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  • Originally posted by Dan Barlow View Post
    The thing is at work you could go out on breaks and get it up to operating Temps before it ever froze .could even leave it running if you have a removable steering wheel .
    I might be willing to go out and run it during the day but the question is how long does it take to get from +190 to under 32
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    • I'd drop in a gallon of AF. I always kept a small amount in Mutt just because - sometimes the shop gets below 32F when I'm being lazy during cold weather. My logic was that it was pretty dilute but I was saving my block (I hope) but it wouldn't have helped at 0F.

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      • It's currently in the house garage. While it's not heated. I can checked this morning and it was mid 40's. It's normal above freezing by 10 am. I don't think it would get from temp to frozen in two hours.
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        • Long time no up date. When to the track in March did better 1.70 7.91 @ 86.64 12.34 @ 112.36 I turned the power up on that run and it only went .02 fast with a lot more clutch slip. Going to have to tighten the tamer to get it to go faster. Need to get it a power level where I am going to leave it so I can tune the clutch.

          I would like to put a flex fuel sensor on it and turn it up to about 15 psi. Bought a JY sensor, it's on the shelf/ list.

          ​​​​​​Transmission is grinding going into third pretty much any time I shift in higher RPMs. Dick was nice enough to hook me up with his old T5, I put it in a glass box labeled break in case of emergency! Lol. None of these T5's are rated for the power I am putting through them, and that one is almost too nice to trash. Folks online say there are a few mods that beef them up so I got a (V6 SN95 T5) guinea pig from the junkyard. Paul's rebuild book and the rebuild DVD from Bob. Fox length input, steel input retainer, 3-4 billet shift keys, billet steel cluster support, correct speedometer gears according to Ford Motorsport. If this one goes well I will do the same to Dick's, if not it might get thrown in there as is.

          Now I need to pull it apart and check the clutch and flywheel.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by Russell; June 12, 2023, 07:23 PM.
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          • Put the transmission in the mustang tonight. It won many, many rounds but after three hours under the car I put a stick between the clutch and the seat. Moved the clutch fork around some and it slid right in. I hurt, I either need to do more of this to get in shape or fine another hobby.

            Every other time I have put a T5 on the back of a SBF it has been on the shop floor. And they were installed together. Doing it on jack stands is not fun. If you don't have a drive shaft loop it might be a little easier also the hump they put on manual transmission cars is more important than I previously knew, wish I would have gotten one when I put it together years ago.
            Last edited by Russell; July 24, 2023, 10:35 PM.
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            • Just to share your Pain.
              Tried to explain to a Friend helping me
              Pull and Rebuild the Transmission in The Timber Cruiser.
              (1987 Suzuki Samurai). He insisted that the little 65 pound
              Trans ... "What Can It Take to Pull it and Reinstall It" it's so small......
              I tried telling him, it's WAY EASIER to pull both the Engine and Trans out of the Rig....
              With a divorced transfer case, getting it out is No Problem,
              It just has to Fall Out.
              After rebuilding it, struggled for what seemed forever
              To get it into that last inch (pilot bearing).
              And yes the Tranny tunnel wasn't helping.
              Funny thing.....both of our arms were wore out from
              Doing this on a garage floor, let it drop down to let it hang there......
              BLOOP, !!!! It Sucked Itself In !!! Quick Get the Bolts Started !!

              Too this Day, when at Off Roading Rallyes, he Jokes,
              On Captain 's rig, "Change a Light Bulb..... It's Easier to Pull the Engine and Tranny as A Unit First!"

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              • We just pulled the TR3550 out of Jake's '95 and swapped in the AOD. Not my favorite job by a lot!!!
                Life is short. Be a do'er and not a shoulda done'er.
                1969 Galaxie 500 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ild-it-s-alive
                1998 Mustang GT https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...60-and-a-turbo
                1983 Mustang GT 545/552/302/Turbo302/552 http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...485-bbr-s-83gt
                1973 F-250 BBF Turbo Truck http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...uck-conversion
                1986 Ford Ranger EFI 545/C6 https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...tooth-and-nail

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                • I thought about pulling the engine and transmission. But I don't have a cherry picker at home. Now with the turbo that adds a lot to pull. All the coolant hoses makes it a pain.

                  With the drive shaft loop I was not able to go straight up the forward into the bell housings. The shifter base hit the floor pan. I must have shifted the input / pilot bearing alignment. I pushed in the clutch a few times but that didn't help. A T5 is only around 75 pounds, but working alone it gets heavy quick. I think holding the clutch in allows the input to move more freely.
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                  • The summer sure did go by fast! I signed up for a drag and drive in November. I decided to enter the stick shift class. I am expecting to have a knife in a gun fight, but I am going for the fun of it.

                    Put some street miles on on the T5 clutch disc, so far so good. It has a little chatter at low engine speeds high clutch slip. Have not put it on the two step yet to see how it likes the 5k RPM hit.

                    Added a can of R134a I think it's got a clog, high side was very high and low side gets gets low and trips the low pressure switch. I assume it could use more but didn't add any more due to the high side pressure.

                    I changed the oil and transmission fluid. Just installed the JY flex sensor. I need to get some wire loom and route the wires.

                    I ordered a new radiator. Should be here Monday. I noticed signs of leaking where the fins and the tank join. Hopefully this will fix my 3000k RPM heating issue.

                    Need to order new belts, and a jacket.

                    I need to figure out if I am going to add an exhaust cut out. Then try schedule a dyno day. I would like to turn it up to +/-15psi hopefully put it +/-425 rwhp. I would like to get a test and tune. With another 75 HP I am sure my clutch tune will be off. I would like to see mid 7's (1/8 mile)​
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                    • Originally posted by Russell View Post
                      I signed up for a drag and drive in November. I decided to enter the stick shift class. I am expecting to have a knife in a gun fight, but I am going for the fun of it.

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                      • On the AC - I'm wondering if the expansion valve has muck in it. I bought the hose that contains the expansion valve on Rock Auto for my Stang and it wasn't too pricey Worth a look.

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                        • Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
                          On the AC - I'm wondering if the expansion valve has muck in it. I bought the hose that contains the expansion valve on Rock Auto for my Stang and it wasn't too pricey Worth a look.
                          If I had a recovery tank I would draw it down an put a line on it. The compressor and the evaporator are old ford parts. Lines drier, condenser been replaced. I wonder where the muck came from? It could need a new compressor?

                          It's pretty cool here the last few days. Hopefully the weather will be good in November so it will be ok.

                          Amazon did not deliver the wire loom yesterday as stated. I would like to get that and route the flex fuel wires. I need to nut a bolt it while it's on stands. After that it's flush the old radiator and block then install the new radiator. It's scheduled to be here Monday. Tuesday the rear brake pads for the Cadillac should be here they are grinding.

                          Then it tunning. I had custom tables to control the IAC, because I had trouble getting it to return to idle without stalling but the flex fuel needs them so set up a new file to use the Holley IAC control. The idle was never great, it was ok-ish I did have some tables to increase idle speed when the AC compressor is on. With the AC cycling it made the idle ever more erratic.

                          Nothing like building an all new tune before for a drag and drive event!

                          40 days
                          ​​​
                          Last edited by Russell; September 29, 2023, 05:11 AM.
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                          • I stopped procrastinating and hit order at Summit says it will be here Thursday.

                            I ordered one of their exhaust pipe donuts. Seemed to be the cheapest way to get bends. I ordered three sets of spark plugs, new seatbelts and a fire jacket.

                            My new radiator got delivered today. Hopefully I can get it in tomorrow.

                            The rear pads came for my DD and it needs an oil change. (Things I don't want to work on.).​

                            Drove it today. It stalled a few times. When I clutched it and over reved a few times once it was at idle. So it needs work. I had played with the PID setting for the IAC trying to get the surge out of it. I guess it's needs more work.

                            ​​​​​​Stopped by Sheetz on the way home to add some E85. The pump kept clicking off so I only put to two gallons in. Flexfuel sensor came up to 23% Closed loop fuel corrections were +/-1% most of the way home so I would say the content offset is working well.
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                            • New radiator is in so far it's has not gotten over 189 measured coming out of the intake/ heater hose. It has a 180 thermostat. We will see next summer how it works.

                              So far so good on the flex fuel install it's up to around E50 in the tank.

                              Cut the dough nut into quarters and came out the side of the downpipe, then over under the balancer and 90 back down towards the ground with a v-band and one side capped off. Hopefully it's long enough to keep the O2 sensor happy, and it picks up some power. I feel like the stock h-pipe or old flowmaster cat-back is more restricted than the bull horn I had on it at first.

                              DD is back in action, one pad was very thin the other was metal on Metal. It's kinda like a Cadillac compared to the 2500, and uses half the fuel.

                              Fingers crossed dyno and TNT next week. I have three sets of fresh spark plugs. I think I will run it as is hopefully it will be close to before. Put a fresh set of plugs in run it and check them. I would like to figure out which cylinder is the hot cylinder so I can keep an eye on it. I don't plan on chasing max power with ignition, just want to keep it safe. I do plan to turn it up until I get 15psi, 425rwhp, or it stops picking up whichever happens first. I have been warned to that my fuel system might be marginal.
                              Last edited by Russell; October 20, 2023, 07:45 PM.
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                              • Mustang did good on the test drive, the top radiator hose was leaking a bit I tightened the clamp a bit, time will tell if it seals. Tired a new boost control method. It's boost by RPM the table outputs duty cycle to a 4 port Mac valve.

                                Saw a peak of 11.5 PSI the all seasons were having some trouble when the boost came on. Looking forward to getting it on the strip and turning it up some more!
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