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  • Russell
    replied

    Is it a diagnostic port for the computer?
    Not that I know of, the normal diagnostic port is under the hood.

    Leave a comment:


  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    I found one plug that does not have a mate, what does it do? any idea where the other end is?




    Is it a diagnostic port for the computer?

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    VROOM VROOM! (At least, soon.) That engine must feel weird, sittin' in a Mustang.

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    Added a lot of weight to the mustang tonight!

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  • Russell
    replied
    Yesterday was wiring day got the dash and engine bay mostly done,




    while i had the dash out i put a new heater core in it, can you tell which one was leaking. it has been bypassed for a long time.




    how i keep up with the dash screws.


    Today i got the rear brakes swapped over the adjuster hits the c-clip elims. I bent the bracket on the passenger side after having trouble with the driver's



    got the steering column reinstalled



    still struggling with the concentric circles, getting the bell set up was the one thing i want to get done today that did not.






    rear brakes and fuel tank


    I found one plug that does not have a mate, what does it do? any idea where the other end is?





    Last edited by Russell; July 15th, 2016, 09:29 PM.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Bare fire wall with clutch cable already installed.


    The inside all taken apart


    Installed insulation from donor





    Thsee holes for the cc module are not there on the 87 had to drill them


    Cruise control


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  • Russell
    replied
    I am more or less "over the hump" the last big thing to remove is the gas tank. Removed the heat ac box fro. The 89 and the eec / engine bay harness. I had the 87 it all the way down to the bare fire wall. Starting to build it back up, got the fire wall insulation on, the pedals brake booster master cylinder, and stared on the brake lines. Moved the cruise control over as well as the throttle cable. Installed the new heater core in the box.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Went to the parts store to get a few things asked for ball joint boots. Said they were special order and would be 9 days. Amazon prime, will be here Friday.

    The $658 bell housing did not come with trans to bell bolts and the stock ones are metric. The store did not have hard bolts in the correct size. Will standard zinc bolts be ok?

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    Finshed up removing the spindles. The fuel lines went in almost as easy as the brake lines. I got the dash with harness removed. The elephant is getting smaller but it still looks like an elephant.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Small step forward this morning I got the brake line from the engine bay to the rear axle in place. I hope I am able to snake the fuel lines between the sub frame connectors and the body with similar ease.

    Man I am sore. I hope I make it all week.
    Last edited by Russell; July 12th, 2016, 09:43 AM.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Having a commode and sink is supper nice. The original plan was to take the wall / tile shower out to get a few more feet of work space but I have decided to keep the shower.

    Good to see you, come back, the new vette looks good / like fun.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Barlow
    replied
    You know , if you had of taken out that bathroom , you wouldn't have had to be sweating today with that door open . Again , nice toy box . Good progress . It always takes me 4 times longer to do stufff than I think .

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  • Russell
    replied
    Monday: I started the day by setting the motor back into the car. With the front accessary drive on and no transmission the motor is front heavy so I had to cut a board to run between the k-member and the core support to balance the engine. I did this because I need to remove the fuel and brake lines and the fuel line runs behind the right strut. To remove the struts I used a floor jack to compress the spring, the mass of the motor is need to compress the spring. The motor itself was not enough I placed the battery back in the engine bay and half a back on ready mix in the floor board to get the spring to compress, the left side required additional weight to get the spring to compress. The fuel and the brake lines are held on to the car with sheet metal bolts and pop rivets. Disconnecting the parking break cables is required,
    Once the fuel lines were removed from the donor car I removed the engine and placed it into the project car to remove the springs and struts. After the springs and struts were remove I pulled the engine and again and set it back on the cradle.







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  • Russell
    replied
    From what I have read on the Internet you have to use a ford heater core ($83 from rock auto) and a flow restrictor I made one from an old brass plug.

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  • Russell
    replied
    I knew it was to good to be true. Looks like I will need the .007 dowel pins, going to check a 3 rd time.

    The engine cradle I made is nicer than hanging from a chain and better than in the car on jack stands but it's really close to the floor.

    Leave a comment:

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