Project Mustang Consolidation

[DanStokes]

On the AC - I'm wondering if the expansion valve has muck in it. I bought the hose that contains the expansion valve on Rock Auto for my Stang and it wasn't too pricey Worth a look.

[Monster]

I signed up for a drag and drive in November. I decided to enter the stick shift class. I am expecting to have a knife in a gun fight, but I am going for the fun of it.

[Russell]

The summer sure did go by fast! I signed up for a drag and drive in November. I decided to enter the stick shift class. I am expecting to have a knife in a gun fight, but I am going for the fun of it.

Put some street miles on on the T5 clutch disc, so far so good. It has a little chatter at low engine speeds high clutch slip. Have not put it on the two step yet to see how it likes the 5k RPM hit.

Added a can of R134a I think it's got a clog, high side was very high and low side gets gets low and trips the low pressure switch. I assume it could use more but didn't add any more due to the high side pressure.

I changed the oil and transmission fluid. Just installed the JY flex sensor. I need to get some wire loom and route the wires.

I ordered a new radiator. Should be here Monday. I noticed signs of leaking where the fins and the tank join. Hopefully this will fix my 3000k RPM heating issue.

Need to order new belts, and a jacket.

I need to figure out if I am going to add an exhaust cut out. Then try schedule a dyno day. I would like to turn it up to +/-15psi hopefully put it +/-425 rwhp. I would like to get a test and tune. With another 75 HP I am sure my clutch tune will be off. I would like to see mid 7's (1/8 mile)

[Russell]

I thought about pulling the engine and transmission. But I don't have a cherry picker at home. Now with the turbo that adds a lot to pull. All the coolant hoses makes it a pain.

With the drive shaft loop I was not able to go straight up the forward into the bell housings. The shifter base hit the floor pan. I must have shifted the input / pilot bearing alignment. I pushed in the clutch a few times but that didn't help. A T5 is only around 75 pounds, but working alone it gets heavy quick. I think holding the clutch in allows the input to move more freely.

[BBR]

We just pulled the TR3550 out of Jake's '95 and swapped in the AOD. Not my favorite job by a lot!!!

[Captain]

Just to share your Pain.
Tried to explain to a Friend helping me
Pull and Rebuild the Transmission in The Timber Cruiser.
(1987 Suzuki Samurai). He insisted that the little 65 pound
Trans ... "What Can It Take to Pull it and Reinstall It" it's so small......
I tried telling him, it's WAY EASIER to pull both the Engine and Trans out of the Rig....
With a divorced transfer case, getting it out is No Problem,
It just has to Fall Out.
After rebuilding it, struggled for what seemed forever
To get it into that last inch (pilot bearing).
And yes the Tranny tunnel wasn't helping.
Funny thing.....both of our arms were wore out from
Doing this on a garage floor, let it drop down to let it hang there......
BLOOP, !!!! It Sucked Itself In !!! Quick Get the Bolts Started !!

Too this Day, when at Off Roading Rallyes, he Jokes,
On Captain 's rig, "Change a Light Bulb..... It's Easier to Pull the Engine and Tranny as A Unit First!"

[Russell]

Put the transmission in the mustang tonight. It won many, many rounds but after three hours under the car I put a stick between the clutch and the seat. Moved the clutch fork around some and it slid right in. I hurt, I either need to do more of this to get in shape or fine another hobby.

Every other time I have put a T5 on the back of a SBF it has been on the shop floor. And they were installed together. Doing it on jack stands is not fun. If you don't have a drive shaft loop it might be a little easier also the hump they put on manual transmission cars is more important than I previously knew, wish I would have gotten one when I put it together years ago.

[Russell]

Long time no up date. When to the track in March did better 1.70 7.91 @ 86.64 12.34 @ 112.36 I turned the power up on that run and it only went .02 fast with a lot more clutch slip. Going to have to tighten the tamer to get it to go faster. Need to get it a power level where I am going to leave it so I can tune the clutch.

I would like to put a flex fuel sensor on it and turn it up to about 15 psi. Bought a JY sensor, it's on the shelf/ list.

Transmission is grinding going into third pretty much any time I shift in higher RPMs. Dick was nice enough to hook me up with his old T5, I put it in a glass box labeled break in case of emergency! Lol. None of these T5's are rated for the power I am putting through them, and that one is almost too nice to trash. Folks online say there are a few mods that beef them up so I got a (V6 SN95 T5) guinea pig from the junkyard. Paul's rebuild book and the rebuild DVD from Bob. Fox length input, steel input retainer, 3-4 billet shift keys, billet steel cluster support, correct speedometer gears according to Ford Motorsport. If this one goes well I will do the same to Dick's, if not it might get thrown in there as is.

Now I need to pull it apart and check the clutch and flywheel.

[Russell]

It's currently in the house garage. While it's not heated. I can checked this morning and it was mid 40's. It's normal above freezing by 10 am. I don't think it would get from temp to frozen in two hours.

[DanStokes]

I'd drop in a gallon of AF. I always kept a small amount in Mutt just because - sometimes the shop gets below 32F when I'm being lazy during cold weather. My logic was that it was pretty dilute but I was saving my block (I hope) but it wouldn't have helped at 0F.

[Russell]

The thing is at work you could go out on breaks and get it up to operating Temps before it ever froze .could even leave it running if you have a removable steering wheel .

I might be willing to go out and run it during the day but the question is how long does it take to get from +190° to under 32°

[Dan Barlow]

The thing is at work you could go out on breaks and get it up to operating Temps before it ever froze .could even leave it running if you have a removable steering wheel .

[Loren]

Not being from cold country nor worrying about anti-freeze much, but once visiting a relative in the mountains, I was pretty disappointed to leave in the morning and have the car overheat only a few miles down the road, turns out the radiator had split wide-open during the night. I guess it depends on how cold it gets...

[Russell]

With the Cadillac out of commission. The mustang might do some daily driver duty. It currently has water in the coolent system. I have not worried about it in the garage. If I drive it to work. What are the chances it will freeze while I am at work?

Should I put antifreeze in it? I know it's a pain to clean off the race track so I just kept water.

[Russell]

Got back to the track yesterday. Switched from closed loop boost control to open to try to soften it up a little bit. I am pretty sure I was burning the clutch too much. Made some changes to the clutch tamer to slip the clutch less and was rewarded with a 1.68, 7.96 @ 87.01, 12.42 @ 111.88

There might be a little more ET in taking more slip out. Or I could put some more boost in it. Not sure which one will make it faster with less likely hood of breaking something.

I can't decide what I want to do for winter upgrades / maintenance. I think for upgrades I want to concentrate on data. I would like front wheel and drive shaft speed sensors, and an accelerometer.