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  • Russell
    replied
    I don't want to say how many hours I have looked at wiring diagrams. I think I figured out how it was wired and a way to get it going again. I have a few questions.

    Ford powers the AC relay from the eec relay and both relays use same ground, is the Holley ok with that or should I add another relay.

    The Holley instructions called for the coil to be powered from a relay. I didn't see on in the Ford diagram. Should I add one in? This based on a 1989 wiring harness / dash.

    Click image for larger version.   Name:	IMG_20200218_232217_875.jpg  Views:	0  Size:	89.8 KB  ID:	57288Click image for larger version.   Name:	IMG_20200219_001704_945.jpg  Views:	0  Size:	86.2 KB  ID:	57289
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Russell; February 19, 2020, 10:18 AM.

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  • Russell
    replied
    I think I am making this harder than it should be. I was trying to not cut up my factory harness. I bought a box of wiring harness connectors off eBay it has most of the ones I will need and have been studying the factory wiring diagram trying to figure out what I need and what goes where. If I didn't want to keep the A/C water temp and oil pressure gauge it would be lot easier. I think the fuel pump power runs through the engine harness as well.

    I have been thinking about going to the junkyard and looking at the other late 80's fords to see if there is a factory harness I can weed out. The smarter thing to do would be cut up the one I have.
    Attached Files

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  • Russell
    replied
    Got the O2 harness and passenger seat out yesterday. Tonight I changed the CTS and IAT. Then pulled the main harness through the firewall. Hooked up the TFI, injectors, IAT and CTS. So far it's going pretty good. Took a short video then my phone died. Hope to pull the power harness tomorrow.
    https://youtu.be/4_4lffErVaY

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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    Originally posted by Russell View Post
    ...Holley instructions say the Wide band O2 should be facing down. The bungs in my H-Pipe are up. What will happen if I use the existing bung? False readings? Shorted sensor life? How much is a replacement sensor?...
    It is my understanding that they don't want condensation getting trapped in the O2 sensor. Mine are on the sides of the collectors and seem to be fine.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Not much to report on the Terminator X install. I have been unplugging and not cutting. Was thinking I could use the harness on another car some day. I got the small vacuum can out of the fender well and the solenoids for the air pump valves. Started to pull the O2 harness to find it connects to the low oil sensor.

    I would like to keep my factory oil pressure and temperature gauges working. The wires run through the main harness and I think the go to the black and grey connect on the driver's side firewall. I also need to figure out a stand alone A/C harness.

    Would other Ford vehicles from this error have the same connections?

    The Holley instructions say the Wide band O2 should be facing down. The bungs in my H-Pipe are up. What will happen if I use the existing bung? False readings? Shorted sensor life? How much is a replacement sensor?

    Is one bank on the 5.0 known to be leaner than the other? I would like to put the O2 sensor on the leaner side.

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  • BBR
    replied
    Heck idk. Somewhere around there. Jake was decidedly more aggressive with it on RMRW than I ever was.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Originally posted by BBR View Post
    Tach it up snd let it rip!!
    What do you launch your's at? I was shooting for between 4-4500. Looking forward to the two step

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  • BBR
    replied
    Tach it up snd let it rip!!

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  • Russell
    replied
    I picked up a new DA sander from HF it works well and my air little compressor do ok. I got spare hood out of inventory and started sanding it. I am trying get all the shine off, still need to sand some more.

    I got the Terminator X and have started removing the factory wiring harness.

    I put up a pair of one season old 28x9 MT Drag. I have been racing lately on 275/50/15 MT DR (26") I wonder how it will like the bias 28"?

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  • Russell
    replied
    Been slack on the sanding, but I did take the labor money from the insurance, my birthday and Christmas cash and placed an order for a:
    //www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/terminator_x/terminator_x_and_x_max_ford_kits/

    Looking forward to having data logging and dipping my toes into efi tunning.

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  • Russell
    replied
    180 dry cuts better and is easier for me to see the low spots than the 220 wet. Still need more but getting closer.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Russell; December 18, 2019, 06:36 AM.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    180 should be fine. Remember, sandpaper is supplies not tools! People tend to use sandpaper far too long before changing and if it gets plugged it'll leave gouges as you work the panel. The purpose of wet sanding is to keep the paper clean(er) so you can do the same work dry but you'll go thru more paper. Sometimes I'll opt to dry sand if the area is smaller or I just don't feel like making such a mess.

    Following the 180 you'll probably need to hit it with 400, prime, sand the primer with 400 or 600 (depending on your patience - finer is better), seal, then shoot color.

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    Glad to hear. I think most of the clear will be gone by the time the low spots come out blocking.

    Any harm is blocking with 180 dry I have a roll of it. I think that might be easier to block dry, wet it hard to see what is no longer shiny.


    ​​

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    If the clear is in good shape you can rough it up (called making "tooth") and spray over it. However, like roof shingles there's a limit as to how many layers will hold up. I've forgotten that guideline and have no clue how many layers are on your car now so you might want to do an Internet search. It really isn't TOO hard to knock several layers off with sandpaper and if you put some effort into it you can use the existing paint as if it was primer and smooth out old scratches, etc. and get a better finish than you had before. The car doesn't have to be totally naked, just get the thick parts worked down.

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    Took the trunk lid off and removed the two emblems. They pulled some paint off with them so I hit those areas with some 80 grit dry. The parts store didn't have 180 wet so I came home with 220 wet. Have gone over it a couple times but it still needs more.

    ​​​​​​The existing paint seems to be in pretty good shape. It's a base clear respray. Seems like I have heard before that all the clear needed to come off. Is this true or is a good scuff good enough?

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