Looking for a Cherokee Sport - What to look for?

[PatricksDad]

I'm hunting a 1997-2001 Cherokee Sport for me and my son to share.

Can anyone share what to look for in ones with 100-150k miles? I've had 4.0 liter Wranglers before so I know the basic powertrain.

What will be the major maintenance issues after that?

Thanks in advance.

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

not much.. my 2 step sisters have them and other than normal crap nothing major..
ones 200k the other 280k

[Barry Donovan]

when they go bad, they really go bad. My grandma went through a lot of those, brand new driven to dead. I recall a sport with a 2 doors and four cyls, not sure if that is a mislabel.. but that was way before 1997 anyway.

there is a routine local with those, just keep a real good engine spared...and normal 4x4 differential piles.

[DanStokes]

I'd look for a D2500 Diesel. Oops - off topic.

Helped a buddy put an engine in a Cherokee Sport. It was a bit of a hassle but not undoable. I suppose someone that's done a few could pop 'em right in there. BTW - the six had a billion miles and no maintenance so I wouldn't consider that typical. Everything else on his worked fine - maybe a bit of A/C repair IIRC but nothing major.

Dan

[djstorino]

I've had an '88, '98 and have a '99, check the floors, rockers and "frame rails" for rust. The fewer power options it has the better, the electric windows sometimes work and sometimes don't, same with power locks, and they will fail in time. If you're going to be turning it into a mild trail rig find one with the Chryco 8.25 rear diff, it has a flat spot on the bottom of the center section. If its gonna stay fairly stock the rear end isn't as much of an issue. Along the same lines of differentials, for wheeling duty I believe '99 is the last year for the high pinion Dana 30 front axle, but if its staying fairly stock the low pinion on the '00 and '01 is just fine. The aftermarket is huge, parts are cheap, best advice is the same as everything, find the best maintained one possible and enjoy it.

[antmnte]

I've had an '88, '98 and have a '99, check the floors, rockers and "frame rails" for rust. The fewer power options it has the better, the electric windows sometimes work and sometimes don't, same with power locks, and they will fail in time. If you're going to be turning it into a mild trail rig find one with the Chryco 8.25 rear diff, it has a flat spot on the bottom of the center section. If its gonna stay fairly stock the rear end isn't as much of an issue. Along the same lines of differentials, for wheeling duty I believe '99 is the last year for the high pinion Dana 30 front axle, but if its staying fairly stock the low pinion on the '00 and '01 is just fine. The aftermarket is huge, parts are cheap, best advice is the same as everything, find the best maintained one possible and enjoy it.

Ditto,my dad had a 87 with a 4 liter and now has an 01 with a 4 liter,the 87 was smoother and faster but the power windows broke the power seats broke and the front end got real bad,the 01 got rusty and he had it fixed but its common and it was cared for and kept clean.

[Woodward_Dreams]

Like djstorino said, check the floors. The are tons on the road with giant holes in the pans, so crawl under there. I think the 2000 model year had problems with cylinder heads cracking.

The gauge clusters are super easy to switch out (to show a lower mileage) so make sure they owner isn't lying about the odo reading.

Otherwise parts are cheap and they're a blast to drive.


Oh and the 2.5L is gutless.... Get the 4.0 for sure.

[Huskinhano]

Carry a spare crank position sensor, it's on the driver's side by the flywheel on the block. We use to have a Cherokee with the 4.0 and that went bad on me a couple of times. it just fails with out warning. I never liked the brakes either. The pedal always felt mushy and would never lock up the wheels. Went through shoes and pads regularly. Outside of that pretty good. lots of fond memories with it.

[Loren]

That six is a great engine but Cherokees have a chronic overheating problem due to no room for a proper radiator and poor airflow through the one it has. Mostly it's not a problem but if you even suspect it's been overheated, move on.

[PatricksDad]

Thanks, everyone, for the advice. In my neck of the woods they run from $4k-7k depending on mileage, options, and condition.

It'll be my daily driver, for at least the first year, as my son completes the hours he needs for his full license. I work from home, so it'll get maybe 100 miles a week running around town with the occasional blast to the airport. Any recommendations on tires for primarily on-road work that won't get me stuck in the first 2" of snow?

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

get the rig first then worry about tires. the ones on it might be fine..
horse then cart..