Anyone done this and know if I need to raise the motor? How far? Hands on answers preferred (I too own repair manuals). Thank you
Oil pump R&R 70 Roadrunner 383 w/headers
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BBMopar = External oil pump.Last edited by BBR; July 26, 2013, 07:07 AM.Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nailComment
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Remove the oil filter and then loosen the bolts that hold the pump to the side of the block. You should be able to slide the pump out without raising the motor, but if you cant, youll need to wangle the bolts out first, then remove the cover, then the rest should have enough room to be removed. Not a big failure rate assembly, if the motor is un rebuilt and has no oil pressure it usually stems from nylon "teeth" cogging the oil pickup as the timing gears disintegrate... a real common problem.
BKBwww.FBthrottlebodies.com
Bruce K BridgesComment
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This one's coming out to fix some leaks (OP's fine). Thank youOriginally posted by BKBridges View PostRemove the oil filter and then loosen the bolts that hold the pump to the side of the block. You should be able to slide the pump out without raising the motor, but if you cant, youll need to wangle the bolts out first, then remove the cover, then the rest should have enough room to be removed. Not a big failure rate assembly, if the motor is un rebuilt and has no oil pressure it usually stems from nylon "teeth" cogging the oil pickup as the timing gears disintegrate... a real common problem.
BKBSTUGOTSComment
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Groucho, to save yourself some headaches in the long run, be sure to rotate the engine up to TDC, remove the distributor and the oil pump intermediate shaft. You are going to have to prime the pump after putting it back in, and this will facilitate easier priming with a 1/2" drill and a long piece of 5/16" hex rod. If you don't have a piece of hex rod, PM me your addresss and I will mail you one.
When you take the oil pump intermediate shaft out, make note of how the distributor drive slot is oriented in relation to the centerline of the camshaft. It is important that when you drop the intermediate shaft back into the engine that the slot is facing the same direction as when you removed it. After that, drop the dizzy back in and set the timing. All done.
RonIt's really no different than trying to glue them back on after she has her way.Comment
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i replaced a oil pump on a 440RB in a 77 dodge truck in about a 1/2 hr it was that easy"if it's too loud you're too old !!! "sigpicComment
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If you pack the pump with light grease or break-in lube before you put it back on the motor you don't need to prime it and additionally you wont need to pull the distributor and drive gear/shaft. Just trying to beat the "book"
BKBwww.FBthrottlebodies.com
Bruce K BridgesComment
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Originally posted by BKBridges View PostIf you pack the pump with light grease or break-in lube before you put it back on the motor you don't need to prime it and additionally you wont need to pull the distributor and drive gear/shaft. Just trying to beat the "book"
BKB
that's exactly what i did to the melling HV pump i installed ,pulled the pump cover off and packed it tight with vaseline and oil press came up very quickly"if it's too loud you're too old !!! "sigpicComment
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That's how I used io do Buicks also. Did alot of them in the '80s.Originally posted by BKBridges View PostIf you pack the pump with light grease or break-in lube before you put it back on the motor you don't need to prime it and additionally you wont need to pull the distributor and drive gear/shaft. Just trying to beat the "book"
BKBComment
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