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  • Russell
    replied
    Changed the rear shocks last week. The Motorcraft (original? ) were wasted. I put the KYB agx adjustable shocks I had on the 89 they only 14 ish years old hopefully it will help with the wheel hop / tire shake.
    I orderd a clutchtamer from weedburner, Hopefully it will keep the stock parts safe, and maybe make the car consistent, I think it would be fun to bracket race it.

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  • Huskinhano
    replied
    Last fall I swapped out the driveshaft in my 66. I found out the aluminum driveshaft out of a 94 Explorer 4 door 2WD was a perfect match. I don't know if it was my imagination or what but I swear it seemed smoother even at 35 mph

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Glad that you found a culprit for the shake!

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    Took the shaft to a shop in Goldsboro. They said the rear yoke needed replacement, and suggested 2 new joints. $166.11 later there is much less vibration.

    Fox mustang Driveshaft

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  • Russell
    replied
    Between lack of time and lack of drive I pulled the driveshaft. Motor and trans have normal vibration time to get driveshaft fixed.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Front tires on the ground. Jack stands under axle tubes. Rear tires and brake drums removed.

    Edit: don't think it matters but all the rear suspension has solid links.
    Last edited by Russell; January 14th, 2018, 06:35 PM.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    no vibrations.... you have something out of balance that won't go away when on the road.... with that said, where are the jackstands? is the suspension at full droop? you can get a vibration at full droop that is non-existent when the suspension is loaded (driveshaft slip yoke)

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  • Russell
    replied
    Didn't feel like something was going to come loose but something might be out off ballance. It gets worse with speed.

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  • BBR
    replied
    I've run them up waaay fast on stands before with just the normal "heavy things are spinning really fast" type vibrations. Not the "holy crap something is coming loose" type.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Got the cover on and the rear filled. Moved the jack stands from the body to the rear axle. With both rear tires and brake drums removed I ran the car in 5th gear 2k rpms 55 mph. There was a good bit more vibration than I expected, but then again I have never ran a car on stands, but it almost felt like there was something out of balance.

    Should it vibrate on stands or should I look for problems?

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    I'd put the stands where they hold the suspension up under the car, probably under the axle tubes. If the stands are on the "frame" (a relative term on a unibody car) the axle will hang and the U-joints will be at a bad angle.

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    Pulled the oil brakes off the right side and the cover. I picked up a trick flow rear cover off CL it's overkill for a 14 second car but the stock cover had seen better days and it think it will be nice to have fill / drain plugs in the cover I seem to spend alot of time back here.

    I am starting to think the c-clip eliminator is leaking through the bearing / seal not where I glued it to the housing.

    what are the rules for running a car on jack stands? I would like to run it in gear with the wheels and brake drums off, maybe I can see where it's leating from.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Not sure if you can tell much from the pattern. Looks like it deep but centered?

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied


    So this show flex? I don't know if I am worried about flex I figured it might not be stright.
    Kinda rare for cast centered rears to be bent.. Have 3 main housings we swap car to car going on 10-12 years now that have 3:73, 4:56 and 4:86 ratios. They do not seem bent despite being hit and hit with often.

    Maybe you have a bent axle or the c-clip eliminator is in crooked?

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  • Russell
    replied
    Scribe lines on the tubes while on the ground, jack it up and see if the lines misalign
    Scribe round the tube and tube and housing.. Make a line on the housing then another on the tube. As you jack it up, if it is off, they will not match anymore
    There is a jig you can buy to install in bearing areas on ends and the saddles.. But not worth the $$ unless you plan to narrow housings or change housing ends

    So this show flex? I don't know if I am worried about flex I figured it might not be stright.

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