Summit racing paint

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • projectcarforum
    replied
    If you're just going to flip it, you could always run it down to maaco for one of their $300 dollar specials...

    Might end up being just as cheap by time you buy all the supplies...

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    Spray for shine. Best painting advise I ever got. With enamel JUST when it gets shiny is about perfect - but drier for the first coat.

    The above doesn't apply for base/clear. The base likes to be just a little dry. I keep getting it too wet out of habit.

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • mustangv1331
    replied
    10 4 on that i have never messed with anything cheaper than omni however i believe its all in the reducer and hardner you use just get her nice n wet n itll look good! Good luck on ur paint job hope it turns out great!!

    Leave a comment:


  • ford141
    replied
    I've used the Omni paint, we painted my dad's truck with Omni single stage Urethane. Still way more expensive than the Summit paint line. He had $250 in a gallon of red, Summit is $71 per gallon.

    John, I was trying to avoid the John Deere look, but some people dig it, so it might be a viable route.
    Last edited by ford141; April 11, 2013, 05:53 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • mustangv1331
    replied
    omni paint

    for a cheap good paint job i have always used omni "ppg but cheap version" either way you want to go base clear, enanmel it lays down nice. Avg price enamal 180-450 dependig on color and base clear or enamal and/or white to red in color. Just make sure u get a slow hardner so ya can lay the the whole paint job down wet n get that shine

    Leave a comment:


  • milner351
    replied
    You may be able to find a solid green shade that's close enough to the oem metallic - but you might end up with something that looks like a john deere tractor.

    Leave a comment:


  • ford141
    replied
    Hmmmm, white is a possibility. I hadn't thought of white because I hate white vehicles. But if I'm selling it anyways, I dont have to look at it. White might be the way to go. Not sure I want to tackle a two-tone job, I'm not confident enough in my painting ability to pull that one off...

    Leave a comment:


  • SpiderGearsMan
    replied
    Dupont works for me , but I haven't painted a car in 15 years

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    I had a Forest Service Green '80 Chevy PU. That's the one that got a BBB. Anyhow - my plan was to paint it mostly white with a green hood stripe and green rockers so the green interior would "fit". I had to replace the hood and painted it so it already had the scheme - looked a LOT better.

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Originally posted by ford141 View Post
    Maybe I would be better off just choosing a solid color. The original color is metallic green and the interior is green. I don't want to paint the inside of the cab since it is currently all together and complete. Low cost, quick turnaround is most important with this truck, not necessarily color. It is hard to find solid green colors that don't look like a John Deere. Then again, in my redneck area, the John Deere look might help it sell better........ hmmmm
    One derby guy has the John Deere theme.. Paints his car with the Deere paint.. Sprays it about 2 am.. Load up during dewy daybreak.. Still be tacky. Then by time we get where we are going.. Done! In those conditions it turns out pretty good.. Think how nice it will look in good conditions..

    Leave a comment:


  • Orange65
    replied
    White in any brand is cheap (relatively speaking). I have sprayed Nason acrylic enamel successfully. Laid down nicely IMO. You can add hardener to make the paint last if you care.

    White also hides body issues- makes the vehicle look better than it is.

    Leave a comment:


  • SpiderGearsMan
    replied
    john deere mint green

    Leave a comment:


  • milner351
    replied
    How about white with green down the middle - then you don't have as much metallic to worry about - and still matches the interior?

    Leave a comment:


  • ford141
    replied
    Maybe I would be better off just choosing a solid color. The original color is metallic green and the interior is green. I don't want to paint the inside of the cab since it is currently all together and complete. Low cost, quick turnaround is most important with this truck, not necessarily color. It is hard to find solid green colors that don't look like a John Deere. Then again, in my redneck area, the John Deere look might help it sell better........ hmmmm

    Leave a comment:


  • rightpedal
    replied
    I have used the primer on the 66. Worked ok for me but "it was just primer". I use the silver a lot on bumpers and wheels. I would agree with SBG it likes to run. The method I found is two light coats. Let them tack up. Then a medium on the heavy side coat. Oh and hold your tongue just right. But that is on small parts not sure I would tackle a whole car. Try the Wanda stuff. A friend is the Interlux rep and put me on to it (it is a sister brand and he gets it at a discount). We shot a couple of truck bed/topper combos. It laid out clean. What ever you chose the golden rule is.....always use the same mfg for all products in the system.

    Good luck.



    just so you get an idea of the conditions i was working in.... and the top coat is a 50/50 mix of rustolium white gloss and white flat.

    Leave a comment:

Working...