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What problems to look for in '67-72 Chevy/GMC pickups.

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  • What problems to look for in '67-72 Chevy/GMC pickups.

    I have found a few locally, including this '67 GMC long bed. I know to look for rust, but would like to know what else to look for. The two piece driveshafts? etc.

    This one has the usual rust in the rocker/door sills, but is solid and straight otherwise. Has the seat recovered. It's powered by a late model non-vortec 350 that runs great considering it's a blob of grease. Has Mallory ignition, Edelbrock 600 carb and intake. SM465 four speed, or whatever. Power drum brakes and armstrong steering. I have yet to test drive it, but got it running today.

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  • #2
    I had a '67 C20 and the one thing that I had a problem with that I would have never thought about was the trailing arms. They are two pieces of "C" channel riveted back-to-back. Over the years they collect water & debris. Mine rusted and the two halves pushed apart. The rivets held but the rest of the arms spread apart. One actually bent about 12" from the front mount. This was before LMC started carrying replacements. I managed to find a set in a junkyard but eventually had a fabricator friend make a set out of 2x3 box steel and never had another problem. The tailgate trunions on mine rusted out too and eventually the tailgate wasn't attached well enough for me to comfortly leave it on. Other than that cab corners, rockers, and floors. If you get real loose with money U.S. Body Source has the complete body & bed in fiberglass.
    Last edited by 68scott385; July 28, 2014, 09:06 PM.
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...n-block-wanted

    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...-Blue-Turd(le)

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    • #3
      67 has no sidelights, and a small back window...last year for that. Makes the look a little better to my eye. Looks like it needs some headlight adjuster screws, too. The transmission might be an SM420 instead of the 465? they changed in either 67 or 68. Most half tons had 3.73 gears, kind of steep for highway cruising, but fine around town.

      Front suspension has steel bushings, instead of rubber, check for wear. The trailing arms are made of two channels so they can twist...replacing them with rectangular tubing puts a lot of strain on things.

      Neat truck.
      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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      • #4
        Look for rust under the battery too - it eats up the radiator support and front of the inner fender well. Go here for even more information -

        http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=3

        Early Classic Enterprises has good parts and I know I guy here in Omaha who has a ton of stuff stashed away but he's a good horse trader too.
        Phil / Omaha

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        • #5
          Rhe local salvage yard has a bunch of these trucks.
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          • #6
            Aside from rust issues (looks like you found a super nice clean original paint truck!) they're probably the best classic truck to own.

            They're by far the most popular classic truck of probably the past decade, which means they have a H U G E aftermarket support.

            They're EASILY modified. 67-69's weren't super well optioned trucks, but a lot of 71-72's came loaded with power disc brakes (no disc brakes before 71, but ALL 71/72 trucks came with them standard), A/C, automatics, power steering. They're also one of the best riding classic trucks right from the factory. Modern trucks still use the same basic front end set up, and while the trailing arms aren't used anymore for payload reasons, NASCAR copied the design and they're still using the trailing arms today under I believe all 3 of the main series vehicles.

            There are kits to put in an LS. A 700R is almost a bolt in swap behind a straight 6 or 350, and depending on what you have in the truck now, sometimes you don't even need to have the driveshaft shortened. ECE (early classic enterprise) has the best static lowering kits. You can also bag it. Big wheels fit easily. The best part about these trucks is how "common" all the drivetrain and suspension parts are (as in, affordable!)

            I've owned my 67 for 18 years. It has a 350/700R/3.73 and is a great cruising truck.

            The only real problem I have had with mine is people wanting to buy it.
            Last edited by Jesse James 80; July 29, 2014, 08:42 AM.
            1967 Chevrolet C10 SWB - 350/700R/3.73
            1965 Ford Mustang - 289/T5/3.25
            1968 Pontiac Firebird - Project Rusty Chicken

            2014 HRPT Short Haul; 2015, 2016, & 2018 HRPT Long Hauler

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the information. I have no plans for hot rodding the truck or lowering it. If I get it, I would want to add power steering and disc brakes. If I can find parts at the yard, I might go that route. Wondering if 73-80 era spindles will work on these. Those are a dime a dozen around here. Although, disc brake kits have dropped to the point, it's no longer cheaper to do the junkyard upgrade.
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              • #8
                The website posted above is THE BEST on the internet for these trucks: 67-72chevytrucks.com.

                Yes, the 71/72 are the best to use. The 73-79 are the next best bet. 80-87 have different rotor widths. Without converting the truck to 5 lug, you'll have to buy aftermarket 6 lug spindles to match the rear, or convert the rear to 5 lug with aftermarket axles, redrilling the stock axles, or find a good 71/72 rear end.

                A tip is to use the ENTIRE suspension, cross member and all. I bought the entire front suspension from a 71 GMC for my 67 years ago. The reason is that the different year spindles use different tie rod ends and ball joints. If you use the entire suspension you can buy everything for a '75 C10 (for example), instead of 67 inner tie rod ends and 75 outers, etc.

                http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...-87+disc+brake

                Here's the build I did on my truck:

                http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=build+thread
                Last edited by Jesse James 80; July 29, 2014, 10:04 AM.
                1967 Chevrolet C10 SWB - 350/700R/3.73
                1965 Ford Mustang - 289/T5/3.25
                1968 Pontiac Firebird - Project Rusty Chicken

                2014 HRPT Short Haul; 2015, 2016, & 2018 HRPT Long Hauler

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Scott Liggett View Post
                  Thanks for all the information. I have no plans for hot rodding the truck or lowering it. If I get it, I would want to add power steering and disc brakes. If I can find parts at the yard, I might go that route. Wondering if 73-80 era spindles will work on these. Those are a dime a dozen around here. Although, disc brake kits have dropped to the point, it's no longer cheaper to do the junkyard upgrade.
                  Actually 1967 thru '87 will interchange into your truck, so easy to swap to 5x5" pattern wheels. I'm not sure the rust thing is a concern in all areas, and if your truck has minor rust in the rockers, I doubt the trailing arms will be a issue. I'd expect major body rust before suspension rust. I have a '69 Suburban Custom C10, and I can't think of much beyond the usual body rust areas that's a "typical" or general concern. I've only had mine a few years, but it's one of the best Suburbans I've owned, and I've had 4 others from earlier years.
                  Mine is my daily driver and tow rig. Converted to later 5x5" suspension, with power disc brakes, and HD swaybars front and rear. I don't plan on ever making it a show rig. I replaced all the seats with 2001 Durango leather buckets and folding rear bench, but only because the stock stuff was trashed.

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                  • #10
                    My 69 has been a work horse for me. The only real problem for me has been cheap carrier bearings. I swapped disc brakes from a parts truck. If you go this route lower ball joints will be needed. All cheap and simple. I like the ride of coil sprung trailing arm truck over leaf springs.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      73-up trucks used a two piece driveshaft (that's probably a different length). with a much better design carrier bearing. although the mount for it is different.

                      70-up trucks have a wider rear end (longer axles), so the 70s 5 lug axles won't fit the 60s rearends.
                      My fabulous web page

                      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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                      • #12
                        The dealer wasn't even sure it's a '67. It has the original owner's manual, but it doesn't give the year. I think some old guy owned this thing. It is really straight. Just missing some trim on the passenger side.




                        It has NOS taillight lenses on it. The original lenses and one is melted in the glove box. They say it's a '67. So, you're saying how do you know the year by looking at the tail light lenses? Besides putting DOT approval on every tail light lens, they also say GUIDE 67. Back when a car's tail lights changed yearly, it was how mechanics figured out the year of the vehicle. Every car made in America has that two digit year number on them. Now, go out and look at your tail lights.


                        OK, this is weird. No truck arm suspension under the back. Freaking leaf springs. Also, a good quality trailer hitch wired for lights. Score!! The exhaust doesn't look too good. You guys argue over those leaf springs. The previous owner didn't cheap out on tires. Those are Generals on three corners and a Goodyear on the fourth. They are cracked and tired.


                        Under the hood looks like a crate small block with an Edelbrock carb and intake, Mallory Unilite and coil and practically brand new brass/copper 4 core radiator.

                        The good, it runs and drives just fine for what it is. The clutch is good, the trans shifts fantastic. It has the gauge dash and most of them work. There is an aftermarket temp gauge. Newly recovered seat. The paint on the inside of the cab is more teal than blue. I could buy this and drive it without much more a cleaning, tune up, and fresh wiper refills.

                        The bad, the tires are done in. The windshield got a single crack across the entire center of the windshield. There is a 3/8" bolt in the middle of the roof and what looks like it had something about two feet in diameter on the roof by the donut shaped mark on the roof.. Would anyone put their spare tire on the roof? Rust in the rockers. A bit in the floor up front. The bed floor looks pretty good.

                        They are asking $2000 for it. What do you guys think?
                        Last edited by Scott Liggett; July 29, 2014, 05:33 PM.
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                        • #13
                          One other note. I wasn't able to get it up to 60 mph because the bed full of house siding started literally flying around behind the cab. That was exciting for the lady in the minivan behind me.
                          Last edited by Scott Liggett; July 29, 2014, 05:34 PM.
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                          • #14
                            I look at these locally here around Knoxville and also Greensboro Nc all the time! price is fair and not all those trucks had truck arms! some had the leafs just like that one. Buy it and drive it for what it is I like it.

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                            • #15
                              Nice truck, good price. Buy it!
                              Ed, Mary, & 'Earl'
                              HRPT LongHaulers, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19.


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