Project Mustang Consolidation

[silver_bullet]

kind of like us for our projects... 4.3 and 3.8 GM v-6 support is dwindling...

[Russell]

Built a engine cradle out of scrap 2x4 so I can test fit the flywheel and scatter sheild.

[DanStokes]

That'll work! The first half of a pine dyno.

Dan

[Russell]

I have always wanted my own dyno! Dan can you draw me some plans I will get started, I have a pile of scrap / left over wood from the shop project that I am storing / hoarding.


So after I get the new SFI billet flywheel, an SFI bellhousing bolted up and the dial indicator mounted how do I rotate the engine and watch the dial at the same time? Or do I rotate so many degrees check reading? How many readings would you take?

[DanStokes]

I have always wanted my own dyno! Dan can you draw me some plans I will get started, I have a pile of scrap / left over wood from the shop project that I am storing / hoarding.


So after I get the new SFI billet flywheel, an SFI bellhousing bolted up and the dial indicator mounted how do I rotate the engine and watch the dial at the same time? Or do I rotate so many degrees check reading? How many readings would you take?

I rotated mine with the flywheel teeth so I could look at the indicator as I rotated - worked well. I'll see if I can find a pic of the dyno I have in mind.....

Here's the best pic I could find. Note the plank in the foreground. It doesn't show the other end but it pushed on a scale with a big T-screw. They knew how long the distance was from the plank to the scale and how many pounds from the scale reading, so ft/lbs. Measure RPM and apply tq x rpm/5252 and you have it. This happens to be the chassis dyno version but you can do the same with an engine dyno. Of course, these had like 8 HP so your results may differ.

https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...g&action=click

Dan

[TheSilverBuick]

The hardest part was finding a "center", but this is how I used a magnetic base and turned the flywheel through the starter hole using the teeth and pry bar.

[DanStokes]

Basically what I did. There are pics in the Volvo build thread if that would be helpful.

Dan

[Russell]

Did not get any work done yesterday but I did unrap the goods. The FMS flywheel is a nice piece in stead of adding material for the counter balance they removed it from the other side. Every time I look at the bellhousing I have to remind my self how much I like walking.

[Huskinhano]

I forgot to take a picture of the back side of my wheel. It's etched with it's SFI serial number. Here's a shameless plug of my P motor hopefully going in tomorrow. Stock exhaust manifolds are only temporary. I have to wait for $20 dollar bills to grow back on the money tree

[Russell]

Can you take a picture of the clutch side? Did you find out if they just sell the other weight to go to 28 oz?

That's one pretty motor! Mine will not be pretty.

[DanStokes]

Nice oil pan!

Dan

[RideTech_Ryan]

yeah - stock cam too. Me too. BUUUUAAAHHH.

to be transparent without giving it all away, the white car is carbureted, is not a dual plane, and has long tubes. It will pass inspection here because it's 29 years old and an antique. Stock long block and a dremel. Not stock cam. Let's be realistic though, that would be TWO projects out the door any time soon. The black car is not low budget, and I'm not pulling the heads back off to put E7's on. I've got 1100 in the white car as it sits, and I'll list everything I bought for it. It is low budget.

***** EXCEPT *****

and I'm dead serious. If anyone has a B303 laying around for cheap, I would put it in the white car. If you know somebody with a B303 (All hail Beecam!), please get me in touch with them. I might get so churned up about a BEECAM!! I finish the black car and pull the white one in ASAP.

(I'm back at the computer desk for as long as the project lasts, can't say a lot more than that. The guys I'm working with are extremely smart, so it's enjoyable enough.)

THAT SOUNDS GREAT!

[milner351]

remember what you're measuring - this one is easy to make your brain turn into scrambled eggs.... you're looking for two concentric circles.... (you don't have to center the dial indicator on the flywheel - that was my hang up originally)
usually you have to remove a bolt or two or three bolts to find a nice flat spot to put the magnetic base on.
having the small face "mini dial" indicator helps... I got one from Amazon - I'll let you know how it works (cheap mitutoyo knock off)

most folks say to make a mark every 90 degrees - and record needle position (12, 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions for example)

depending on where you start with your zero (and confirm it returns to zero when you've rotated 360 degrees so you know it hasn't moved during the process)

the readings will tell you which way you need to move it.

I bought both .007 and .014 dowels from Rob McK - we'll see if I need them - they were $29 a set -
Russell - I'd be happy to send you the ones I don't use if you need them.

That quicktime looks WAY smaller than my lakewood - that will fit in a much smaller tunnel than the AOD I butchered my 62 for.... hopefully I have plenty of room for the lakewood/TKO.

[DanStokes]

I did my mount by drilling a hole in a 12" steel rule (NOT easy!) and bolting it on with one of the PP bolts. The other end fit nicely next to another PP bolt so I installed a fender washer on that bolt and just squished the rule in place. The mag base attached nicely to the rule - worked great and now I have a steel rule with a hole in it. I can mail it off to Wendell if helpful.

Dan

[Huskinhano]

Russell, I'm not sure if I took pictures. A lot of the time working on this is when a have a couple free minutes and just get to it. This past Wednesday the pressure plate bolts came in the mail. I went down to the garage and put the clutch on while the wife was yelling for me to come up and eat dinner.

I can run this flywheel on a 0, 28 or 50 oz motor and I can use any and pressure plate, 5.0 with dowels and M8 bolts or Borg & Beck 3 finger with 5/16" bolts. Pretty much the universal sbf flywheel.