paint guys step on inside

[NewEnglandRaceFan]

Here we have a predicament,
After I get my truck in the garage, I'll have to repaint the rear frame as the spray bomb paint is pealing in places... mostly from 2+ years of sunlight and using the rails as a bench.. but anyways.
I need to redo them and before I drop the new engine in I plan on doing the front frame and engine compartment.. and I'll get to the undercab afterwards
the problem is my garage is not insulated.. and winter weather.
I have 2 heaters both propane. 1) tube with fan blower and the other a mr heater 2 burner that mounts to the tank.. now painting and open flame are not a good idea..
and the monster heater that i'll install at a later date is a warehouse type with gas and fan. (ones they hang in warehouses 3'x4'x3' but that's later..
I can get the garage up to 68-70 and the frame to that.. but then have to kill the heaters to paint.. how long does the metal and paint need to stay above 60* to not fail..
I have an electric oil filled heater (looks like a steam radiator) that I could put a fan behind to help keep the temp up.. plan on closing off the area to be painted so not to have to heat the whole garage.. just not sure if the oil filled heater will keep it warm enough.. well have to test run that set up to see..
what have you used.. to keep the temp warm enough.. long enough..
thinking epoxy prime, and 2 coats of paint.

thanks,

waiting on spring isn't an option if I'm gonna make the powertour

[rightpedal]

I paint all the time in lo temp. Epoxy primer (dp90 and its color variants) is pretty forgiving stuff. The 2k frame paint from eastwood is also pretty forgiving as far as temp, cleanliness not so much. You are going to want to rough up the old paint pretty good and remove any that is actually pealing. Then seal it, the two part paints will pull up spray can paint in a heart beat. I ended up with a mess when i tried it. The epoxy and two top coats is a good plan.

Now to your question.... Given my experiences your big issue will be flash time between coats. More specifically between the two top coats. What does the mfg say about time between coats. Ideally you are laying down one coat after another, but in your case the garage might need to be reheated.

My procedure is to wait till a 35/40 deg day heat the garage and the car. Pull out the car. Spray it. Put the car back in the garage and turn the heaters back on. Wait 1 hour repeat. Wait 1 hour repeat. Yes I turn the heaters on with the pain drying. No I haven't blown the garage up. Yes I realize this isn't osha approved.

Steve

[Deaf Bob]

I often spraybomb stuff by the burn barrel.. I use a hot water tank rather than a 55 gallon drum.. Less wood hotter fire.. Never noticed a flash from the fumes.. To be honest.. It's outside.. I did notice parts that didn't get rotated did not set up very well..
Paint nowadays is mostly the propellant from the cans that is flameable..
Lots of truck shops used to heat with wood and I never seen nor heard of parts painting blowing up the shops.. Mechanics would paint right on the woodpiles next to the heaters.. Some of hose heaters were the size of 2-4 refrigerators..thus BIG fires..
They would throw cans of used oil on the fires to get them going or start them..

[DanStokes]

I've done paint indoors (not pulling the car outside) in Michigan winters. I get everything up to temp then cut the heater and spray. I'll crack the overhead door after 10 minutes or so to help it evacuate. After the recoat time passes I close the door, reheat the shop, (so I sort of stretch the recoat time) and do the next coat. Not ideal but I've had pretty good luck with it.

Or we could all kick in for a BS spray booth. SE NC would be a perfect location!

Dan

[Barry Donovan]

between your plan for heat, and a good brand.. should do good. I pushed boundaries just last month, my dads boat trailer. He got the fancy stuff, multi step. went to 32 at night.

dead as could be, old steel getting cold for the season..it does not care about temperature. I was thinking if you have some welding chores, that should light up that negative, and make active...then paint while warm like you plan.