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  • cstmwgn
    replied
    Originally posted by Russell View Post
    The GT500 injectors are on back order, there is a set for alittle more with a different part number on eBay. I might just buy a new set of Deka 80s. They are not that much more than deka 60s. (More room to grow)
    This is a question (from a learning perspective) - will 80s cause small pluse-width / low duty cycle richnesss issues?

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  • Russell
    replied
    The GT500 injectors are on back order, there is a set for alittle more with a different part number on eBay. I might just buy a new set of Deka 80s. They are not that much more than deka 60s. (More room to grow)

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    Double post
    Last edited by Russell; April 26, 2021, 05:24 PM.

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  • Beagle
    replied
    Spit balling here, and you've probably already checked this stuff, so feel free to return it for 100% refund. My only concern with the dohc style injectors is some of the Ford ones are a split pattern. How much it really matters, I don't know. If you have one hanging open, though, that's bad. Bent rods are more of a hassle than injectors.

    My gut says that you might have a fuel pump issue, even if the injector (one of them) is hung wide open, the pump makes enough volume and pressure that it shouldn't be at zero (it has to feed 8 of them at 80+ duty cycle and maintain pressure/volume).

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  • Russell
    replied
    I am 0-2 with these injectors. I got them to click after the ultrasonic cleaning. Made a wooden box to help hold the injector a jar and the valve stem and sprayed some WD-40 through them. Put them back in and the upper intake back on. Redid the tune, I had add a bunch of fuel trying to get it to run. It fired right up an started to idle. I put a car seat in the back and my 4 year old son and I went for a ride. It was great for the first 1/4 mile about a half mile in it was bucking, and surging stalled out. It will fire but wants to die right away. AFR was all over the place. When I key on the fuel pressure doesn't hold on the rail it goes to zero. I am guessing hung open, who knows if some are stuck shut again.

    Time to take them back out again. I don't get alot of shop time and these things are killing me, maybe I should just cut my losses and buy new.

    I think I will call Monday and see if I can get a set of those new ford 62lb GT500 injectors. Does anyone know how tall they are? If they are not in stock I might try SEP 80s.

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Sounds like progress. I'm pleased that 'Stanger's injectors seem to all be present and accounted for after a 13 year sleep. The ol' boy actually sounds pretty good. See you soon!

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    The ultrasonic cleaner was "on sale" for $75 at HF it heats also. I dumped most of a can of Seafoam in and ran it for 3 mins and 6 came out clicking. The other two after some tapping and a small shot of B-12 started to click. I am going to rig something to try to check the spray before I put them back in. The track cancelled TNT for tonight "too cold?"

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  • Beagle
    replied
    I used some tygon weedeater fuel line heat shrinked onto a nozzle tube from a can of Berryman B12, a 12v battery with momentary switch, and a couple of aligator clips to test/clean a set of injectors recently. The fuel line fits in the supply orifice for the injector pretty tight, but wear goggles, B12 in the eyes burns when the nozzle tube comes out and the pressurized b12 goes everywhere. 3 hands makes it easier - hold the injector and the can, push the can's button, push the momentary button to open the injector solenoid, hopefully it sprays.

    Chances are they are stuck closed, b12 may dissolve whatever has them glued shut. Mine sat for about ten years, 7 out of 8 cleaned up and since I only needed 3, I called it success. I would have kept trying for a couple of days on the eighth one if I had needed it. Let the chemicals do their work kind of thing. They are a solenoid so I wouldn't just leave it plugged in without a switch - although thinking about an injector at 100% duty cycle, they are pretty much on all the time and I guess the fuel keeps them cool.

    I didn't take a picture because it's literally a one inch section of weedeater fuel line stuffed over about an inch of the spray can tube and heat shrink tubing to help clamp it in place. The size was 3/32 I believe, a lawn mower or hobby shop should have several different sizes. Choose one that fits sort of tight in the injector supply orifice. With heatshrink, mine was a tight fit on Ford inlets. The left side pin is the power side if I remember correctly.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Found out the high fuel pressure was self inflicted. I extended the return to the bottom of the tank because I heard it will reduce aeration. The rubber hose got a kink and caused the pressure to spike. It's now back to normal fuel pressure.

    I installed a used set of deka 60s they were flowed /tested back in June last year. Best I can tell they are locked up solid. . Any way to get them unstuck? Looks like I will not be making TNT Friday night

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Randy, the dyno guy at Carolina Dyno, just switched Dick's Volvo over to the Holley EFI system and Dick says it's a night and day difference. It now idles properly, starts perfectly, and has lost the surges, etc. When we spoke he wasn't yet sure about fuel economy improvements but Randy expects a big improvement. With any luck we'll get together this Friday and I'll get a test drive in the new and improved Volvo. EZ-EFI is now officially on my s#it list.

    Dan

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  • Russell
    replied
    Holley just released an I/O expansion module. So I ordered one of course it's already back ordered.

    Took the mustang for a drive. The Holley Terminator X really is an amazing EEC. With wildly changing fuel pressure it was able to pull fuel an keep it running great. Going down the road the closed loop / learn was pulling 40% more or less to keep it on the target afr.

    I think one of the reasons it ran so good was it still has the stock injectors. When I put injectors 3 times the size I am not sure if they can get the pulse width down with 100+ psi of pressure in the rail.

    I would like to PWM the fuel pump. What is a good source for Solid State Relays?

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  • Russell
    replied
    I am still loosing the paint game. Seems like I have a mental block. I did install my Aeromotive 340lph pump on a otherwise stock fuel system. Either I have a line pinched or the pump is over running the stock regulator. I only ran it for a few seconds but the fuel pressure was over the 100 psi pressure gauge at idle and mid 90s when I touched the gas.

    I am going to drive it some and see how it does it looks like the Holley was able to keep the AFR close to target. I could PWM the pump but I am already out of outputs. I can easily go to high fan only but when I add the turbo I/O just get worse.

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  • Russell
    replied
    They don't have a lot of rust I think it's all on the underside, I got the 1/4" air grinder out with. Red disc. Man I like the 2 stage compressor! It eats the rust pretty good I think I can get it out I mio not have to treat it. But the seams are the worst.
    Attached Files

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    I'm with SBG - self-etching primer (zinc and acid based) is the best first coat. Not fond of "encapsulating" rust - just sand out as much as possible and let the self-etching eat into it for a primary substrate.

    Dan

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    1) phosphorous zinc is rust converter.... brand name means little. With that said, some come in a more gel-like substance and that can be useful in certain situations
    2) HF $10 guns are made for primer.... I keep a half dozen as back stock ...

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