Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Need help mechanics.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Need help mechanics.

    Trying to remove driverside cv shaft from my wife's trailblazer so I can pull the motor. On the pass side I used a large pry bar and hit it with a hammer once and it came off. Tried driver side and it won't budge. Rented a slide hammer with no luck. Tried slide hammer and pry bar and it won't pop off.
    I'm a big boy and there is a lot of force in my swing so I don't know what else to do.
    Any tips?
    I know this should be in tech but néed to get this done
    Jeff
    Follow My Build

  • #2
    Stuff I just read just said you gotta hit it hard.
    Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
    1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
    1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
    1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
    1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
    1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

    Comment


    • #3
      Salt welded solid?

      Comment


      • #4
        I have been reading everything and it says to use a big pry bar and tap with a hammer. I have done probably 6 sets of these on other cars with no problem other than punch yourself in the head with a pry bar. I replaced the passenger side about 20000 miles ago. I wouldn't even worry about them if the shaft didn't run through the oil pan.
        That's not my only problem though. For some reason I thought I could use a gear wrench to remove the torque converter bolt but found out that once you bottom the bolt out and can't get the wrench off thats not good. I even knew better. Time for a saws all.
        Jeff
        Follow My Build

        Comment


        • #5
          Hope the bolt isn't hardened...

          Comment


          • #6
            X2... try turning the cv 180 degrees, and repeat... have had luck with that trick in the past...
            Patrick & Tammy
            - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

            Comment


            • #7
              unbolt the upper control armI take the whole knuckle off and remove the axle to do motors
              4.2 ?
              Last edited by SpiderGearsMan; July 24, 2013, 06:26 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                2005 4.2. Pass side is done. Just cannot get the driverside to budge. I used a 5 lb slide hammer and a pry bar with no luck. Tomorrow going to try and us two pry bars and hope for the best. Ever have one not come off?
                Jeff
                Follow My Build

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm not familiar with this exact set-up but would the gas wrench help? Sometimes even a little heat goes a long way.

                  Or could you pull the pan bolts and leave the pan in the chassis? Pull the pan off the new engine and RTV the gasket rail once the engine's in the hole. Another thought.......

                  Dan
                  Last edited by DanStokes; July 25, 2013, 07:45 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Two things:

                    Dan's Idea is great. I've seen guys do this at the wrecking yard when the pan was toast anyway.

                    Make sure you sauce the piss out of that thing. Lucas Tool Box Buddy is some pretty bad ass stuff. Of course PB Blaster and JB80 work as well.

                    If you can heat the outer that might work too. Not sure on what else the heat would damage though.
                    "A cross thread is better than a lock washer." Earl Lanning...My Grandpa

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      swing the hammer like you mean it.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm afraid I'm going to crack the the diff casing. I'm beyond pissed at this thing. Hopefully some heat will do the trick.
                        Jeff
                        Follow My Build

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          try knocking it back in with a few taps first, then two pry bars if possible so you're pulling it straight into the taper, if the clip is jammed part way out - it won't come out the rest of the way.
                          There's always something new to learn.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 1trickpony View Post
                            I'm afraid I'm going to crack the the diff casing. I'm beyond pissed at this thing. Hopefully some heat will do the trick.
                            put axle nut back on.. take pickle fork and put behind nut, hit pickle fork up at nut like you have some balls, no where near the diff.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I borrowed a pickle fork that would fit behind the inner and crankcase. No luck. It's on there. Unfortunately the shaft comes out pass side so you must remove driverside. My only option now is to remove oil pan and hope I can get the motor out. I still don't have a clue on how to get it off there. And yes I am hitting it like I have a pair. I'm so frustrated at this think I am surprised I haven't broke it yet.
                              Jeff
                              Follow My Build

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X