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Extended Cab '85 C10

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  • Extended Cab '85 C10

    Since I've broken the ice with the inane and obscure (5.7 Olds Diesel modification) it's time for a project that is a little more serious.

    Some time back in 2010 I was daily driving a 2004 Malibu Maxx... nice car, especially for someone my height, but something I was growing bored with quickly as there was nothing I felt was worth doing to it. Browsing Craigslist I came across a rare bird.. a 1985 C10 with a mere 80,000 miles and an extended cab conversion for $4000. I had just finished purchasing my first house and took advantage of the first time home owners rebate that was available at the time. As I grew up around 73-87 trucks and cash to burn I couldn't say no.

    Taking the truck for a test drive proved it was cherry. The truck was an original owner, having had the conversion done when it was brand spanking new and fitted with a stock style interior (many were coach built). During its life of hauling a salesman around, it eventually got a 350HO crate engine from GM Performance Parts to replaced the old and feeble 305 it came with. Behind the engine sat an all original TH350-C and a 10 bolt sporting 2.73 gears. It didn't launch hard, but with 330 hp on tap it could sure stretch out 1st gear; reaching 2nd somewhere north of 60 mph. Needless to say I was hooked and bought the truck off the fellow a few days later.

    Aside from mild rust down in the cab corner, it really was a clean and unmolested truck; I quickly sold off the Malibu to promote this truck to daily status.







    Rear interior space was limited. Due to the frame height, the floor was still the same height (and metal) as the bed. Few people could sit back here comfortably so it mostly serves as storage space.





    Just a Vortec with a 600 CFM Holley, tappet cam and headers.



    I did get rid of the badge, not to my taste.



    For the better part of two years I drove the truck as-is, ultimately putting in a stronger secondary spring and smaller primary jets to get the carburetor dialed in. The previous owner had placed about an inch of fuel tubing over the throttle cable; I couldn't decide if that was to mask a poorly adjusted carburetor (from the crate, I might add) or because his high school grandson drove it for a while. On one hand I missed getting mid 20s for mileage and leather seats I had with the Malibu, but this truck had class.

    But ultimately that boredom settled in again and I wanted something better than 13 mpg so I decided to fuel inject the engine. It was a Vortec after all, fitting it with a carb seemed like going backwards. So what better intake than the best intake never used in a pickup? The TPI!

    After scoring a Scoggin Dickey lower manifold off eBay and a used 96 LT1 harness and PCM off Craigslist, I spent a winter piecing everything together. The long term plan was to use the LT1 PCM to control both the engine and a 4L60E which was to be swapped in at a later date when finances allowed. In typical Vortec fashion, I found the intake gaskets were less than desirable:



    Otherwise the big challenges were finding a water neck that would fit here (Ultimately found a Chevy Astro neck worked):


    And snacking an intake tube over the alternator to an air box from a 99 Silverado.



    Having a LT1 PCM at least allowed it to be in the engine bay.






    And all buttoned up. I was quite pleased with how this turned out.





    I still want to plumb the air box into the fender cavity to keep it from drawing hot air.



    The other big hitch was the distributor. I wasn't going to convert this thing to an Optispark setup so I went about wedging the guts into a TPI distributor. What you see here is the second iteration.

    After machining and soldering a steel sleeve onto the shaft, I cut the center out of the Optispark to reused the wheel mount and bearing. This keeps backlash to a minimum and I found that originally trying to use the bushing resulted in a lot of wear and difficulty in keeping vertical backlash in check.



    A hub was machined and shield added to it to shield the optispark from the flash of the arc and dust from contact erosion.



    A weather pack connector was soldered on and the Optispark sensor housing notched to clear the cap (so future caps won't require modification).



    A new rotor tip was made to allow for a larger timing advance window. Width was calculated based on the original Optispark tip; I think it came out to 0.75".



    At the moment I modified a filter housing to serve as a surge tank; using the mechanical pump to lift fuel into it and an electric pump to draw fuel from it... it doesn't work well. Vapor lock is a big problem because the feed line is looped to the top of the housing; even though it draws from a stand pipe that dips down to the bottom of the filter. Vapor gets trapped in this loop and gives me fits in the summer. The pump is also incredibly noisy in that location. Ultimately I need to find a baffled TBI tank and convert it to work with a high pressure pump. The second tank will then get replumbed to serve as an auxiliary tank.





    After literally hundreds of tunes, I finally got the truck into a reasonably well driving state. I drove it around for about a year until rebuilding a 4L60E and swapping it in. That vastly improved the driveability of the truck; but I still only get 13-16 mpg. Go figure.









    Retrieving a $200 camper.



    Coming up next: Tearing into the cab to repair cracking body filler and finding out what a hack job the conversion was.

  • #2
    Wow, that's a heck of a post !

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    • #3
      Sweet truck porn.............
      That steely eyed look I had behind the wheel was me trying see..........

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      • #4
        neat truck. you're kind of stuck with the solutions you already know if you want to keep dual tanks. That said, the EFI trucks (87) ran the fuel line up the firewall to the motor. Another solution is replace your spare with a 40 gallon 87-91 Suburban tank then lose the side-saddle tanks.
        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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        • #5
          I'm curious about what modifications you plan for that camper ... you gonna chop it to fit the bed ?

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          • #6
            The camper had the floor of the cab-over rebuilt as well as the roof. Length wasn't reduced any because it is cramped enough as it is (doesn't even have a shower or toilet). It sits about 4" shy of the end of the tailgate.

            Tearing off the skin, it was obvious it had leaked for some time.



            It also didn't have much for insulation (black at the bottom is paint, not mold).











            New wood, as well as stronger wood so it could support some tie down anchors.



            New cabin floor.



            Re-profiled the front so it catches less air. Had a fairly minimal impact in interior space.



            Tore the roof off to replace the interior ceiling material as well as replace some wood rot along the length of the camper.



            New fiberglass interior panels installed with new upper rail. Began installing 1" foam insulation.



            Interior shot after installing LED lights (under-cabinet kitchen lightning) set to operate off 12 volts. Total amperage was about 0.3.



            Just about how it sits now. I need to install all the trim to finish it up, then wire in batteries, charger and solar panels. You can see where I used an aluminum brazing rod to patch corrosion holes in the aluminum as well as some cracks.



            Since it lacks a bathroom, it's mostly intended to just be a weekend camper. Like many other projects, it got side lined while bigger fish were fried.

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            • #7
              Nice work !
              No need for a bathroom, that's what Mother Nature is for ...

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              • #8
                Love the truck. If you want better mpg I would look for ways to reduce aero drag and rolling resistance. Lower it a couple inches. Air dam up front. Tear drop bed cover. Make sure brakes and wheel bearings are right. Minimal front toe. Smaller mirrors.
                http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                PB 60' 1.49
                ​​​​​​

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                • #9
                  There were a good handful of these trucks made, I don't think they were hackjobs.
                  Stew K.

                  2007 Chevrolet Trailblazer LS 4x4 4.2 L6 Stock DD
                  1992 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Adopt-A-Whale
                  1988 Chevrolet R30 Custom Deluxe L05 3L80 C&C
                  1974 Chevrolet Corvette 350/TH400 (Garage Art)

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                  • #10
                    There were a number of different shops doing the conversions. This one was by Custom Vehicles International based out of Texas. Externally their work was decent; lots of overlap welds that require a fair bit of filler work, but not much attention to trying to profile the sheet metal to minimize how much filler was necessary. I've only worked on one corner so far, but at one point I was using a block of wood and a sledge to reshape the corner to a larger radius to fix some of the problems.

                    Internally the problem is that they cut apart many of the structures of the cab and made no effort to reinforce them. Things like the attachment of the shoulder harness and the crash bar down near the midline of the cab are flimsy or non-existent. The window frames also loose all rigidity once the windows and body filler are removed, wiggling as much as a half inch without much force. The interior panel of the ceiling was cut and lengthened, but no material put back in to cover the gaping holes. All in all it appeared to be very hasty work and while I'll give them credit that it has lasted 30 years, I'm glad I've never gotten in a wreck.

                    So let's step back to November when I began this project. The trouble was that after sitting outside for a year or so, the body filler was starting to crack and delaminate. Knowing I already had rust in the lower corners of the cab to address and fearing that these cracks would lead to rust on the roof, I decided to tear into it. Starting with a putty knife:



                    But that was too slow and killing my hands so I busted out the angle grinder with a sanding disc:



                    Yet that was dusting the hell out of the shop. I finally settled on a heat gun and putty knife; finding this was the quickest and easiest way to remove filler. What you see here was done in a fraction of the time with the grinder.



                    Like I said, externally wasn't bad, but everything was covered in 1/8" of filler, minimum.



                    Some sections like where the old cab began to curve down left deeper places to fill.



                    Others just weren't formed very well; this being from the top cab corner being over bent and then straightened back out to fit the cab.



                    It's hard to see here, but items like the holes for the drip rails were oddly filled in with filler, rather than welded shut. I'm a bit baffled by that. Overlap welds atop overlap welds also led to other areas requiring a healthy amount of filler.



                    Inside the cab is just crap, pure and simple. This is the driver's side window frame. You can see where I've cut out a piece of steel and added a bend to put rigidity back in the window frame as well as pull it back into shape as it was warped.



                    You can also see the shoulder harness attachment and how the rear of it is attached to absolutely nothing. The cab below the window is also a gaping hole, offering little sound insulation from the outside world. The window "frames" were leaking water, contributing to the cab corner rust.



                    After hammering in the top corner and reinforcing/straightening the frame, it's beginning to take on a natural shape.



                    Maybe I'm going a little overboard with this, but I do want to keep this truck for a while and make it a little more pleasing to drive. A lot of this is also for peace of mind.
                    Last edited by Maxzillian; May 27, 2015, 07:52 AM.

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                    • #11
                      That's awesome! Not sure I've ever saw one before!
                      2013- Murphy, NC Road Side Fan Between Chattanooga & Charlotte 2014- Charlotte-Knoxville-Charleston: 2013 Ford Mustang GT

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                      • #12
                        Love the squares, especially the extended cabs. Looking forward to progress updates on this one.
                        Hauling ass & sucking gas are the best uses for a truck.

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                        • #13
                          Progress has been at a glacial pace, unfortunately, but I did finish a big milestone recently. The driver's side window is officially reinforced and now that I have an idea of what to do, the passenger side should go much quicker.

                          Since the last update, I added shear plates to the top and bottom:




                          This area was the focus of my most concern. Being the B-pillar I absolutely did not trust this to protect me in a crash nor did I trust the shoulder harness to stay anchored.


                          This plate was pretty easy, nothing more than a bend and then opening it at one end plus a little twist to make everything line up.


                          All welded in place, nothing pretty.


                          The top half required a template due to being more of a curve. You can see at the top where I actually cut out the bend with the intent to add a piece of steel in this area to finish boxing it in. If I had a stretcher this wouldn't be necessary; trials with a hammer to stretch the steel didn't go well.


                          I would have liked to make some plates to help box in the holes (lower for the cargo light switch and upper for an interior light), but I didn't think I could do it very cleanly and felt I had added enough strength to make me happy.


                          Onto the other side, this is more of a bend so I started at the middle.


                          Then the bottom; this being the blank I started with.


                          After bending it the wrong way once, then re-bending it another two times to get the leg length correct. I'm really surprised it didn't crack after being flattened that many times. The holes added are for temporary bolts to serve as handles while I fit it up.


                          The bend is gradually opened up towards the bottom to blend it in with the cab.


                          Annnnd welds galore.


                          The top was much the same. In the end this was the finished product:


                          This is the passenger side, but I flipped the image so it'd compare better; just nothing there to speak of. I'm really surprised these cabs didn't buckle under torsion, but then again the rear of the cab has no mounts.


                          A shot of it primered to give a better view of everything.


                          Next up is to fix the rust at the bottom of this side of the cab; then I'll begin work on the passenger side. No promises it won't be another number of months until the next update!

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                          • #14
                            I was wondering if it was something I said
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • #15
                              THAT ought to be stout!

                              Dan

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