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  • Russell
    replied
    For low boost ring gap should be fine. I am alittle worried about letting the magic out. When it needs head gaskets I might look at the ring gap.

    I am going to try to get it painted before I start on the turbo install. Hopefully that will get me back on track with paint. Need to finish the air compressor shead, and buy the big boy compressor.

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  • Beagle
    replied
    501 at the tire is where "them" tells me the bad smoke fire and metallic part spewing genie lives, but that really is a ways off. Stock heads are going to be a pretty big road block.

    Ring gap?

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  • Russell
    replied
    Dan for a while some said the block crack at 501? Beagle I agree plan is to start with the smallest spring in the waste gate. Hopefully 4-7. Turn it up slowly, have a reality check around 15 before going any higher.

    Have you seen on Facebook? It gives me unrealistic hope.
    https://m.facebook.com/immortal8.2deck/?refid=0
    Project stock bottom end
    Build thread for our 91 stickshift sbe 8.2 deck fox coupe.
    Last edited by Russell; July 24, 2020, 03:28 AM.

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  • Beagle
    replied
    25 psi?!!

    "Project Let's Drive Over the Crank"

    I think it was Hellion's turbo testing that split the first one I saw trying to go 10's with stock everything many moons ago. I'd start with that 7 pound spring... lol.
    Last edited by Beagle; July 24, 2020, 12:33 AM.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Originally posted by Russell View Post

    Right now it worse it's on drag radials! I figured it would take 25 lbs of boost to make 600HP. How much the long block will handle, well I don't know. Hopefully I will know when it maxed out before it gives up. I can see an engine swap in my future more than likely a 5.8 maybe an LS.
    My 5.8 fits fine but I used the FMPP swap parts - seems like the way to go. Mine is a '96 truck short block and so has the roller cam arrangements which I think is worthwhile. For the 5.0, the usual number I've heard is that 600 HP is OK, 601 and the block will split thru the lifter bores. I have not personally tested that theory.

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    Originally posted by Beagle View Post
    might Diaper it if you're on slicks. 600 hp on a stock long block wouldn't be that easy without quite a bit of boost, the heads just won't support it easily. I think, however, it would not be that hard to get 600 foot pounds without taxing a GT45 real hard, and that's what I'd want to avoid.
    Right now it worse it's on drag radials! I figured it would take 25 lbs of boost to make 600HP. How much the long block will handle, well I don't know. Hopefully I will know when it maxed out before it gives up. I can see an engine swap in my future more than likely a 5.8 maybe an LS.
    Last edited by Russell; July 23, 2020, 02:12 PM.

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  • Beagle
    replied
    might Diaper it if you're on slicks. 600 hp on a stock long block wouldn't be that easy without quite a bit of boost, the heads just won't support it easily. I think, however, it would not be that hard to get 600 foot pounds without taxing a GT45 real hard, and that's what I'd want to avoid.

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  • Russell
    replied
    I am hoping to be able to figure out where I want it then build a bracket to connect the turbo flange to the head so it is floating. The connect the headers to the flange with pipe.

    I have high hopes for the block but I have heard their history. Sounds like low speed torque, over revving, to much timing, or bad fuel will let the oil come out where it shouldn't.

    I hope to run a reasonable tune. Some say E85 is good for turbo cars. It's pretty easy to get here. Some say a good balancer is a good upgrade should add that to the list. There are few people on Facebook that claim crazy power (800-900+) out of the stock block. I assume they are the exception not the rule. Might should build a belly pan for it.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    While there isn't much $$ involved, be sure to support that turbo! Especially when using headers that are not designed for turbo use they will want to crack and will do so quickly if they're supporting the weight of the turbo. I'm sticking with the factory exhaust manifold on Mutt's turbo in part because it's designed to hold the weight and live with the (considerable) heating and cooling and the expansion that goes with it. I have a friend in the Detroit area who makes turbo manifolds and other bits for (among others) auto makers and he says that turbo support is the most commonly overlooked area of a turbo system.

    Dan

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  • Beagle
    replied
    leave some extra money for a super-duper brand name wastegate? I'll reserve judgement but boost control on that particular block is pretty critical.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Dragweek 2020 is canceled. I was really looking forward to it. I am trying to make lemonade, I now have a little more “car money” to go ahead and turbo the mustang What I have now is 100% stock HO, T5, 4.10 spool. The car has an SFI flywheel and bell housing, lift arm lowers and solid uppers, torque box kit, subframes, 6-point bar, tube k-member. Electric fan, aluminum radiator, 3G alt, A/C, manual rack, shorty headers 2.5 H-Pipe, Flow masters (will be going away) Holley EFI Terminator X. It's safe to assume everything else stock.



    The plan is to make my own hot side starting with shorty headers flipped left to right. Am I missing anything, or would you suggest alternatives or additions? No part is too small to mention. I don’t expect this combination to be enough I figure I am mostly getting my feet wet, but the ultimate goal is to run 10.0x



    Turbo Kit Estimate

    Hot Side

    GT45 Turbo $160

    44mm WG $100

    Oil Feed / Return $50

    Exhaust Pipe $100

    DP Clamp $35

    flange $20

    Cold Side

    Intercooler $100

    Piping kit $100

    50 mm BOV $65

    3 Bar Map $50

    Fuel System

    340 lph pump $110

    SEP 850cc injectors or VSR Deka 80lb $335

    Flex fuel Sensor $55

    Other

    Fuel & Oil pressure sensors $75

    red RTV $5

    Ring and Pinion $100

    65mm TB $on hand

    Caster Camber Coilovers $ on hand

    total $1,460



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  • Russell
    replied
    I went to the track last night. My wife has the dragweek trailer at the beach this week so there was no hauling the tires and switching at the track. I really dont enjoy switching tires but I really dont like street driving on my racing tires either. I left the 225s on 10 holes on the front and I still have the axle breakers 275 BFGs on 10 holes that Dana hooked me too many years ago. With the spool I dont like having only one spare tire incase I have a flat. So i put both of the skinnies and the screw jack in the trunk just incase. The track i normally go to didnt have tnt this week so I went to Galot. It is a very nice track! They did have to do a clean up that took a VERY long time but other than that they did great getting the cars down the track. I would go back again. It was the frist time I had raced there sence it was Dunn-Benson. They let me scale the car it showed 3344 lbs after the second pass. The DA was kind of high last night 2949' and fell to 2510'.

    1.766, 8.799 @ 77.60
    1.791, 8.813 @ 77.67
    1.803, 8.800 @ 77.78
    1.74, 8.788 @ 77.51

    I did move the 2-step to a simple bracket behind the clutch pedal. I like it a lot better than having to hold the button. I can see in the log were it came on durring the shift but the rpm trace did not get down to the 2-step setting, Looks like the clutch pulls the rpm down. Do you think it hurts anything to leave it or does it need the extra switch to only activate in 1st gear?

    I did pull the timing back to 28* and I upped the target afr to 12.9. 76-78 MPH is pretty typical for the car so I would say it really didnt loose any MPH. I would say the ET was off its normally runs in the 8.6x but I am sure the extra weight in the trunk, the 10 holes, and the hight DA didn't help.

    The other item for the week was wheel speed sensor I orderd Cherry Hall effect sesonr and made a bracket to pick up the back of the wheel studs. I guess I have it wired wrong or programed work in teh Holley I could not get it to read even after taking it off and passing objects past. My internet seaches shown more than one way to wire the sensor. Black, Blue, brown, V+ ground and Output what is what? The Holley has a 5V+ sensor out put and a Batt+ out which is better to use?

    Any day at the track is a good day, any day the car returns to the shop under is own power is a great day! I did enjoy not have switch tires at the track. Maybe I should be looking at new DRs?

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  • Russell
    replied
    Far as I know there is nothing wrong with the Volvo motor. One of the keys to that was don't look at it while it's out. It was great when it came out it should be great going back in. I bet the extra 45 cubic inches help move the wagon better than just adding a top end kit. Though that would have been alot simpler.

    I was going to start adding speed parts. But I found out where I didn't set the inductive delay. So it might not have been getting all the timing. Then I want to test it. There is an on ramp close to my house. I might try to log a third gear pull from 60-80 and compare before and after. If it's the same I will install something.
    Last edited by Russell; June 19, 2020, 04:42 PM.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Sometimes you're an engineer! (folks - he are one.....)

    Great to see the Volvo engine is still out earning its keep. I told Dick it was a good one but he insisted on the crate motor.

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    Video of pass and going over data log.

    https://youtu.be/W0XvSg_5gc0

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