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  • Russell
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    Offer still stands to bring it here.....

    Dan
    Thanks Dan! If you were in Raleigh I would take you up on it. I don't want to drive it to Wilmington and it's too wide for my trailer .

    I think I can get it I just don't enjoy suspension work.

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    Offer still stands to bring it here.....

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    Originally posted by Beagle View Post
    I did mine in a cheapo 12 ton press. It was not a big thing compared to getting the parts off to replace the i-beam bushings and radius arm bushings. If you ordered from HF, the one I got years ago was a decent enough tool. They're on sale right now.

    If you're going to sell it, put whatever in there. They all work fine for a while... if you're going to keep it, get something with a lifetime warranty. I don't know what brand actually lasts, the Moog stuff I thought I was doing a good thing by buying did not impress me for longevity. I'm pointing that out because I would have spent five times as much to not have to take the front end apart again (mine needs work again).

    Did you pull a wheel and press/pull on the rotor to see if the ball joints have excessive wear? They hold up pretty good... it's the tie rod stuff that goes sloppy on mine, and the long one off the pitman arm that apparently never gets replaced when other people do it. Pickle fork will take care of all of that.
    I didn't take the wheel off but I did jack it up. With one hand on the top and the other on the bottom I can rock the bottom of the wheel in and out enough I don't want to drive it out of the subdivision. I guess I need to check the other rod ends. I almost don't want to check them, I will bet you lunch they are junk. Don't you need another Lightning project?

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    I did mine in a cheapo 12 ton press. It was not a big thing compared to getting the parts off to replace the i-beam bushings and radius arm bushings. If you ordered from HF, the one I got years ago was a decent enough tool. They're on sale right now.

    If you're going to sell it, put whatever in there. They all work fine for a while... if you're going to keep it, get something with a lifetime warranty. I don't know what brand actually lasts, the Moog stuff I thought I was doing a good thing by buying did not impress me for longevity. I'm pointing that out because I would have spent five times as much to not have to take the front end apart again (mine needs work again).

    Did you pull a wheel and press/pull on the rotor to see if the ball joints have excessove wear? They hold up pretty good... it's the tie rod stuff that goes sloppy on mine, and the long one off the pitman arm that apparently never gets replaced when other people do it. Pickle fork will take care of all of that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    I ordered a ball joints press. Ball joints very in price alot. I have heard some of the old name brands are not as good as they once were. Suggestions? Unless I get a really good idea. I will get something middle of the road off rockauto

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post

    We use chain and hammer method.
    None of that fancy tool stuff
    usually saves the grease cups too
    yes this.

    it's also very therapeutic to be hitting something that hard and know it's good.....

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    Bring it over and we'll do the ball joints. 'Tain't that hard - I did the ones on Truck a couple of years ago. We can DO this. I have a press and the ball joint press thingy from HF - between that and the rent-a-tool at Advance we can get 'er done. It'll be easier to sell it if it's safe and drives out OK.

    Dan
    We use chain and hammer method.
    None of that fancy tool stuff
    usually saves the grease cups too

    Leave a comment:


  • DanStokes
    replied
    Bring it over and we'll do the ball joints. 'Tain't that hard - I did the ones on Truck a couple of years ago. We can DO this. I have a press and the ball joint press thingy from HF - between that and the rent-a-tool at Advance we can get 'er done. It'll be easier to sell it if it's safe and drives out OK.

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    Other than a little surface rust, this one is "rust free". How hard is it to replace ball joints? The big c-clap looking tool is $100, I have a press that might get the job done. But that just more time/money. I am not sure how easy (discount price) it will be to sell a truck with bad ball joints. But the slippery slope of when to pull the plug. If I never pull the plug it will be years and $1,000s before it's like new again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Captain
    replied
    Sorry, I don't have a Value for you.....
    AND I am in the Twelve Step Program and NOT to DRAG Anymore Rusty Orphans Home !!!
    Hopefully some Entry Level Driver (aka High School Kid) would love to have it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    I really should know that I can't have two project cars at one time. I have cancelled my Dragweek registration. The turbo is not getting finished. I worked on the Lightning some I found one of the reasons it doesn't drive great, the ball joints need to be replaced. I didn't check the other front end parts. I think it time to cut loose the time / money suck. So I guess this is like the coming soon ads.

    1993 Red Lightning 240k Miles. Other than the genuine 2008 SVT Mustang Cobra wheels it's pretty much stock. It runs good, it drives fair, it needs ball joints. It could use some cosmetic work or call it patina. I have enjoyed working on it but I am ready for someone else carry the torch. What's it worth?
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Russell; August 30, 2021, 06:23 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    Man I have no idea. Probably more than you think, maybe not as much? Have you seen what a 87-93 LX Notch that hasn't been completely dorked are going for? Have a look around here for comparison:



    I replaced everything with rubber and/or a bearing, and it was good for 20-25k solid miles. Then it started declining but it's still pretty predictable. Moog doesn't mean what it used to. Chinesium is around 200 bucks with a lot of labor for most everything metal that moves. It will probably be cooler before I crawl under it, sadly, but that's where I'll head most likely.

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    Drove the lightning to work Friday. The majority of my drive is on the interstate. I keep my speed at 65-70 and it was not to bad. Didn't seem to really like it going 75. Motor runs great.

    Beagle, what did you do to improve handling on your truck?

    99% of me is leaning towards finished cleaning it and listing it for sale. 1% of me says panther crossmember swap. Any clue what a high mileage Gen 1 lighting is worth?

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

    how about "fast roll at 100?"
    So far I have managed to keep the red side up. Don't ever plan on getting any where near 100. I ran it up to 70 for a split second (DEER!) on the back road with the windows down. Now I remember why I used to think 75 was fast
    Last edited by Russell; August 19, 2021, 06:03 PM.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    and in other rolls.... this should be titled "why there are no more Ford Escort Mk IVs"



    for those who wonder why I've never been tempted to go back rally racing...

    Leave a comment:

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