Concrete issue. Grind, chisel, or cut?

[STINEY]

Or any other options?

This concrete was poured with a "bump" intentionally, in order to give support to the sliding doors against the winds.

I have 3 of these.

Overhead doors will be going in soon......these bumps need to be flat.

What would you guys recommend?









This is the outside view of 2 of the door openings.

[Dan Barlow]

Depends on if you feel like the bull of the woods or not. If in your forties or less get your sledge hammer. Personally I would jack hammer them out.

[BBR]

Find this girl and have her saw them out.

[squirrel]

Probably cut and then jackhammer. Grinding a quarter inch off it would take all day....and a jackhammer is just a big chisel.

[DanStokes]

If you have a hammer drill (I do) you can fill that sucker full o' holes then chisel or jackhammer them. Lots easier if it isn't a solid lump. If you watch the depth of the holes you can also control the depth of the chunk removed.

Dan

[68scott385]

Is the concrete hump the same thickness as the rest of the floor or is it in addition to the floor thickness? Is it reinforced? In my experience, mark the perimeter, make scoring cuts with the saw & diamond blade then come in with a medium sized jack hammer to remove the bulk, once you get close to flat/level use the meat clever looking bit to take less depth but help flatten it out.

[Beagle]

Find this girl and have her saw them out.

Bring her sister...

[milner351]

^^^ what Scott said... and don't forget to wear safety glasses and a dust mask -concrete dust is nasty.

Find out what you can rent locally and go from there, the "chain saw concrete saw" deals are pretty good and making cuts quickly but I'm not sure how well they'd cut horizontally.... between a saw like that and even an electric jack hammer with a wide chisel bit - you'll have it out of there in a couple hours.

[STINEY]

The bump is in addition to the 5"-6" floor thickness. Fiberglass strands in the pour but no wire or rebar.

I have an electric jackhammer, and can borrow a saw (with abrasive blade, not diamond), what's the meat cleaver bit? I have a shovel bit, pointed bit, and chisel bit.

[68scott385]

The bump is in addition to the 5"-6" floor thickness. Fiberglass strands in the pour but no wire or rebar.

I have an electric jackhammer, and can borrow a saw (with abrasive blade, not diamond), what's the meat cleaver bit? I have a shovel bit, pointed bit, and chisel bit.

I forget the real name but it looks like a meat tenderizer.

Those saws cut fine horizontally...if you have the height to get the saw in to the work space. In your case I would make vertical cuts and try to control the depth of cut like Dan said, so you can control the size of pieces removed and the depth of removal. Monitoring depth will be challanging with an abrasive blade but it can be done and you'll probably need three or four blades for each hump, depending on the strength of the concrete.

Definitely wear a filter mask while cutting. Wear saftey glass while doing any concrete removal work.

[Deaf Bob]

I've used a gas powered chop saw.. Proper blade is a must.. It had one in it when I got it.. Steel cutting blades are good for screwing up concrete.. Some have a hole to squirt water on the cut, keeping dust down and the diamond blade cool.. Some have trolleys... But with the hump... That looks to be difficult to use
There are blades for the angle grinders.. They cut pretty good.. The big ones.. Screw the little one pictured above!

[BBR]

Slice like bread, chisel the rest out.

[DanStokes]

Get Mongo.

"Mongo do it. Hit cement HARD! Cement go!!!!!"

It's good to have big, strong, dumb friends. I used to but not yet in NC.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

You're a farm supplier - why not diesel and ammonium nitrate... err... fertilizer?

that'd be cheap


take video of result

post on Youtube for glory and posterity

[STINEY]

Shhh.....I haven't seen the unmarked black helicopters for a while, let's keep it that way, eh?