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  • More often than not, the issue with timing chains is the guides and tensioners themselves. Relatively easy to do, it's keeping the car in time is the trick. Chains are usually tough enough to withstand riding the tensioner if the plastic is gone.

    It's a shame what has happened with crownvic.net. They were a great resource on all things panther.

    EDIT: I stand corrected. Looks like crownvic.net issues have been resolved. Only took about 3 months. Here is a relevant link to assist you with the job:

    Last edited by Admirall2; October 29, 2018, 11:04 AM.

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    • The other day I started pulling the cowl cover. Tonight I pulled the wipers and all the valve cover bolts, I slipped the left side cover out. Not looking forward to pulling the right side Click image for larger version

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      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
      1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

      PB 60' 1.49
      ​​​​​​

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      • Book says to remove driver's side mount to allow the engine to roll over for removal, or to remove the AC case.

        BS

        Jack up the car and place the front on jackstands. This caused enough sag on mine to allow the valve cover to come off with only minor swearing. I will say it is tight, but doable. The key is pulling forward and rotating up and to the drivers side to get it off. The fuel line definitely needs to be out of the way.

        Use some sort of mild adhesive to keep the gasket in while reinstalling. Don't forget the dab of RTV over the seams of the timing cover head joint.

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        • Sometimes my memory is a tad slow...... PM Victor and he can ask Brian (his son) who now works with Vic but was a Ford dealership mechanic and knows ALL the shortcuts and equally when the shortcuts don't pay off. No doubt he can tell you the easiest way. No doubt Admiral has given good info, too.

          Dan

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          • Originally posted by Admirall2 View Post
            Book says to remove driver's side mount to allow the engine to roll over for removal, or to remove the AC case.

            BS

            Jack up the car and place the front on jackstands. This caused enough sag on mine to allow the valve cover to come off with only minor swearing. I will say it is tight, but doable. The key is pulling forward and rotating up and to the drivers side to get it off. The fuel line definitely needs to be out of the way.

            Use some sort of mild adhesive to keep the gasket in while reinstalling. Don't forget the dab of RTV over the seams of the timing cover head joint.
            Do you remember where you put the jack stand? I did something similar when I changed the valve cover gaskets, but I don't remember where I put them.
            http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
            1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

            PB 60' 1.49
            ​​​​​​

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            • Originally posted by Russell View Post

              Do you remember where you put the jack stand?

              Right at the lift points on the frame itself. Jacked up by the center lift point in the front.

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              • You guys will SCHITZ if you knew just how much stiffening the body really does.
                We remove the pucks and bolt directly to the frame
                Standing on the far rear corner of a bare frame and bouncing will show a foot of flex!
                But yes they are strong cars!

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                • Worked on the Linclon yesterday, messed with the right valve cover. It just was not coming out. Finally went back and looked at the pictures from last time. Last time I did the valve cover gaskets while the intake and coils were off. Pulled the coils out and it practically jumped out of the car. It gives a little room to rotate up away from the heater box.

                  next pain is to pull the power steering pump.
                  http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                  1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                  PB 60' 1.49
                  ​​​​​​

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                  • Good luck with this! I made the mistake of looking online at cars while in Florida - as a result I'm driving home a 2003 Grand Marquis with only 43,500 miles on it! No rust anywhere, I'll be swapping a few parts over (seats, stereo) from Dad's old town car, then I'll be selling that. The updated front end sure makes a difference over the 98!
                    There's always something new to learn.

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                    • Got a little time to work on it yesterday. The holes in the balancer were rusted. Non of the bolts in my balancer puller wanted to start. The Internet said it takes M8 1.25 bolts, every bolt I could find matched the 5/16 20 bolt sizer better but they are very close. I have the HF metric tap and die set. So I tapped the balancer and died the bolts I had cutting the treads a little. Came off without a hitch. getting to that point took a while (wasted time)

                      I finished pulling the cover and was rewarded with the cause of the noise. It's not as bad as I was expecting. Now I just need to get out there and take off the old and busted and put the new stuff in.Click image for larger version

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                      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                      1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                      PB 60' 1.49
                      ​​​​​​

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                      • Glad it isn't too serious in there for you.

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                        • The radio in my head is playing Aretha's "Chain of Fools". "Chain, chain, chain......."

                          Dan

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                          • Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                            Good luck with this! I made the mistake of looking online at cars while in Florida - as a result I'm driving home a 2003 Grand Marquis with only 43,500 miles on it! No rust anywhere, I'll be swapping a few parts over (seats, stereo) from Dad's old town car, then I'll be selling that. The updated front end sure makes a difference over the 98!
                            Any pics, John?

                            Dan

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                            • Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                              Good luck with this! I made the mistake of looking online at cars while in Florida - as a result I'm driving home a 2003 Grand Marquis with only 43,500 miles on it! No rust anywhere, I'll be swapping a few parts over (seats, stereo) from Dad's old town car, then I'll be selling that. The updated front end sure makes a difference over the 98!
                              Nice! If you can find them, P71 swaybars will surprise you!
                              Nice cars. Wish I can find a good P71 to drive.. Son loves his

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                              • Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post

                                Nice! If you can find them, P71 swaybars will surprise you!
                                Nice cars. Wish I can find a good P71 to drive.. Son loves his
                                Best bang for the buck is P71 front (easy to find) and then a HPP/Maurader rear (not so easy).

                                I got both of my from the local yard for about $40 bucks for the pair.

                                Most of the rear bars in the yards are 15-17mm in diameter. You need to find the 21mm bar.

                                Rear bars are pretty much the same from 98-11

                                Front bars need to stay with the generations (98-02, 03-11) P71 bars are 29.5mm in diameter. HPP are 27mm or so. Base are 26mm

                                Sorry for the info dump, waiting on a device to reboot to verify it's software upgrade.

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