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  • #61
    I was cleaning up the rear end housing from the c clip elim leak and I think the axle may not have been trimmed down to speck. I downloaded the instructions. It said leave an 1/8 inch of the tube. There is more. How much drag should be on a c clip elim? They would not free spin?
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

    PB 60' 1.49
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    • #62
      Worked on the rearend a little. Set up my new to me bench grinder with a wire wheel and cleaned the bolts. Ground the axle tubes back a little then wiped them out. Pulled everything off the backing plates but the parking break cables and got the top few layers off.

      Going to buy some antiseize for the c-clip eliminator bolts and throw the axles back in so it will be a roller again. It needs to be washed bad.
      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
      1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

      PB 60' 1.49
      ​​​​​​

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      • #63
        Got the axles in last Friday and the cover on and oil filled. Put the tires on and put it back on the ground no more Pro Jack stand! for now it will go back up soon. Going to push it out and give it a bath.
        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

        PB 60' 1.49
        ​​​​​​

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        • #64
          but it's still purple
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • #65
            Plum Crazy!

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            • #66
              The purple is holding the rust inside! It I ever do a total body paint I think I would change the color.

              C-clip eliminators I hope they don't leak [/URL]

              4.10 gears and spool "street car"?




              There is a grove in the cover, should I worry about that? it did not have a gasket before, maybe that will make enough space?
              Last edited by Russell; September 15, 2015, 05:12 AM.
              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

              PB 60' 1.49
              ​​​​​​

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              • #67
                4.10's are fine. I think it's the "Go To" gear with an AOD. The spool and rain probably not my first choice for a "street car" but then again, Lutz is out driving a full on Pro Mod and calling it a "Street car" this week.
                Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by Beagle View Post
                  Ahh.. okay. I thought maybe you guys were putting P/S goo in the T5 and I got that confused tilted head look.
                  Not sure if this was ever cleared up. I put one QT of Lucas ATF goo in the T5 and fill the rest with mecron.

                  I hope to keep this car man pedal equipped!
                  http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                  1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                  PB 60' 1.49
                  ​​​​​​

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                  • #69
                    generally they have a groove in the cover because the entire housing twisted under load.... perhaps find a rock cover from one of the 4x4 shops? add a bit of strength to the hope it stays together....
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • #70
                      Yep, what he said. Cast will distort a fair amount under stress without cracking, and those bearing caps/bolts will only restrain just so much power.

                      If you are going to be putting any kind of real power to it again, maybe some ARP studs and stronger caps? And/or a cover with the preload bolts that are screwed in to contact the caps to limit their movement?

                      Like this -

                      Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                      • #71
                        I have a cover similar to that. It puts a little pressure on the caps with those two bolts on the sides. I can't remember exactly how much but seemed really light. I really don't know whether it is doing any thing for me or not, but I was having leaking issues and seems to have fixed that.

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                        • #72
                          Stuff breaks from flex and fatigue...........stop the movement and you stop the flex, eliminating the fatigue. Stuff then lasts longer.

                          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                          • #73
                            Put some beefy tack welds on the housing and tubes to keet the tubes in..And to keep flex to a minimum
                            On derby use rears, We weld them completely..
                            I thought that maybe the 4:10's were thicker than the stock gears.. Some 10 bolt GM's will show a mark much like that when going into the 4's with 2-3 series housings.

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                            • #74
                              Originally posted by Russell View Post
                              Picture for you visual people I say its a good 15 footer!


                              NOTCH! Love the Notch backs. One day i will get one of these. Great find by the way!
                              CHECK US OUT AT:
                              www.ridetech.com

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                              • #75
                                Thanks! Hopefully it has some good life left in it. There where a few corners that where cut hopefully they will not be to costly to fix.

                                The Tubes are welded to the center section all the way around.

                                Will it need an after market cover for phase 1? Stockish 302 ci engine 250 +/- HP T5 with 26" drag radials. I was thinking wait till it gets a power adder.
                                http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                                1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                                PB 60' 1.49
                                ​​​​​​

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