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1985 Fiero - Last Hope

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  • #16
    The only way this car should be done is YOUR way!
    Nobody else matters!

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    • #17
      Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
      Back when man fist stood upright but well after the dinos all died out I worked at a corner gas station in my home town, One of our regular customers had an early Fiero with a SBC....If memory serves it as a 305...boy was that car neat...and it hauled the mail too. even had it juiced....

      Anyway, while we are waiting for Fiero updates why not regale us with stories and pictures of motorcycle builds? I for one would like to see those...digging what I see in your profile pic....

      I'll second the request for motorcycle pics.
      I'm probably wrong

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      • #18
        Third

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        • #19
          I remember test driving a Fiero when they were brand new! (damn, i'm getting old) I drove my daily driver 4 speed GTO to the Pontiac dealer to check out the Fiero. 1984,red,5 speed. awesome speakers in the head rests. I must have stalled it 3 or 4 times, the sales guy asks "do you even know how to drive a stick?" the hydraulic clutch, and the total lack of pedal feedback really messed me up! I was even thinking of trading the goat in, but it wasn't worth anything
          30 years later, I still have the goat, and Fiero's are 500$
          See my build at: www.1932auburnsedan.com

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          • #20
            Alright, here's my motorcycle build link for the curious:



            I'm sure I could have built seven bikes in the years it's taken me to construct this one, but it was a labor of love and, hey, I work full time and have kids. If I could build three such bikes in a lifetime though, I would consider it good.

            Fiero Updates:

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            Painted the tank and installed the sending unit. Needed to cut a baffle out to accommodate the different sized level float.

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            Installed said tank into said Fiero. Looks good, and nobody will ever see it.

            Headed out of town on a business trip. Decided to cover the shifter knob with leather in the hotel room. The cleaning people are going to think I'm into some weird stuff when they see the scraps in the trash.

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            Kinda has a shrunken head feel to it, which goes with the build IMO.

            My dad gave me his old Fiat racing steering wheel from back in the SCCA days. This will definitely be installed, as it is ten times less sticky than the stock one.

            Click image for larger version

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            Witness!

            Oh yeah, and I got it running. Rough, but running



            Does anyone know any 'common issues' with the Iron Duke for surging at idle?

            Thanks for looking folks! In appreciate the input and anecdotes.

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            • #21
              Not sure how that Fiat wheel was mounted but I can recommend a removable wheel if possible. Had one on my Camaro and have one on the race truck (Mutt) and it's really a convenience. I get my steering wheel stuff from Speedway Motors. The smaller hub welds onto a GM column pretty well but make sure everything in there works first or you'll have to grind the adaptor back off to fix it.

              Sounds like it needs the typical carb rebuild and tune-up stuff.

              Dan
              Last edited by DanStokes; October 24, 2015, 10:03 AM.

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              • #22
                I just have tilt columes in all my cars .
                Previously HoosierL98GTA

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                • #23
                  I think the only 2.5 duke we ever had was a fuel injected sunbird my daughter had . Im not going to be of much help . She totaled it before we could have any problems .
                  Previously HoosierL98GTA

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                  • #24
                    So you're saying the Duke can outlast the car...good to know :o)

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                    • #25
                      That's fascinating on the gas tank. Never realized where they were mounted on a Fiero. Probably the safest place on any car. The car would literally have to smashed flat into a manhole cover before it would get touched.

                      BTW, build it the way you want. Unless you are getting paid to build it by someone, then don't make yourself miserable making it the way others want. The object is to have a car that you see sitting there that gets you excited. That you can't wait to drive again. That won't happen if you listen to those guys who all tell "If that was my car, I would do this....."
                      BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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                      • #26
                        Work progresses! I cleaned up the intake manifold and did a good scrub of the throttle body. The EGR was dumping all kinds of hot nasty into the place where I only want clean air and cold gasoline, so I pulled the EGR and capped it off with a plate I fabbed out of some 3/8" aluminum I had lying about. Not a really good shot of the cover (I know we all like seeing custom fab stuffP), but it was fast and ugly (much like my goals for this car) so it's not much to look at.
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                        All shiny...ish. Shiny enough at any rate.

                        Just for funzies, I pulled the valve cover and, oh boy, I wish I hadn't. It was...gooey. I scooped out as much of the black stuff as I could, then put the cover back on and pretended I'd never seen it. I'm thinking I could run some sort of oil additive, get the engine hot a few times, then change oil and filter.
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                        Does anyone have any experience with Marvel Mystery Oil as an oil additive? My goal is for it to be a sort of solvent to break old crap loose and then discontinue using it. I generally don't trust the sort of things that are added to gas/oil. Gas and oil should be able to work on their own. But my engine needs a helping hand and I'm working to avoid a rebuild at this point. (probably next winter for that job).

                        Stay tuned for steering wheel fun!
                        Last edited by Demoto; November 3, 2015, 07:57 AM.

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                        • #27
                          if you really want to clean it, put in ATF with your motor oil.... be warned, though, that you'll need to change the oil filter a bunch. To get the really big crap first, though, run parts-washer solvent (the bad stuff) or diesel through the motor with the oil drain plug removed. With all of that said, it's a pennzoil motor and a pennzoil motor that didn't get its oil changed often enough... poor maintenance rarely gets fixed by just a thorough cleaning. Quite honestly, I'd run decent motor oil in it and find another motor to rebuild then put in. That one will lead to tears sooner or later because eventually the oil will plug the drain-back holes and starve the crank of oil... it happens to all pennzoil motors after 120k miles...

                          just to be clear, I utterly loathe pennzoil.
                          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                          • #28
                            Looks better than the Olds I did back in high school. What a mess....The owner of the service station I worked at would put me and this old mechanic at one of his slow garages on the weekends. That tech and I would go thru cars that the boss would buy to flip. Often times we did intake and valve cover gaskets to clean up the top of the engine. When we would find engines like this we would take a qt of kerosene and dump it in the oil and warm it up....then add a new filter, rinse and repeat...worked like a champ.
                            If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                            • #29
                              Diesel with no drain plug and filter..
                              Then pour a little over the valve train to flush the rest on down.. Look for cleanish diesel coming out the drain.. (won't be very clean)
                              Do not use solvents.. It strips oil where you need it.. Things like rocker fulcrums, push rod tips, cam lobes..
                              Did my 77 chevy flatbed that way with 150,000 miles on it, it went another 200,000 before I hauled one load too many, too heavy.. Drove it hard!

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                              • #30
                                Yuck. Seafoam or Marvel Oil in the crankcase. Run it a couple hours of driving then change. Do this before next few oil changes.
                                BS'er formally known as Rebeldryver

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