we may or may not be able to use the wrench if its + or - potentialy puts us out of the torque range.


      I think that as long as the wrench is cared for it should be good to go. Some of the wrenches in my boxees are 17 or 18 years old or older. One is much older that that and it is certified every year with no issues.
      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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      • #4
        Im going to send in the mac for calibration as soon as i have a new wrench. the age of the wrench doesnt bother me, its the number of "clicks" that it has done.

        i just need to have a 2nd tool here to send the first one in!

        Joe, are your tools certified by a military place or do you send them with a tool guy or ship them some place? I was just going to send mine with the snap-on guy.

        this is the snap on wrench


        the main benefit is, unlike a twist style wrench, I can leave this one set and it doesnt hurt the tool (not that I ever forget to turn the Mac down... every other day)
        Last edited by 1badmonkey; February 1, 2013, 11:09 AM.
        Charles

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 1badmonkey View Post
          Im going to send in the mac for calibration as soon as i have a new wrench.


          this is the snap on wrench


          the main benefit is, unlike a twist style wrench, I can leave this one set and it doesnt hurt the tool (not that I ever forget to turn the Mac down... every other day)
          I have a few of these in the boxes out on the floor...they hold up well. We are still required to set them at the lowest setting when stored but otherwise they have been a good tool....
          If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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          • #6
            Let's see, 5000 clicks on a torque wrench is like what happens to your valve springs when driving a car a few miles.

            I sure don't get the thing about setting a torque wrench to zero after you use it. I guess it's the mechanical engineer in me.
            My fabulous web page

            "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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            • #7
              I always set my single beam torque wrenches to zero when not using them

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post
                I always set my single beam torque wrenches to zero when not using them
                I try but the darn things are always off by a ft lb or two!
                My fabulous web page

                "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                • #9
                  Here at the nuclear station we are required to rest each torque wrench after each use before turning it in to the cal lab. We have torque wrenches that are 15-20 years old and we still use them and they have 1000's apond 1000's of clicks on each.
                  Retirement is better than I thought!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by squirrel View Post
                    Let's see, 5000 clicks on a torque wrench is like what happens to your valve springs when driving a car a few miles.

                    I sure don't get the thing about setting a torque wrench to zero after you use it. I guess it's the mechanical engineer in me.
                    My problem is, I forget to do it.

                    as far as the "5000" clicks, that seems to be the interval that everyone uses. damn reading, thats what caused this. reading stuff. gotta quit doing that.
                    Charles

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Andy4639 View Post
                      Here at the nuclear station we are required to rest each torque wrench after each use before turning it in to the cal lab. We have torque wrenches that are 15-20 years old and we still use them and they have 1000's apond 1000's of clicks on each.
                      I bought my Mac in 1998, so it would be nearly 15 yrs old. and I do turn it down, there are just times I have forgotten and left it set at 80 or 100 ft lbs over a weekend, or a couple of days.
                      Charles

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                      • #12
                        I am impressed you care so much. I would think if the tool guy says its fine most people would call it good. I know lug torque is important, but its also not the bottom end of high rpm motor!

                        Some times I just use german torque... Guen-tite
                        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                        PB 60' 1.49
                        ​​​​​​

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 1badmonkey View Post
                          I hand torque every wheel that comes off the car here at my shop. I have a Mac twist type wrench that I have had for several years, that still test accurate according to the tool truck guys "torque standard". but

                          It is an older wrench, and has well over 5000 clicks on it.
                          I am shopping for a new wrench and am wondering what are your thoughts on the split beam style wrench instead of the twist style?

                          I have a snap on split beam wrench here, but I dont like how it feels when you get to the "click".

                          what do you guys use?
                          CP 1/2 impact - 2 longs and a short. never had a wheel fall off, unless you count the 280zx with the fine a* lady owner who I sorta got distracted by and forgot to tighten them at all. I was 15... I still blaim it on that.

                          If your stuff still specs right (and Mac I believe will check and fix that for you if there's a problem) I'd use it until it died.
                          Last edited by Beagle; February 1, 2013, 01:26 PM. Reason: speeling
                          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Relaxing a torque wrench






                            If you’re using a mechanical click-type wrench, this one turns out to be absolutely true. A click-type torque wrench presses a ball into a detent that’s held in place by a spring. The wrench is normally adjusted by twisting the handle on the wrench. Twisting it in compresses the spring and requires more torque to pop the ball out of the detent. This is how it measures torque.

                            But if the spring is stored with the wrench “loaded” or set for a high torque rating, the pressure on the spring can cause it to weaken over time. To protect the wrench it should always be returned to the lowest setting before storing it back into your toolbox. For big wrenches (measuring in ft-lbs increments) the lowest setting is usually 20 ft-lbs. If, for some reason, you have a click-type torque wrench that goes all the way down to zero, leave the wrench set to 10 or 20 pounds. You always want to keep a minimum amount of pressure on the spring so that the ball can’t fall all the way out of the detent.

                            For other styles of torque wrenches, this isn’t an issue. The newest digital torque wrenches use an electronic strain gauge to measure torque, so when the wrench is not in use the only thing you may need to do is remove the batteries so that there is no chance of corrosion ruining your expensive digital wrench.



                            A torque wrench can’t measure... read full caption
                            A torque wrench can’t measure friction. For most fasteners the final torque will depend on the type of lubricant used. Motor oil, for example, has a different friction coefficient than moly lube or ARP’s new Ultra Torque lubricant. Make sure your torque number takes into account the lubricant being used. You can get this type of information from fastener manufacturers like ARP.

                            Read more: http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...#ixzz2JgLLGkWn
                            Last edited by Andy4639; February 1, 2013, 01:41 PM.
                            Retirement is better than I thought!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Russell View Post
                              I am impressed you care so much. I would think if the tool guy says its fine most people would call it good. I know lug torque is important, but its also not the bottom end of high rpm motor!

                              Some times I just use german torque... Guen-tite
                              my own stuff, maybe...

                              a customers car?? torqued to spec, every time, with out fail.

                              it is funny, how many people are amazed(and mention it) that I hand tighten and use a torque wrench.

                              My one tool dealer said i could send it in, but it would be about as expensive as buying a new wrench, so just buy a new one.
                              -----
                              My Snap-On guy said when he has a wrench calibrated, the most he has ever had to charge was 60 dollars. he didnt just try to sell me a new wrench.

                              what started the whole process-

                              I was tightening down a chevy truck wheel, the Mac made a "pop" sound and slipped. so, got a kit for it, as it had a chipped tooth in the ratchet.
                              ever since, about once a week or so, it makes a horrible clunk/creak sound, that isnt in the ratchet head. it scares me, and it is just flat cheaper to buy another tool than worry about a customers car.


                              my biggest problem is, I dont like how the split beam wrench feels when it clicks. its hard to describe, might be something I get used too?? I hope!
                              Last edited by 1badmonkey; February 1, 2013, 02:28 PM.
                              Charles

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