Project Mustang Consolidation

[Russell]

if you're collecting EFI intakes - I have an edelbrock, with a phenolic spacer to go between the upper and lower, not sure I'll ever use it... came with a pile of SBF parts I couldn't pass up.

Your not helping I think I can say no, but how much shipped to 27591?
I was looking under the hood. From what it looks like the GT45 will be a tight fit. Is there another smaller sized turbo that will work well for a little more money but be easier to fit?

[Russell]

I am going to keep the A/C I don't like how most down pipes go beside the valve cover and down but the firewall. I think after I install the coil overs I can get the down pipe between the a arm and k member. There is alot of stuff under the hood. I see other cars that have tones of room. I really don't want to cut the car up, or rewire everything but that might be what it takes.

[milner351]

Russell - remind me in a week or so - we're having a party this weekend and preparations are all encompassing. I'd have to find the right box for the intake to fit into nicely - I'd probably want to bolt the upper to the lower with a couple fasteners just to keep things from getting damaged. I'm not much help on fitting turbo's in Foxes - the only I ever had was an SVO. There are sure a billion examples out there, just have to find one you like, I've even seen some folks mount turbos under the car way back behind the axle!

[Russell]

Russell - remind me in a week or so - we're having a party this weekend and preparations are all encompassing. I'd have to find the right box for the intake to fit into nicely - I'd probably want to bolt the upper to the lower with a couple fasteners just to keep things from getting damaged. I'm not much help on fitting turbo's in Foxes - the only I ever had was an SVO. There are sure a billion examples out there, just have to find one you like, I've even seen some folks mount turbos under the car way back behind the axle!

Sounds good, maybe let me know what you are thinking just for the intake before you go the trouble of looking for a box. Again I am trying not to buy non turbo parts right now.

[Russell]

I am still in buying parts mode. Turbo showed up yesterday. If you have 8 mins of you life that you don't want to ever get back: https://youtu.be/2A9NW2bnrvM

I did install the 3bar map sensor I got from EFI source. I need to work on the tune (start over)

[Russell]

I am going to install coil overs. I was going to install an old set of 70/30 that were given to me years ago. The coil overs will not fit over the top of the struts. I have heard some drill out the welds? Is that safe? The car currently has kyb agx I could reuse them they have a small top.

What would you do. I don't want to by new struts.

[DanStokes]

What is the recommendation of the coil-over maker? I'd look that up and go with their recommendation.

Dan

[Russell]

Knock on wood it looks like the BS bug has been squished! I did get the coil overs installed I took the easy route and just reused the KYB AGX that I originally put on the 89 back in the mid 2000's. I took it to the track and made one last pass on the OLD BFGs that Dan gave me years ago, broke the axle shaft on the 89 and started the search for a roller. They still put down a 1.80 second 60'! I swapped all four tires. I pulled the 225 fronts for skinnies, and put 28x9 ET Drags on the back. I had the car in "street car trim" meaning the skinnies and jack were in the trunk. So it was a little lighter for the rest of the runs. It put down a new PB 60' of 1.698!

I decided to use some Christmas Cash to take the car to the chassis dyno. I wanted to see what the car was making and play with the tune a little. We strapped the mustang down to the Underground Garage dyno and made some AFR and timing adjustments and even swapped a 65 mm TB but it keep outputting the same 212 HP and 280 ft*lbs. A last ditch effort to see a change i removed the water pump, alternator, AC, air-pump belt. It picked up 8 numbers on both. I am looking forward to getting the turbo on and getting it back on the dyno.

I have been working on long term projects / wish list. I have gotten power to my stand up air compressor and to the TIG welder.

[DanStokes]

Dyno time is always fun! You can get a lot of info in a short time even if the dyno numbers are a bit questionable. (Dynojets are iffy but relatively cheap - that's what I run mine on because I can afford it.) Great that you have some numbers to start with so now you can tell what happens when you do stuff.

Dan

[Russell]

We really did not max the timing or AFR out but I think 212 HP is about right the online calculator that estimates Flywheel HP from weight and ET puts it around 250, 15% drive line loss puts it at 212!

[Russell]

I have been doing some sanding and scuffing on the hood and trunk lid. There is a little rust I was thinking about using some rust converter.

1) Is rust converter all the same or is there a preferred brand?

2) will be time to buy primer soon, I might look into paint guns or I might try the $10 one I got from HF.

[SuperBuickGuy]

1) phosphorous zinc is rust converter.... brand name means little. With that said, some come in a more gel-like substance and that can be useful in certain situations
2) HF $10 guns are made for primer.... I keep a half dozen as back stock ...

[DanStokes]

I'm with SBG - self-etching primer (zinc and acid based) is the best first coat. Not fond of "encapsulating" rust - just sand out as much as possible and let the self-etching eat into it for a primary substrate.

Dan

[Russell]

They don't have a lot of rust I think it's all on the underside, I got the 1/4" air grinder out with. Red disc. Man I like the 2 stage compressor! It eats the rust pretty good I think I can get it out I mio not have to treat it. But the seams are the worst.