1968 mustang-first project

[milner351]

Nothing beats the voice of experience - I've never had P heads.

What I have had that I would encourage any and all to stay away from is headers (BBK I think) that had independent flanges for each port, they NEVER sealed after taking them off the first time. I will never have another set of headers that don't have a single flange for all ports - and the thicker the better. That seems to be a point where the cheaper headers show their colors - cheaper headers seem to have thinner gauge tubes and thinner flanges, and as a result don't seal as well or last as long due to rust through.....

From what I've seen - Fox headers that are UN equal length SOMETIMES fit the older cars with shock towers, but the unequal length ones generally interfere with the shock towers in a major way, especially on the earlier 60's cars like my 62 falcon that have super tiny engine compartments.

[Beagle]

I can promise that these don't fit a P head either... almost as funny as the Tri-Y. I mean, sure they physically "fit" - unless by "Fit" you mean that you want a spark plug in the head with a boot on it. I believe that is one of the BBK headers John doesn't like. I don't remember, it may be a MAC. Doesn't matter, I don't like them, but they reinstall fine if you don't have a problem putting a 40" pry bar to them while bolting them into your nice aluminum head. Pucker factor=9.... I would urge some kind of physically locking header bolt like a stage 8.


I believe I might go with 4 into 1 long tubes and safety wire them next time. These things have gone up to 60.00 for 16 now - kinda pricey but probably well worth it. The socket head alone is worth a lot when you have PITA bowl of spaghetti headers.

[87merc]

so Anyone have any magic way of aligning doors to a repop quarter? mines off a 1/4 inch and the door is 1/2 inch out on the bottom front corner

[Huskinhano]

I think I teased John about this already... Take a generic 65 Mustang Tri-Y header and put it up to a P head some time if you want a good laugh. I like the GT40p head but I think I'd do something different for a 331 with a big lift roller cam... but we don't have enough information on goals and parts for me to say anything sooooo...

(Forest Gump voice) That's all I'm gonna say about that
(beagle voice) for now. Ha!

I did a little digging around on www.corral.net, there's a great GT40P thread in the 5.0-5.8 forum. The P heads from what I gather are good for around 380 HP flywheel without too much trouble. A lot of guys there were taking junk yard P motors with 100K,sticking a good cam in them without ever popping the heads off and running in the 11's in a fox.

The stock 5.0 headers will definitely not fit a vintage Mustang, I think the #7 hits the steering box

[milner351]

After market panels have caused many hours of headache and frustration - MP&C's thread on moving metal in masterful ways would be a good place to get an idea on how to fix your panel fit.

[87merc]

i had it close enough to my liking for a driver. it wasn't off much at all maybe a 1/16th inch but now I'm back where i started cause i took the door off to prime and fix the rust.

[87merc]

well i havent been sitting idle with it. i wetsanded and primed last weekend. i need to do it again but i got a good start. started doing brakes, and by god do i hate cutting and flaring brake line.
sshes really coming together now..

[87merc]

wow this is behind.. So, the car runs and drives, is registered and is in paint! i ended up taking it to my homecoming at school, and the next day took out the driveshaft and rear seal in the transmission.. i will post pics tonight

[Beagle]

Running... Excellent!

[Deaf Bob]

Almost 10 pm my time, 12 pm YOUR TIME...
Where's the flipping pictures?

[Dignlif]

A tardy welcome to the site. Just read the thread and glad to hear you've got the car running and in some paint so you can begin enjoying all your hard work. It looks like you've accompished a ton of work on your Mustang. I also look forward to seeing the updated pix.

---Some unsolicited advice on the future engine if/ when that day comes. My '67 started as a 200 ci 6 cylinder car and I've made each progressive transition to a used 289, then rebuilt it, '87 roller 302, then made it into a 347 stroker when the car got back halved. When I hurt the 347 "the second time" I got an old school low compression stroked 351w / 429w (400m crank offset ground) from a friend so I could make it back out to Dragweek.

I have to say, in hindsight I wish I had jumped from the 289 or 302 to a 408w. As John recommended with the 1994 and newer version for roller cam. The reason is that it doesn't cost a whole lot more to build the 408 than a 347 when you're buying the stroker kit and the machine work is a wash. I was under the impression that it would be a ton more expensive but since I bought a new Victor Jr. intake, Victor Jr heads, bigger carb, cam, and MSD distributor for the 347, I wouldn't have spent much more to build a stroked 351w. One advantage you'll gain is that you're starting with an extra 60 ci and the 408 is done with a fairly mild stroke vs the 347 that is at the limit. I realize you'll need the new intake, distributor, headers, and bigger carb but you can reuse the 331 heads if you're happy with them. The difference of jumping from 331 to 408 however will be more significant than just going to a 347.

Aside from all that rambling, you already have a 331 which is nothing to sneeze at so I would just have fun with that for awhile. My guess is that you can do a whole lot of tire roasting and dragstrip funnin' with your current setup. If it's not performing where you expect then have a specialist compare your cam and engine package to the torque converter stall and rear gearing/ tire size to verify you have a good match. Keep in mind that street/ strip is always a compromise when it comes to freeway rpm until you get into having an overdrive.

One last note, a warning actually, that it is never enough haha. In my shop I now have a complete 521 stroked 460 shortblock that will be my next engine when I can save up for the top end and other required parts for conversion to big block. I'm taking my own advice and building on the bigger platform to start with more cubic inches right off the bat. Since I can't reuse anything on the engine, it is winding up more expensive though. With a new sfi bellhousing and converter, I should be good from the trans back...I hope...

[87merc]

Sorry bout the lack of pictures guys, still trying to figure out how to do this from my phone

[Beagle]

Sorry bout the lack of pictures guys, still trying to figure out how to do this from my phone

The easiest answer is to get a photobucket account, upload your pictures there, and then copy and paste them here. The attachment management on here is .. umm.. kind of awkward.

[tardis454]

The easiest answer is to get a photobucket account, upload your pictures there, and then copy and paste them here. The attachment management on here is .. umm.. kind of awkward.

I recommend Imgur, they have a good mobile app that's easy to use.. http://imgur.com/