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  • Russell
    replied
    Pulled the FED and timing cover the boat anchor.

    Photobucket is being stupid so no pictures.

    This also got me thinking I have spare timing chain that can advance or retarded the cam timing by 4*. So 100% stock 5.0HO straight up, or retarded 4*, or advanced 4*?

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  • Russell
    replied
    If you did not read the thead on the rest of my bearings troubles.
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...earing-failure

    The short version is the mains were worse than the rods. Dan hooked me up with the 93 HO out of the volvo.

    Progress has been slow due to very few trip out to the shop. I got the bearing caps back on the P motor and took the main harness off the HO and swapped the motor mounts.

    I put some bugger welds on a few more holes in the floor pan hopefully I am about done with welding. Going to wash it and put some paint on the bare metal next.

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  • Huskinhano
    replied
    I'd just put new bearings in. You already have it apart.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Yeah it has sat alot best i can remember I put those in about 6 years / 15k miles ago but it has had long spells of sitting, the last 2.5 years its been driven very little.

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  • STINEY
    replied
    Did this engine sit for a long time? Acids in the oil can cause that pitting in those situations.

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  • Russell
    replied
    I pulled half of the rod caps off be fore I ran out of time 3 of them look like i was expecting one looked different. Option one is put back together and not worry about option two is put a new standard bearing in there.





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  • DanStokes
    replied
    I think a small gap and fireproof caulk should be OK - but I'd send Keith an Email just to be sure. Vic would know, too. I'd say Jerry but I don't know how to get a hold of him. The ones in the Camaro and Mutt have plates welded to the bars at that point so mine are a bit different.

    Dan
    Last edited by DanStokes; February 24, 2016, 06:27 AM.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Maybe something like that. I more or less want to know if get the floor boards close to the bar then caulk it with fire proof caulk will it be good enough?

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  • Beagle
    replied
    ah, sorry. I'm an idiot.

    Are you saying seal it up around the bar? Like a cover plate? Cope with me for a minute, but I'm having a mental block with the thought of a butt joint of thin sheet metal being joined well to the bar.

    Maybe a cardboard template to get the angle/shape of the bar right and then a cut a sheetmetal cover with split fuel line around the edge to seal it? Click image for larger version

Name:	plate.jpg
Views:	18
Size:	12.0 KB
ID:	1088243

    and I'll shut up now.
    Last edited by Beagle; February 24, 2016, 04:46 AM.

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  • Russell
    replied
    The bar is already installed, the main hoop is on plates. I am just trying to seal the floor.

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  • Beagle
    replied
    Originally posted by Russell View Post
    Floor welded to the bar? Yes? No?
    yes, or bolted, with reinforcement plates. See the NHRA rules, it should cover you for a lot of ECTA too. I think it's 6"x6" plate on unit body cars. Not sure how thick without looking it up.

    BBR thread, page 14 (I'm not sure about that crossbar but as far as I know he's never been turned away because of



    You can see the bolt holes for if you wanted to bolt it in. I would use a plate on the other side of the car as well to sandwich it if I were bolting it in. Something like this (without the patented BBR mounting bolt.)

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  • Huskinhano
    replied
    I think I would. it's a unibody, the more you can tie things together the stronger it'll be. It certainly isn't going to hurt anything.
    Last edited by Huskinhano; February 23, 2016, 09:43 PM.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Floor welded to the bar? Yes? No?

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  • Huskinhano
    replied
    I think I would cut the area around the tubes out a bit larger and fab a piece to fill it in. It's like doing a sheetrock repair. sometimes you have to make the hole bigger for a cleaner repair rather then farting around with a bunch of little pieces.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Messed around in the shop tonight trying to figure out which holes I want to fill. Removed the carpet to check out the floor boards. I hammered on the shifter opening and compared to the 89 this car was an auto or the 4 cyl did not get the hump. Read some on the Internet seems like some add it and others don't. Sounds like more time and money.

    After a little work.


    Done for now.

    The angle bars go through the floor and weld to the sub frame connectors, my idea is to ad some metal to get the hole smaller then use fire proof caulk to seal the floor to the bar. How is this normally done?



    Last edited by Russell; February 23, 2016, 08:35 PM.

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