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  • Got Some New Toys......

    Time to learn some Porting techniques......

    I picked this kit up and figured I'd match port the heads and intake on the nitrous motor myself, and maybe do a little bowl work while I'm at it, mainly just blending..... So any advise you guys can give would be greatly appreciated..... Also what's the best way to line up the gasket to scribe your marks so that everything lines up when it's put together....

    Here's a pic of what I got....


  • #2
    I've just done gasket matching and cleaning up casting flash, etc. Just put Dychem on the port area and align the gaskets using the bolts as alignment pins. Scribe carefully and machine to the line on both the intake and the head. Dumb reminder but I managed to screw this up on my 215 Buick - make sure that the gasket you match to will be readily available so you have a source for extra gaskets if you decide to change intakes, develop a leak, or whatever. Not all gasket brands are punched the same.

    Dan

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    • #3
      My advice is to practice on a spare head or intake, in my experience knowing how the tool cuts and moves before doing the real work is important to keep from inadvertantly removing material you didn't want to remove.

      When I did my iron Buick heads I simply took a gasket and used a sharpie and then just ground the black away and blended into the port from there.

      That all being said, it's more important to make sure the port tapers consistently from the intake to the head rather than taper down the intake port, wallow/bulge out at the gasket surface, then narrow down again in the head.
      Escaped on a technicality.

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      • #4
        If you're doing aluminum use aluminum formula Tap Magic on the burr. Works great and keeps the aluminum from sticking to the flutes. Also, there are burrs for aluminum that are designed not to plug up.

        Cast iron is self lubricating and is easy to cut. If you've drilled much in cast you probably know that already.

        Dan

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        • #5
          Yeah aluminum plugs the bits up in a hurry. Simply keeping the bit lubricated helps a ton for keeping aluminum from loading up in the teeth. I simply used WD-40 on a regular basis. Same issue with the sand rolls.
          Escaped on a technicality.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
            If you're doing aluminum use aluminum formula Tap Magic on the burr. Works great and keeps the aluminum from sticking to the flutes. Also, there are burrs for aluminum that are designed not to plug up.

            Cast iron is self lubricating and is easy to cut. If you've drilled much in cast you probably know that already.

            Dan
            i've heard that cheap ATF works just as well for keeping aluminum from sticking to tooling..
            Patrick & Tammy
            - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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            • #7
              I haven't tried ATF but I know for a fact that Tap Magic works. And if you put it on your shoes you can dance like Mr. Bojangles........

              Dan

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              • #8
                I've always used Alumicut or kerosene.

                However, the best solution I've found is to slow the speed of the cutter down so that you're not melting the material. Machining prototype stuff out of plastic and aluminum over the years taught me that melting the material clogs shit up faster than anything.
                "First I believe if you keep the RPM's high enough, ANYTHING is possible." PeeWee

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                  I haven't tried ATF but I know for a fact that Tap Magic works. And if you put it on your shoes you can dance like Mr. Bojangles........

                  Dan
                  put tap majic on your buddy's seat in the break area at work and he'll dance like mr bojangles too...
                  Patrick & Tammy
                  - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Another question, as for the grinder, air or electric??

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